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ENG: 90-93 TCU Fix / Preventative Maintenance

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    #16
    Has any one seen those solid type new capacitors of the same specs to our applications any where? Those solid ones are put on new motherboards now days and last almost forever. Very solid and low noise too. I am thinking if it would work as the solid ones are surface mount.
    Last edited by Bad_dude; 03-29-2012, 12:21 PM.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
      Has any one seen those solid type new capacitors of the same specs to our applications any where? Those solid ones are put on new motherboards now days and last almost forever. Very solid and low noise too. I am thinking if it would work as the solid ones are surface mount.
      They make the same rating capacitors in several different Termination styles, but if you use anything but an Radial, you would have to figure out a way to adapt it to mount to a through hole.
      PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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        #18
        Got my capacitors. I didn't want to spend the extras for the exact match. Total $4.95 for all 5 in quantities. Here's what I got:
        -4.7uF 50V qt:10
        -33uF 50V qt:10
        -1uF 50V qt:10, smallest in size
        -330uF 16V qt:5
        -220uF 50V qt: 5, Rubicon brand.
        They only sell in quantities. They came in various brands but the best quality I think is the Rubicon ones. Do the physical size really matter? The sizes are very little difference. The uF are exact match but the voltages are higher for 3 of them.
        Cloudasc, when you had your TCU burn, which capacitor was the culprit? I know you replaced all for precaution.
        Thanks.

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          #19
          I am not sure what capacitor was the culprit. According to my father, who is an engineer, and would be an expert in the field of electonic engineering, especially communications components, said he didn't notice any of the capacitors had leaked, his guess is one internally failed/shorted. You could just follow the traces on the board for those two resistors to find out. That's his handywork in the photo, I am still a novice when it comes to soldering. He did however give me an dead old digital telephone brain to practice on, as soon as I get the proper soldering iron/tip, I plan on honing my skills before butchering a pt3 soon for development purposes.
          PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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            #20
            Soldering isn't hard when you got the right iron. It's the removing the solder that is harder with the silly pump.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
              Soldering isn't hard when you got the right iron. It's the removing the solder that is harder with the silly pump.
              Ya, I can feel you TOTALLY on that one. I got the cheapy radioshack 20/40 watt iron w/stand & sponge, it works well enough to do very minor tasks, but the tip is rather large, I am not sure of replacements. I'm going to need a very fine tip, plus I'm also looking at possibly getting a portable butane one. As Jarrett's volunteered his car (because its a manual, and I have an auto) for some ecu testing in the near future, and I'm going to need to be able to test things "in the field".

              I don't plan on using/needing a pump, just using some solder braid when I need to desolder, and from all the times I've watching my father (he only uses braid at home), he sure as hell makes it look easy.
              PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                #22
                Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
                Ya, I can feel you TOTALLY on that one. I got the cheapy radioshack 20/40 watt iron w/stand & sponge, it works well enough to do very minor tasks, but the tip is rather large, I am not sure of replacements. I'm going to need a very fine tip, plus I'm also looking at possibly getting a portable butane one. As Jarrett's volunteered his car (because its a manual, and I have an auto) for some ecu testing in the near future, and I'm going to need to be able to test things "in the field".

                I don't plan on using/needing a pump, just using some solder braid when I need to desolder, and from all the times I've watching my father (he only uses braid at home), he sure as hell makes it look easy.
                What is wrong with you? You got an expert soldering father and all you do is watch? How about some videos to share with us dude. Lol.
                What I usually do is heat the old solder while pulling the part up. For resoldering, I normally heat the old solder, put a little new solder on it and all fuse again. The problem with some of these irons are they are too long for better control. I have a wood burning kit which the iron is shorter and I just change the tip to a finer one and it's easier to control the solder points. Harbor Freight has these wood burning kits in their houseware area.

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                  #23
                  Well my father is back in the Seattle, WA area, while I'm down here in Houston, TX, when I went to see them for this last thanksgiving, I got him to repair my old tcu, and to pretty much "chip" a p06 to p72 w/o knock. Overall cost was only $100 with the cost of the ecu and parts.

                  Also its not until recently that I've had a want/need to solder/desolder anything as precise as a circuit board. Soldering wires together and heatshrinking is much easier. The last thing I soldered was a new 1/8" headphone jack to a computer speaker set.

                  Once I've had some practice I can go ahead and make some videos if needed, although I already know youtube/etc has plenty of info on general soldering, but maybe a more specific walkthrough of something can be created. A better iron will definately help, I plan on consulting my father on his opinions in the matter.

                  Do you drink coffee? I've noticed that if I drink a little too much, and I try and wield my current iron, I have issues keeping a steady hand unless I brace myself, you ever experience that?

                  I would just like to throw that out there, as avoiding stimulants before doing "precise" work such as soldering might help.

                  EDIT: I spoke with my father last night about soldering irons for a couple minutes, he recommends if your learning how to solder, to get a 35 watt iron, he recommended Weller, or one other brand (thats much harder to find) that I can't remember the name of. He also recommended for circuit board work to get a "chisel" and "fine point" tip, in the 1/16" size range. Once you get good, you can go up to a 60 watt, but you have to be quick and precise. Reflecting back he fixed my tcu, I believe he said he used a 70-75 watt iron when I asked. When it comes to solder he recommended a 70/30 rosin core, and wire thats smaller then the contact point on the circuit board (stated for obvious reasons).
                  Last edited by cloudasc; 04-27-2012, 02:38 PM.
                  PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                    #24
                    My TCU layout is different.

                    My TCU layout is different. Also the capacitors seem to be in great shape. Should I even replace them? Look at the pic. The manufacture is different also.

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                      #25

                      ^^ EDIT: I just thought I would post this here for comparison.

                      Thats wierd, at how many miles did you aquire your car, and how many owners were there before you? I'm thinking maybe the tcu that came with your car died, and a previous owner put in a tcu from another car?

                      Maybe obd1 prelude? When you WOT, at what rpms does your car shift automatically?
                      Last edited by cloudasc; 05-04-2012, 10:22 PM.
                      PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
                        Thats wierd, at how many miles did you aquire your car, and how many owners were there before you? I'm thinking maybe the tcu that came with your car died, and a previous owner put in a tcu from another car?

                        Maybe obd1 prelude? When you WOT, at what rpms does your car shift automatically?
                        I got the car at 122k miles. It now has 153k miles. Just one owner before me. The car shifting depends on how hard I push the pedal. But 1st to 2nd usually around 2900k, then the rest depends on how hard. Some times it goes up to 3600k if I push it. But you think it looks like a prelude TCU? It looks pretty new. The bolts I took off seems like it's OEM on tight. You know that glue sound crack when you turn it?
                        Now if it looks this good, should I even bother with replacing the capacitors?
                        Thanks.

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                          #27
                          Whats the part number on the outside of the tcu case, it should have a barcode on it, and say:

                          AT CONTROL UNIT
                          28100-PX0-822-M1

                          Or something along those lines. Old capacitors, are old capacitors, they will fail eventually, and as they age, the probability gets higher, it definately wouldn't hurt anything to replace them, but I am unsure of any failures with that tcu, as its totally foreign to me.
                          PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                            #28
                            28100-PX4-922
                            6111 Lot NO.0510
                            3LX denshigiken
                            Hondapartsnow

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                              28100-PX4-922
                              6111 Lot NO.0510
                              3LX denshigiken
                              Hondapartsnow
                              I found the following information about our tcu's:

                              Originally posted by http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

                              Japan-built EX: P/N 28100-PX4-932 H/C 3523933
                              Japan-built LX & DX: P/N 28100-PX4-922 H/C 3520269
                              US-built EX: P/N 28100-PX0-932 H/C 3521796
                              US-built LX & DX: P/N 28100-PX0-922 H/C 3521788
                              I guess your car is MAD JDM YO!

                              So despite the different layout, are all the capacitors the same as in my guide? Otherwise if you can post any info/pictures of each capacitor that would be greatly appreciated!
                              PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                                #30
                                Yeah, the car was made and assembled in Japan, but the parts are not all JDM, like the headlights and corners in one piece and others. The VIN number is JDM.
                                I replaced the 2 biggest capacitors. I didn't have solder braid or pump so the back of the circuit board is a little scratched up. However the paths are still in tact. Just fine scratches from the slip solder point. That cheap helping hand thing was useless, keep falling over.
                                I found a good link on Soldering.
                                Oh, the capacitors are of the same values.

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