help finding more f23a1 block/f22a6 head info

[linkcb7]

I'm really interested in this swap. Mostly because I'd like to build my cb7 with as much "honda" parts as possible. Or at least before I even think about a turbo.
Some of the info that I have gather myself includes.
The f23 block has an extra oil or coolant port? (So hondabond to plug it up?)
Use the f22a head gasket.
The f23 can gear is smaller so stick with the f22a timing belt.
Ik that there was an oil line or something that the f22a has, that I need to put it on the f23 block. Just forgot what it is called.

I've searched multiple times trying to find a good thread that talked about all of this but others have said that others that have done this, haven't put diy posts out like other swappers have.

If there is a thread that could help me out, feel free just add it and I'll be appriative of it.. if not, any help that members can give me will also be appreciated.

I will be pulling the block from a junkyard so I will be rebuilding it, port & polish the head also.
My car is a daily at the moment. But I will buy another Honda when I start building my car.

[8ball]

I just recently saw some ones members rides thread that mention that a specific bolt for the drivers side mount is too short and will strip when using the f23a bolt (for the bracket/mount).

Also the same guy I think or maybe on a different thread mentioned that using the F23A pulley was not feasible but none of this I can confirm how ever.

Another thing to mention from the internet posts I've read is that the distributor in OUR cars has the angle sensor inside as oppsed to on the crank pulley or something to that nature not %100 sure on what I read. But either way you will end up using an obd1 distributor; obd1 manifold and likely a manifold from a CD chassis or aftermarket.

As far as using the SOHC head on the F23A do some reading.

[STREET-SPEC]

That bolt part was in jdm92accorn's page. He knows about the f23 block.

[linkcb7]

That bolt part was in jdm92accorn's page. He knows about the f23 block.

I found his thread.. he's got a good set up, thanks for the help

[Accrdwgnguy]

Stock to Stock, the F23A1 head outflows the F22A6 head.

[linkcb7]

Stock to Stock, the F23A1 head outflows the F22A6 head.

.. and it might, but I'd like to keep my h23 throttle body and plenum w/ double iabs. I'll be boring all of that out and the head when I do the block swap. Make the head 87 to make the block n all that good stuff..
The only thing left that I'm needing more funds for is getting someone to tune the car for me. And get a p06 ecu since I'm non VTEC obviously.

It would be nice I'm one of the cb7 professionals did a write up guid or a parts list this will be my first build.

[Mishakol129]

.. and it might, but I'd like to keep my h23 throttle body and plenum w/ double iabs. I'll be boring all of that out and the head when I do the block swap. Make the head 87 to make the block n all that good stuff..
The only thing left that I'm needing more funds for is getting someone to tune the car for me. And get a p06 ecu since I'm non VTEC obviously.

It would be nice I'm one of the cb7 professionals did a write up guid or a parts list this will be my first build.

Its not a hard build at all, you just got to use mainly F22a block parts. My setup right now is a F22b dohc head with a F23a block. Pt6 ECU too, no custom stuff. It runs the car very well. Pulls way better than the F22a ever did.

Like someone else on here said, you gotta use the F22a timing side mount bolts, as well as most other parts from the F22a engine. F22a timing belt+water pump. The harmonic balancer is an issue as you can't use the F23 one whih has markings for the ignition timing. You will need to cut a slot in the block because there is none on the F23 block. I didn't do this yet though, I have my ecu doing the ignition timing for me.

Basically its not hard at all and is a very streetable swap. Add on a balance shaft elimination kit (which is what I have) and it makes great power. You don't even need a tune necessarily.

This is the kind of build where it makes a turbo obsolete if you know what you're doing. My wagon does 0-60 in about 7 seconds. Just as fast as an H22a.

[linkcb7]

Its not a hard build at all, you just got to use mainly F22a block parts. My setup right now is a F22b dohc head with a F23a block. Pt6 ECU too, no custom stuff. It runs the car very well. Pulls way better than the F22a ever did.

Like someone else on here said, you gotta use the F22a timing side mount bolts, as well as most other parts from the F22a engine. F22a timing belt+water pump. The harmonic balancer is an issue as you can't use the F23 one whih has markings for the ignition timing. You will need to cut a slot in the block because there is none on the F23 block. I didn't do this yet though, I have my ecu doing the ignition timing for me.

Basically its not hard at all and is a very streetable swap. Add on a balance shaft elimination kit (which is what I have) and it makes great power. You don't even need a tune necessarily.

This is the kind of build where it makes a turbo obsolete if you know what you're doing. My wagon does 0-60 in about 7 seconds. Just as fast as an H22a.

Good deal. I was thinking about using the non VTEC h23 head for the dohc.. but I'm not sure since its my first build.

[GhostAccord]

I'd like to see a 1/4 mile time slip on that one... 0-60 in a wagon with a stock untuned engine and EMS would be a stretch. Videos of the dash don't count ether, I have a vid of my 120whp 3500lb SUV dash/speedo doing 0-60 in 5.7 seconds...... down hill

Power gains in a swap such as this would be very little without a proper tune. The stock ECU will not gain you that much more power than the stock engine would put out originally. The butt dyno is kind of biased considering it is attached to the brain that thinks you have bolted on more power. it may have moved your tq range around in the power band but doubtful that you will gain that much with a stock head swap and stock ECU. At the most you will be making the same Hp as a stock 2.3L H23.


Tuning is the key! If you do not tune the cams or the ignition timing you will not see the gains you think you think you would see.

[jdm92_accorn]

with the right combination of parts the f23/f22a6 head combo is capable of some impressive things. i have slips of high 13's with mine. as far as f23 head flowing more in stock form this is true. by a whole 6ish cfm on the intake side at .400" lift and 30ish cfm on the exhaust. but an f23 head has no real non-custom options for the intake and the exhaust when ported will outflow a ported f23 head unless you run oversized valves in the f23 head just to make it even. not only that the f23 head doesnt really have any header options. hands down the best bang per buck combo ive owned has been my f23/f22a6 setup. if i had a better clutch and more time i would've loved to have got a slip with my 249whp setup. that thing was badass for a day. it literally burned up an exedy stage 1 in 2-3hrs of 3rd and 4th gear rolls. i will be putting another one together soon. not as radical as the last one but around 200whp/190wtq with a taller gearing to get better mpg/longevity.

[Mishakol129]

I'd like to see a 1/4 mile time slip on that one... 0-60 in a wagon with a stock untuned engine and EMS would be a stretch. Videos of the dash don't count ether, I have a vid of my 120whp 3500lb SUV dash/speedo doing 0-60 in 5.7 seconds...... down hill

Power gains in a swap such as this would be very little without a proper tune. The stock ECU will not gain you that much more power than the stock engine would put out originally. The butt dyno is kind of biased considering it is attached to the brain that thinks you have bolted on more power. it may have moved your tq range around in the power band but doubtful that you will gain that much with a stock head swap and stock ECU. At the most you will be making the same Hp as a stock 2.3L H23.


Tuning is the key! If you do not tune the cams or the ignition timing you will not see the gains you think you think you would see.

Yeah but I seriously don't have the money to tune it. I will attest that the Pt4 Euro ECU is not a good ECU to use for that particular setup. When I swapped the PT6 ECU in I saw a big difference in acceleration.
Maybe its the mappings for the gas that was better, all I know is I've never been able to spin the tires shifting to 2nd gear like I can now. My idle is better as well, at 750 rpms right where it should be. Gas mileage is improved too, which is actually the main reason I ordered it to begin with. I want to try the P12 but I don' know if it will actually be any better than the Pt6 since I'm using dual runner intake and the P12 was made for a A1 singer runner intake. So fuel mapping in the mid to high rpms is not the best. That's where I find my engine makes more power.

[linkcb7]

Its not a hard build at all, you just got to use mainly F22a block parts. My setup right now is a F22b dohc head with a F23a block. Pt6 ECU too, no custom stuff. It runs the car very well. Pulls way better than the F22a ever did.

Like someone else on here said, you gotta use the F22a timing side mount bolts, as well as most other parts from the F22a engine. F22a timing belt+water pump. The harmonic balancer is an issue as you can't use the F23 one whih has markings for the ignition timing. You will need to cut a slot in the block because there is none on the F23 block. I didn't do this yet though, I have my ecu doing the ignition timing for me.

Basically its not hard at all and is a very streetable swap. Add on a balance shaft elimination kit (which is what I have) and it makes great power. You don't even need a tune necessarily.

This is the kind of build where it makes a turbo obsolete if you know what you're doing. My wagon does 0-60 in about 7 seconds. Just as fast as an H22a.

With the balancer stuff problems.. would I be able to avoid that problem if I delete just the belt? Or just buy the balancer shaft delete kit?

[Mishakol129]

With the balancer stuff problems.. would I be able to avoid that problem if I delete just the belt? Or just buy the balancer shaft delete kit?

You could delete the belt, but you wouldn't get added oil

[GhostAccord]

Just a note, using a balance shaft delete kit doesn't add any more oil volume or pressure. When done properly it should maintain the stock oil volume and pressure. Same as if you were to leave the shafts in and remove the belt.

[jdm92_accorn]

all it does is remove the shafts and reroute the oil to reduce parasitic loss of pumping oil where it's no longer needed. my built motor picked up a small amount of oil psi with a new oil pump and bs delete. seeing how most do a new oil pump when they do a bs delete they're probably giving the bs delete the credit when it's really the fresh pump. i will say ive personally noticed 4-5whp by removing just the belt. you still doing a lil head work on the side ghost?