Rear sway bar.

[sleeper759]

I know that Progress and other companies make an aftermarket rear sway bar, however i was wondering if there are any other cars or vans that have a sway bar that i could grab from my local scrap yard that i could make fit?

[Losiracer2]

I know that Progress and other companies make an aftermarket rear sway bar, however i was wondering if there are any other cars or vans that have a sway bar that i could grab from my local scrap yard that i could make fit?

an EX accord has a factory rear sway bar thats 14mm in diameter. If you're lucky you'll find an Acura Vigor that has a 16mm rear sway that bolts up to the exact mounting spots the EX accord one does. You just need to enlarge the rubber mounting grommet by 2mm, I found a dremel or drill to be the easiest way.

Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.

[deevergote]

an EX accord has a factory rear sway bar thats 14mm in diameter. If you're lucky you'll find an Acura Vigor that has a 16mm rear sway that bolts up to the exact mounting spots the EX accord one does. You just need to enlarge the rubber mounting grommet by 2mm, I found a dremel or drill to be the easiest way.

Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.

You are the Vigor sway bar master! You're always the first to post in any thread regarding that

I've read that the rear bar adds understeer, and many people opt to go without one. I've never driven with one, so I have no personal experience there, though.

[C91BLX7]

I've read that the rear bar adds understeer, and many people opt to go without one. I've never driven with one, so I have no personal experience there, though.

Well yeah my lx has a bit of oversteer on sharp corners.

[wed3k]

rear bar adds understeer?

[Granite CB7]

^same here. Cannot go wrong w/ Progress RSB though, really can't!

[wed3k]

rear bar reduces understeer. even with a progress rear sway in my project car, it still understeers a bit.

[N9netwoAccord]

rear bar reduces understeer. even with a progress rear sway in my project car, it still understeers a bit.

exactly... a larger front sway bar will create more understeer making the front less resistant to move... a rear sway bar will help reduce the understeer.

[sleeper759]

So there are no other cars that i can use a rear sway bar from that is similar size to a progress sway bar? I know that with the progress sway bar its not just a bolt on, so i am willing to try and make another sway bar work as long as i know which car to get it off of, something in the 20mm size or so.

[johnl]

A stiffer rear anti roll bar (sway bar) reduces understeer by increasing rear roll stiffness and thus increasing the % of total lateral weight transfer that occurs at the rear and equally reducing the % of total lateral WT that occurs at the front (even though nothing was done to the front, less WT occurs at the front). The same thing occurs if front roll stiffness is reduced (softer front ARB or springs), though body roll will increase.

I've adapted a front ARB from a Mitsubishi Magna to the rear of my CB7. This is a 20mm ARB that I've mounted similarly to how Progress mount their CB7 / CD5 rear ARBs (but with additional mount re-inforcements where the end links attach to the suspension, a good idea with any rear ARB on these cars because the stock attachment method allows excessive flexure of the radius rod / trailing arm, which effectively softens the ARB rate as seen at the contact patches).

This was not a straightforward job, the ARB needing to be heated (red-hot) and bent as appropriate to fit the Honda. The end links are each now a hybrid link with the upper end being stock Honda (with poly bushing), and the lower end being a ball joint style pivot sourced from a Toyota Camry ARB link (the two parts being welded together). The Toyota link joint suits the Mitsubishi ARB, but was easier to adapt onto the Honda link than the Mitsubishi joint.

Now, because the ARB was heated to modify it's shape, any heat treatment that may have existed will have been negated. However, my research suggests that many ARBs are not heat treated at all (and I have no idea whether or not the Mitsubishi ARB originally was or not), relying only upon the qualities of the untreated steel, which is more than adequate in most cases (often some form of chrome moly or similar). Running a file over the annealed Mitsubishi ARB steel does suggest that it is still significantly harder than mild steel...

It would be preferable if the steel were to be heat treated (or re-heat treated), but in most cases the degree to which the ARB is twisted in use does not exceed the elastic limit of the un-heat treated steel used, so the steel is not likely to be significantly affected in use. In some applications where there is a great deal of suspension travel this may not be the case, e.g. off road use 4WD.

I didn't re-heat treat the ARB due to cost considerations, but have had no problems at all (so far).

Note that whether the steel is heat treated or not, the modulus of elasticity of steel is the same, i.e. a heat treated ARB and an un-heat treated ARB of the same dimensions will be equally as stiff as each other, the difference being that the un-treated steel will have a lower elastic limit and therefore will be permanently deformed (twisted / bent) more easily (i.e. you can twist a heat treated bar more before it permanently deforms).

[ikayto]

an EX accord has a factory rear sway bar thats 14mm in diameter. If you're lucky you'll find an Acura Vigor that has a 16mm rear sway that bolts up to the exact mounting spots the EX accord one does. You just need to enlarge the rubber mounting grommet by 2mm, I found a dremel or drill to be the easiest way.

Then it'll bolt right up. If you have an LX/DX accord though, you'll need the EX rear crossmember that already has the bracket holes predrilled.

my dx had the holes, I think it maybe like how the 90 doesnt have arm rest holes but the 91 does.

[kantkillkeenan]

i think explicitspeedproformance.net makes them...i know im getting the tri front bar...shit is sick

[wed3k]

i think explicitspeedproformance.net makes them...i know im getting the tri front bar...shit is sick

that's wrong.

[Losiracer2]

You are the Vigor sway bar master! You're always the first to post in any thread regarding that

I've read that the rear bar adds understeer, and many people opt to go without one. I've never driven with one, so I have no personal experience there, though.

HAHA yeah I strive to be the Vigor know it all. I DID write up a Vigor Leather steering wheel DIY.

A stiffer rear anti roll bar (sway bar) reduces understeer by increasing rear roll stiffness and thus increasing the % of total lateral weight transfer that occurs at the rear and equally reducing the % of total lateral WT that occurs at the front (even though nothing was done to the front, less WT occurs at the front). The same thing occurs if front roll stiffness is reduced (softer front ARB or springs), though body roll will increase.

I've adapted a front ARB from a Mitsubishi Magna to the rear of my CB7. This is a 20mm ARB that I've mounted similarly to how Progress mount their CB7 / CD5 rear ARBs (but with additional mount re-inforcements where the end links attach to the suspension, a good idea with any rear ARB on these cars because the stock attachment method allows excessive flexure of the radius rod / trailing arm, which effectively softens the ARB rate as seen at the contact patches).

This was not a straightforward job, the ARB needing to be heated (red-hot) and bent as appropriate to fit the Honda. The end links are each now a hybrid link with the upper end being stock Honda (with poly bushing), and the lower end being a ball joint style pivot sourced from a Toyota Camry ARB link (the two parts being welded together). The Toyota link joint suits the Mitsubishi ARB, but was easier to adapt onto the Honda link than the Mitsubishi joint.

Now, because the ARB was heated to modify it's shape, any heat treatment that may have existed will have been negated. However, my research suggests that many ARBs are not heat treated at all (and I have no idea whether or not the Mitsubishi ARB originally was or not), relying only upon the qualities of the untreated steel, which is more than adequate in most cases (often some form of chrome moly or similar). Running a file over the annealed Mitsubishi ARB steel does suggest that it is still significantly harder than mild steel...

It would be preferable if the steel were to be heat treated (or re-heat treated), but in most cases the degree to which the ARB is twisted in use does not exceed the elastic limit of the un-heat treated steel used, so the steel is not likely to be significantly affected in use. In some applications where there is a great deal of suspension travel this may not be the case, e.g. off road use 4WD.

I didn't re-heat treat the ARB due to cost considerations, but have had no problems at all (so far).

Note that whether the steel is heat treated or not, the modulus of elasticity of steel is the same, i.e. a heat treated ARB and an un-heat treated ARB of the same dimensions will be equally as stiff as each other, the difference being that the un-treated steel will have a lower elastic limit and therefore will be permanently deformed (twisted / bent) more easily (i.e. you can twist a heat treated bar more before it permanently deforms).

HOW do you know all this? you're like a walking car guru.

[johnl]

HOW do you know all this? you're like a walking car guru.

Except for the huge amount that I don't know...