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    engine shuts off when braking

    When reaching traffic or road bump, I hit the brakes, idle dips violently and engine shuts off.

    - battery is fine
    - no CEL nor "S" blinking
    - replaced eacv and resistance 13 ohm within specs
    - fitv plunger tightened
    No idea why, drives fine only does it when braking.

    Any logical thoughts please?

    #2
    Hey bud, did you happen to take care of your transmission issues? kinda stabbing in the dark, but it sounds reminiscent of the torque converter lockup solenoid. Just as if it were a manual trans and you didnt depress the clutch when coming to a stop, it stalls the motor. I had a corsica that did the same thing. Next would be a brake booster vacuum leak, if it were leaking and idle were adjusted to compensate for it, when depressing the brake thered be too much air getting in after the throttle body stalling it.. sorry I cant be more helpful.

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      #3
      Thx for replying, already replaced my nc sensor and the code disappeared back then so it isnt related.

      Also checked the booster hoses no leaks.. been reading an old thread for JTEK24 but after 3 pages the thread has reached a tend end wirh the last guess between ignition switch, ignition timing and dizzy

      I dont know desperate and crazy

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        #4
        10-06-2012 12:10 PM by&#160;bandjstoneRe: 90 Honda Accord stalls & shuts off when braking or driving downhill (@ < half tank)
        there are holes in the tube that connects the pump to the fuel hanger assy. there is a metal tube the pump connects to and it sounds like it is sucking air


        Read this on hontatech, do you know the location or where on the repair manual?
        Last edited by EsperHamid; 08-05-2014, 03:39 PM.

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          #5




          maybe that little piece of rubber between the pump and the output parts..

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            #6
            and another one:
            Resolved.Fuel pump screen was dislocated and floating around in tank. Put on new on = good to go.
            It sure was odd but glad it was a cheap fix.I am guessing when the lever got low enough the submerged filter banged into the pickup on braking, it without the filter is sucked in too much air. Not sure but I am happy now.
            What is the thickness of that hose? Do I need to drop the fuel tank ?
            Last edited by EsperHamid; 08-06-2014, 04:33 AM.

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              #7
              gonna drop the tank half an hour from now, but one more hint I noticed, on the highway, I notice rpm slips, bursts, 2500==>2300 then back 2500 ... same when I reach 3000 ==> 2800 then back 3000 and no CELs

              any hints ?

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                #8
                Originally posted by EsperHamid View Post
                gonna drop the tank half an hour from now, but one more hint I noticed, on the highway, I notice rpm slips, bursts, 2500==>2300 then back 2500 ... same when I reach 3000 ==> 2800 then back 3000 and no CELs

                any hints ?
                would getting a fuel pressure gauge be easier? hook it up measure your readings and rev it in the drive, maybe start rocking it to simulate fuel sloshing around..i know a tank drops no little thing..good luck

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                  #9
                  finally, it got dark and I managed to take out the tank, will look at it tomorrow morning. Well yes you could make fun of me, but always haunted by that Flare Line Nut !! ... yes all this time trying to loosen it.

                  it wouldn't even budge and no I couldn't find a crow like wrench and the nut walls got damaged, so I decided to cut that line and will fit a rubber hose with clamps when I re-install it like I did when I removed the fuel filter before.

                  question is, will it leak ?! like when the car runs and we're in summer would the rubber lose pressure especially that this line is called "high pressure fuel line".
                  Last edited by EsperHamid; 08-06-2014, 01:54 PM.

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                    #10
                    Getting, a gauge isn't possible, all the ones I saw, wouldn't fit and couldn't find accessories ( fittings ) in our market... the gauges we have are poorly built, I don't trust them.

                    concerning revving it, the funny thing is that it starts fine, it reaches normal op temp, I rev it to 4500 while in park and the engine works just fine !! .... I am having these problems when driving,

                    here is a summary of what is happening:

                    - reaching traffic or road bump, idle dips violently, car shuts down, power still there and radio still functions, blower too.
                    - hitting the highway, RPM slips as stated before
                    - sometimes, it starves then pulls back again
                    - no CELs !! EGR valve newly replaced not 1 year and functions fine.
                    Last edited by EsperHamid; 08-06-2014, 01:55 PM.

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                      #11
                      is this normal ?


                      do you guys notice anything unusual ?!



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                        #12
                        feedback, someone, anyone ?

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                          #13
                          I would actually check your grounds, especially on the passenger side on the thermostat housing.

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                            #14
                            will do that thanks, is it normal for the big hose on the tank to have a small hose in it ?

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                              #15
                              yes, it's the air release for the fill nozzle.

                              Click for my Member's Ride Thread
                              Originally posted by Stephen Fry
                              'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
                              Eye Level Media - Commercial & Automotive Photography: www.EyeLevelSTL.com

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