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H23 swap

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    H23 swap

    Junkyard is having a sale, 40% off. There's a H23 NON-VTEC in a 92 lude' right by me.

    As far as Ive read, all i need to swap my f22a1 with the h23 is a P14 ECU, axles, trans?
    Is there anything else ill need to swap?
    Thanks!

    #2
    The ecu is the only item you should need to get this engine running. Well and a distributor for it, as you can't swap your SOHC distributor onto the DOHC. The DOHC distributor has a longer ear to mount it on the bottom.
    MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

    Comment


      #3
      You don’t even need the transmission, though it would be more fun. You use your Accord axles.
      Read through the h22 swap procedure in the swaps section of this site. The procedure will be the same minus the vtec wiring.






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        #4
        Oh cool. Sounds even better!

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          #5
          The Big Plans

          Engine has been acquired. For a first time pull, definitely a "big" job. 4 1/2 hours later though, its in my garage.

          So, i know i could throw an H22 VTEC head on. H23A1 closed deck.
          BUT i would like to go another route. And to make sure I have everything good and going to get it to work, Any information i might be wrong on would help!

          **GOAL IS 180-200hp
          Plans:
          ITBs w/ a chipped p72
          Stage 1 N/A Camshafts
          Stiffer valve springs (?)
          All new seals/gaskets
          Water pump/timing belt/etc

          Keeping accord transmission until i can afford an LSD H trans. (would be nice since i'm lowered too)
          *Head has been to machine shop.*
          Is there anything else i might be missing for a simple build?

          Comment


            #6
            I’m on my phone, so I’ll just respond with quick bullet points. I don’t mean to sound rude!

            The. H22 head swap tends to be unreliable anyway, so you’re smart to keep the h23a1 complete.

            ITBs can be problematic regarding tuning and filtration. If you go that route, fabricating a plenum to enclose the ITBs so a filter element can be included would be the way to go. Overall, the gains likely won’t justify the cost. It would be really cool, though!

            “Stage 1” means little unless you specify a brand. But I get your point. A mild cam upgrade.
            Stiffer springs may not be necessary depending on the cam specs. Check with the cam manufacturer to confirm.

            Seals, gaskets, water pump, etc... very smart.

            I would avoid a factory LSD trans. Get a non-LSD trans and install an aftermarket unit. The aftermarket units are superior to the 20-25 year old factory pieces, and repairing/replacing them is far more cost effective. No H/F equipped car got LSD in the US, so you’d need to source replacement parts from overseas. The factory LSD units are much larger than the aftermarket pieces, and the trans is built to accommodate them. An aftermarket LSD unit will not fit in a transmission made for a factory LSD.






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              #7
              Thank you deev,
              I know and understand ITB's are sort of a pain when it comes to tuning and getting it to run right. Did plan on running a filter as it would be a daily. Still learning how to weld so that would be something to maybe try out
              Ill have to look into camshafts and specifications a little more to determine which cam to go with.


              With your transmission point, if I got a non-lsd h trans, an aftermarket should fit? As you stated factory LSD's are bigger.

              Comment


                #8
                Yeah. Aftermarket units are made for the non-LSD cases. If you get the transmission that came on the H23A1, you’ll have the shortest gears available. You can get a good LSD from Quaife or MFactory. Even OBX makes a pretty solid LSD.






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                  #9
                  Sadly the trans that was on it was auto. Don't plan on that swap anytime soon
                  Thank you for all the info deev!
                  One more question. I can tell this block was just worked on, its clean, head looks brand new and everything (only looked at head yet) being springs cams etc look clean and new. Planned on pulling the head to check over everything.
                  Is it even worth opening up? Want to, to be sure. Don't want to as im still pretty new to mechanics. I trust myself to be capable but it'd be a lot of work for nothing

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Bah, yeah. No auto!

                    You could do a compression test to see if the engine is healthy inside. As long as that checks out, there’s probably no reason to open it up. Does it turn freely by hand with the plugs removed?






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                      #11
                      Ill have to try when i get the chance to get it on this engine stand. Gotta go pickup trans bolts as i left them at the yard
                      Ill keep you posted!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Alright, i am back with the motor in the air.
                        Cam gear snapped off camshaft. NOT my doing. spun a couple times with it still
                        "Attached". Engine looking fresh and it being in an auto i'm feeling they put money into the motor refreshing it (see images) and then the cam gear broke and they junked it.
                        WORST Case / BEST case what could have happened? bent valves on one side?
                        When i was cranking it by hand when it moved it moved freely I didn't have much resistance.

                        (note for pictures i have not even touched water pump / belts. those were all new from yard.)
                        https://ibb.co/s10HdB6
                        https://ibb.co/qsw8LM4
                        https://ibb.co/2cbX0fC
                        Any help would be great, Thanks!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Bent valves are very likely. Both sides. Pistons may be scored as well, which would cause hot spots, and detonation.
                          FRM sleeves mean you’re going to be limited in piston options. Hopefully the sleeves aren’t damaged.






                          Comment


                            #14
                            Well it’s definitely getting opened up this week then. Ah oh well better safe then sorry I suppose

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The good thing is that you now have the option to build it however you want!






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