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Old 04-19-2015, 06:04 PM   #81
cp[mike]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarrett View Post
I changed gears suspension-wise and bought a new set of Koni yellows. Mike unintentionally peer-pressured me into it with his new shiny ones.


I'm curious though why the Integra 4040 wouldn't work for you? Because of the 4-piston fronts? How would keeping the stock CB7 ABS be any different in proportions as compared to the integra valve?

Anyway if you really want to bias extra toward the front, you can use a manually adjustable proportioning valve. You would lose the redundancy split of having front right/back left combined on a single port, both rears would need to be run from the same port on the master cyl via a splitter after the valve. But this would allow you to dial in exactly the proportions that you are looking for.



http://www.wilwood.com/mastercylinde...dervalves.aspx

I had used their simple single rear adjustment valve on my truck, and it worked excellently to reduce the rear bias.

Last edited by cp[mike]; 04-19-2015 at 06:06 PM.
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:33 PM   #82
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I'm using this same prop valve myself. I built all the lines myself to eliminate ABS using it.
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:25 PM   #83
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I need that in my life. With the 11.1" rotors and ITR calipers on the front of the car, the bias is WAAAY towards the rear and makes initial pedal travel pretty soft.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:30 PM   #84
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My logic with the braking system was to retain a built-in safety feature present with the ABS equipment as there was no ideal proportioning valve to accommodate all of the many variables I have now thrown at the braking system. I did not consider an adjustable valve, and that would have been the best course. However, this way I can drive the car and see how well the system performs when pushed. If the bias or balance is out of whack, I can always remove the ABS system at that point. The only money I've spent on retaining it so far is the cost of TL front wheel speed sensors and having to repurchase the rears that I threw away.

Anyway, there's been a bit of an update in my life. I moved to Denton, TX this past month (north of Dallas) to work on the I-35E expansion project. I work in civil construction so I move every so often. I've been able to stay pretty close to home in Bryan/College Station for the most part, but now I'm 4 hours away. The place I'm in has a garage and I plan to do work on the Accord here, but first I need to get it here. It's still sitting in my parent's driveway with no front suspension. Hopefully I'll have some time this coming weekend to get the suspension sorted and get the car rolling. That way I can get it here to do the swap and all of the other things it needs. That heater core still needs to be swapped and I'm not looking forward to it.

My CL is headed to the body shop in the next few weeks to get the body work and primer done on it, so there should be a nice spot opening up to get some Accord work done. Until then, I'm restricted to the things that I can do here without the car. On Sunday afternoon I spent some time watching Star Wars and delooming my spare engine harness. There are a few broken leads that I will completely rewire as well as run bigger wire for grounds, add VTEC wiring, eliminate IAB wiring and change the pigtails on the injectors for the RDX units. Once everything is adjusted to the correct length I'll run woven sleeve over all parts of the harness and heat shrink the ends before the connectors. I wish someone sold a harness "kit" that included a couple of ring terminals and about 2 feet of various heat shrink tubing sizes and 20 feet of various woven nylon sleeving. Buying it all in bulk to do one harness is expensive.

Not much to look at.

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Last edited by Jarrett; 07-28-2017 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:11 PM   #85
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I need to do the same thing with my wire harness. Its amazing how dirty it is. Could you snap me a picture of external wire loom. Specifically the yellow wire and the black/yellow wire. The harness that I have is cut and I am not sure where the two wires lead too.
It does suck not having the car close by to work on.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:41 PM   #86
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Jarrett

You mentioned RDX injectors..how are you getting them to stay snug on the fuel rail? And obviously since it has to be tuned..what are you going to be running for a management system?

I know Rywire and KTuned make the aluminum spacers for the B Series fuel rail to run those injectors..I just didn't think anyone made ones for the H22.

Henry
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:51 PM   #87
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Grumpy, I'll do it when I get home later tonight.

Henry, I have a Euro R manifold and a Rosko fuel rail specifically designed for the RDX injectors. The rail comes with spacers for the injectors bosses in the runners. I'm afraid I have no experience with trying to mount them in a standard H22A manifold.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:04 PM   #88
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A lot of time has passed since the last time I worked on this car. It's the same excuse as it always is with me being far away from where the car is stored. This Texas heat hasn't helped matters much, either. But you didn't come here to listen to me excuse myself, so here's what was done.

One of the things that held up the swap was a bad heater core. While I don't NEED the engine out, it's certainly preferred. Doubly so because I have to remove the evaporator to remove the heater core. I really had no desire to break open the A/C as it was perfectly good R12 from a Pacific NW car where they hardly use the A/C. Ultimately I gave in. I'm someone who will take every advantage of a circumstance to tackle multiple projects at once. Probably to a fault. Since I was going to have the heater core out, I prepared myself for a few other projects as well.

I pulled the blower motor, the evaporator box and finally, the heater core. Luckily I had the other '93 EX coupe with a heater core that looked brand new. That car was from here down South and the heater core almost never gets used. Before I could reinstall it, though, I needed to take care of all of the wiring I want to do behind the dash. One of those projects was the SRS harness and control unit.

I had planned to swap in the dual airbag control unit and harness anyway, but looking at the original control unit, it's probably best I did anyway. The leaking heater core had rusted the case of the control unit and it looked to be in bad shape. The new one was a pretty straightforward install, but I did have to cut the foam firewall padding in a couple of locations.











Another item on the agenda was to remove a lot of components from the engine bay that would no longer be used. I didn't get everything done, but I tackled most of it. My girlfriend helped out quite a bit here, too, as she's tiny and able to get into small places. That and she just really enjoys helping.


She's very inconspicuous.




I get angry very easily when working on cars and she still comes out to help. That's a keeper in my books.




Before:




After:




The EVAP canister still needs to be removed, but that's mostly it. The battery is going back into the trunk and the black box will remain off as well. I'm probably going to be okay if things are a little messy right now just because I want the engine back in the car to drive it. There are so many other areas of this car that I want to give attention that I just haven't been able to because it's restricted to my driveway.

Next on the agenda is getting the non-ABS master cylinder and lines in along with the 4040 proportioning valve. Once that's in I'll continue with the front suspension and Brembo caliper installation.

As a bonus, here's another one of my recent weekend projects. 13.5 hours in the smoker at 190-degrees makes for one amazing slab of meat. I know the US has good food all over, but where else can you find a brisket in a driveway?



This bad boy was 15 lbs. wet. There are a couple of things I want to do a little differently next time so it may not be long before I have another one to post. It takes a while to eat that much meat, though.
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Last edited by Jarrett; 08-05-2017 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 08-11-2015, 10:57 PM   #89
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Keep up the good work! How's the new construction project going?

Let me know if you want to unload any of the ABS parts you removed.
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Old 08-16-2015, 02:48 PM   #90
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Thanks! The new project is going okay. I'm in a different role these days. I was a field engineer over all of the roadway/flatwork paving when I was in Houston. These days I'm running concrete plants. I rarely see the field work unless I intentionally go out there to break up the day's monotony. Hopefully that changes soon, but I doubt it. Until I can find someone to fill the role I'm in now, I'm pretty much stuck. I spend a good 10 hours a day in front of various spreadsheets and the other 2 or 3 in meetings. And yes, the ABS components are yours if you want them. I can put them in a box and send them to you, or I can hold on to them until the next time you're in Texas.
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Old 08-28-2015, 03:14 PM   #91
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looking great!

From experience on my own wagon. Do not use the EX brake booster with a non ABS master cylinder. I went through 2 40/40 prop valves. The bigger brake booster just didnt work well with the pressure to the non ABS BMC. Only use the proper BMC with the proper brake booster.

I ended up putting a LX brake booster and the non ABS BMC to fix it. However this past year I went back to the EX Brake booster with the ABS BMC on my wagon. My wagon is an EX btw.
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:03 PM   #92
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Well, I planned to get a lot of work done this weekend, but I ran into a few hiccups. I got my FFC billet top hats in the mail a while back and bought some Ground Control sleeves for my Konis. I also had a new steering rack and some bushings I needed to install, so I figured I'd make a weekend out of it. Well, I procrastinated like crazy and ended up with only a few hours to work with. I was left with a few questions, some frustrations and a list of things to buy to try and get the same things done the next time I work on this car.

For starters, here are all of the parts for my new suspension set up. The bags contain front dust covers that I can't use because the billet top hats won't fit over them. Kind of a bummer, but I'll just try to find some universal ones that fit. My rear boots were crushed in storage, so I'll need to buy a new pair before I proceed with the rears. I'm pretty excited about getting these on the car. A little silly, though, as I didn't even drive a mile on the Tein Super Streets. Those will be going up for sale as soon as this is all on the car. I already have someone interested.




Next up on the list is bushings I received from Hardrace. I ordered spherical bearings for the rear lower shock mounts as I couldn't find the urethance bushings available anywhere. And I went with their rack bushing kit, too, as I was installing a new steering rack. Word of warning: don't buy the rack bushings. I'm pretty sure they're just a Civic/Integra kit. The mounting inserts would not fit into the holes as they were too large and the wrap-around bushing for the passenger side won't completely wrap around the entire circumference. I purchased an Energy Suspension kit for the Civic/Integra application a few months ago just to experiment with it and the same issues were present there. I assumed a kit advertised for the Accord application would have done the trick. I was wrong. I didn't get around to even trying the rear lower shock mount bushings because of time. Here are a few pictures that show the fitment. I ended up just using two of the four provided bolt bushings as that's all I could get c-clamped into place. I used the circular bushing as well.









You can't really tell that well, but the bushings are mushrooming here.



Notice how this bushing doesn't completely wrap around.





I didn't get the subframe back up into place, but that will happen next time I'm in town. I'd prefer to get the non-ABS hard lines in place before that happens. I'm getting those from one of my parts cars that still has the engine in it. But I should be able to get those in a couple of weeks.

I messed up one of my new Timken wheels bearings on the press, so I ordered a new NSK bearing to replace it. Pretty annoying to mess up a $40 bearing, but whatever. Anyway, my front suspension should be back together in a month.

In the meantime, here's another project I'm working on. It's an adaptation of a previous attempt I made trying to merge a '01-'05 Civic steering column with the CB column. The construction was too different to mate so I looked for other alternatives. The '04-'08 TSX was closer to the CB column's length, so I went with it. If I can get this one mated it will allow me these benefits:

- Usage of '01-'05 Civic combination switch
- '04-'08 TSX steering wheel
- rubber-bushed joint
- collapsible column shaft
- manually-telescoping shaft

This is on the back burner for now, though. All of the wiring has been done, but it's going to require adding some mounting brackets to the dash frame. Getting the engine and suspension installed is more important. Hopefully we'll have a few more updates in a couple of weeks.
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Last edited by Jarrett; 08-05-2017 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:47 PM   #93
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What brand rack did you wind up going with? I have to do mine soon, but ive heard a lot of people having problems with remanned racks
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Old 10-12-2015, 05:02 PM   #94
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I don't remember the brand. It's an Advance Auto reman. I needed inner tie rod ends and boots, and this seemed to be the most cost-effective way of fixing everything. I returned a rack from a parts car a while back, so the one that came in this car is being kept. It's really not in bad shape, so I may buy some OEM inner tie rods and boots and fix it up for the future.
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If you see any threads or posts of mine whose picture links are broken (there are a lot), please send me a link to the thread. I will gladly fix them. I don't see it as a fruitless burden. This site has helped give me quite a bit of my drive and passion for cars, and fixing my picture links is the least I can do to give back.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:37 AM   #95
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Still working on your ride? You made some great progress, good too see another Texas CB getting some love.
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Old 02-18-2016, 11:26 PM   #96
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Yes, I am working on it still. But the only progress that's been done is wiring related that I don't have pictures of. I pulled the chassis harness from my previous Accord and have begun stripping down all of the unnecessary wiring from it. I'll lengthen the wires I need in order to tuck everything into the fenders as well as add a few wires in the cabin for the PFMs and variable intermittent wipers. I've done a combination switch swap, too, but the wiring for that is already done.

My next project in this step if to have Wire-Worx make me a Stage 3 engine harness. The only problem is they say that they need a core for the Accords and I already cut mine up. I've labeled all of the plugs, so hopefully I can just send them the cut plugs with labels and that will be good.

The reason I haven't really one anything other than this is that I've had lots of stuff come up with my CL and my girlfriend's Outback XT. I'm in the home stretch with the Outback and gearing up for an engine swap with the CL. Once those are done I can get back to the Accord.
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If you see any threads or posts of mine whose picture links are broken (there are a lot), please send me a link to the thread. I will gladly fix them. I don't see it as a fruitless burden. This site has helped give me quite a bit of my drive and passion for cars, and fixing my picture links is the least I can do to give back.
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:09 PM   #97
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Looking good on the suspension set up! I myself went with some used Koni Sports and Ground Controls that I'll be installing today or tomorrow. What are the spring rates of your GC's?

Good luck with all of those projects. You definitely have your hands full right now!
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Old 02-19-2016, 12:32 PM   #98
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Was this piece hard to take out? My threads are stripped from the last person who replaced my rack before I owned the car, I had to make bigger thread holes in order to hold mine in, it kept popping loose.

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Old 02-19-2016, 01:25 PM   #99
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I've removed that whole piece before (I bent the subframe where the control arm attaches).

It is not hard at all to remove. Time consuming? Yes. But, definitely not hard.

Plus it makes working on the rack so much easier.
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Old 02-19-2016, 02:34 PM   #100
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It was fairly effortless for me, but the engine was already out of the car. All you need to do is remove all of the hose and line holders, disconnect the steering coupler, disconnect the outer tie rods from the knuckles and the 4 long bolts that hold the subframe in. If the engine is still in the car, you'll have to take the through bolt out of the mount, but otherwise would be the same.
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