DCB7 : 1993 Accord LX

[DCB7]

Tein S-Techs


















They're supposed to settle




Not loving the look but the ride quality is basically excellent.
Ran one of my regular routes, and when I rode bumps that usually make me cringe...nothing....zen

I might of got too deep into it though. I swapped 4 springs out by myself the first time I ever did it with only minor hand tools
I got it done but have to slow it down for a while
Coilovers next time tho


Did a bumper light refresh while I was at it

[Stoner51]

Car looks great. A lot of nice work and detail.

Valve cover looks great. Keep up the work

Steve

[DCB7]

Thanks, Stoner51
I did get a new ratchet, some sockets and stuff, in the process, so I will have to put them to use
I definitely need new lug nuts. Probably extended. Mine are rusty and rounded off.

[DCB7]

Some footage from when I did my spring swap



And before I forget, I did a valve adjustment when I changed the valve cover, changed the gasket again, and got some chrome trim pieces, for where the previous owner took a screwdriver to the door jams.



I also found that the stock knob with all the clips removed sits about an inch lower than the aftermarket one when at its lowest position, and it doesn't get as hot from the sun. I tightened it down till it was shredding the plastic inside.

[DCB7]

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still waiting for them to settle

[XCRN]

I just drove over speed bumps a lot. Keep in mind since I put on all of my suspension, I have not driven more than 5 miles, hell probably not even 2 miles.

Just find a road with a lot of speed bumps and it will settle in no time, but do not go over those speed bumps like you are in a Jeep.

[DCB7]

I just drove over speed bumps a lot. Keep in mind since I put on all of my suspension, I have not driven more than 5 miles, hell probably not even 2 miles.

Just find a road with a lot of speed bumps and it will settle in no time, but do not go over those speed bumps like you are in a Jeep.

Oh I put over 500 miles on it already, I'm just being optimistic I'm slowly accepting that this is my ride height for a while.

It may look more like a jeep, but Im still low, and conscious of it, especially with the low spring rate.

I see you're going for a H. I'm making the most of the F since its in great running condition....apart from it cutting off on me a couple times in the last few days. Ive got varied opinions, but Im thinking its something to do with idle air control, causing the revs to drop to nothing. Either that or something electrical, like the fuel relay going bad
Still, I think Im going to do the IM swap, and make sure everything is sealed up. Or blocked off

[DCB7]

Coupe lip. I just got it because its the first time seeing a legend coupe at the junkyard, and it had the lip on it. Im going to fix my sedan lip (took a few hits and the bondo cracked) and keep this as a backup


Finishing up deburring the f22a6 runners
before:




I had to destroy the EGR nuts to remove them with heat and a chisel. Now I have two EGR valves


Almost totally blocked along with the EGR passages. Some big chunks fell in before this pic


I melted the gasket with the heat while removing and need to clean off

[DCB7]

I thought I finally found the solution to my car cutting off while driving (like it ran out of gas)
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=53888

I got a soldering gun and some wire cheap at a local car audio store

before:




after:



Just did this yesterday, but it cut off on me a few times while driving since that.
It was my first time soldering. So is it my soldering work to blame, or is this ok and my problem is something else?

[DCB7]

Because of the iffy solder work, I got another relay and resoldered it, but it still cut off while driving and became progressively more frequent. Until it cut off in traffic this morning and wouldn't re-start, leaving me stranded.

Luckily I was only a mile from home, and I my neighbor who buys motorcycles, boats and junk cars ( e4lsp.com ) helped me out and towed it to the house.

I ordered a 255 fuel pump kit. Should be here soon

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

i highly doubt it's your fuel relay. My car experienced a similar issue as yours ad it turned out to be the ignition module in the distributor. I recommend replacing the whole distributor with a new unit (not rebuilt). The last one I bought was a Rich Porter and it hasn't failed since. I recommend a new unit because it comes with all new internal wires and bearings along with the module inside.

The issues I experienced with fuel pump relay was different than yours. When it was hot outside >90 I would be able to turn the car on first thing in the morning. but if i were to turn it off I would have a hell of a time trying to restart it. eventually it would start. this issue was fixed by replacing the relay.

[DCB7]

i highly doubt it's your fuel relay. My car experienced a similar issue as yours ad it turned out to be the ignition module in the distributor. I recommend replacing the whole distributor with a new unit (not rebuilt). The last one I bought was a Rich Porter and it hasn't failed since. I recommend a new unit because it comes with all new internal wires and bearings along with the module inside.

The issues I experienced with fuel pump relay was different than yours. When it was hot outside >90 I would be able to turn the car on first thing in the morning. but if i were to turn it off I would have a hell of a time trying to restart it. eventually it would start. this issue was fixed by replacing the relay.

Yow! Thanks for the heads up. I got to rep you for this if it works

For some reason I never pulled the codes
I just did, and I got codes 7, 14, 17 and guess which one. Code 15

Now, that's a lot of codes but its a good thing I held on to my old distributor, knowing that the new one was only $75. The old one never died, it just leaked oil like a faucet over everything. I held it so if this one failed I would just re-seal it, BUT, hopefully I can just swap out the igniter.

Reason I was so convinced it was the fuel pump is because the fuel gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car, and honestly sometimes, ok most times I let it run down till the light came on before realizing I needed gas. I read and heard that would definitely burn your pump up. Stupid, but now Im in trouble I ran out and got a new gauge, which was working till the car cut off.

I'm going to try switching the igniter over soon as I can, then I'll deal with the other codes.

[SanJoCaF22DrAcc]

Yow! Thanks for the heads up. I got to rep you for this if it works

For some reason I never pulled the codes
I just did, and I got codes 7, 14, 17 and guess which one. Code 15

Now, that's a lot of codes but its a good thing I held on to my old distributor, knowing that the new one was only $75. The old one never died, it just leaked oil like a faucet over everything. I held it so if this one failed I would just re-seal it, BUT, hopefully I can just swap out the igniter.

Reason I was so convinced it was the fuel pump is because the fuel gauge hasn't worked since I bought the car, and honestly sometimes, ok most times I let it run down till the light came on before realizing I needed gas. I read and heard that would definitely burn your pump up. Stupid, but now Im in trouble I ran out and got a new gauge, which was working till the car cut off.

I'm going to try switching the igniter over soon as I can, then I'll deal with the other codes.

good luck bro.

When my ignition module was going out the car would cut out while I was driving. It would sometime jerk a bit and then keep going. Other times it would die out completely. I would pull over and wait a while and keep trying to turn the key and hope it would fire up. eventually it would start up again.

With the fuel pump relay once my car was on it would stay running until i turned it off. It wouldn't cut out or turn off randomly while driving.

[DCB7]

good luck bro.

When my ignition module was going out the car would cut out while I was driving. It would sometime jerk a bit and then keep going. Other times it would die out completely. I would pull over and wait a while and keep trying to turn the key and hope it would fire up. eventually it would start up again.

With the fuel pump relay once my car was on it would stay running until i turned it off. It wouldn't cut out or turn off randomly while driving.

Thank you sir!

That's exactly what my car was doing, plus it would idle at about 1200 sometimes (not sure if that's connected, may have needed to reset the ecu)

Anyway, I tried my old leaking distributor before I swapped anything, and it cranked right up!!! I reset the ecu, now when I jump the plug the check engine light just stays on. No blinking. Car runs more crispy too. I even had the pleasure of burning a CD5 on the test drive, lol. (He started a half a car ahead of me, by 50 he was on my back bumper. He was pushing it too, even burned tires going into second, but, couldn't hold me.) In his defense he did have a slow as Fck sticker on it, lol.

I came across ignitor/ICM in my search but saw no examples of it being intermittent. I thought it was either working or not. Plus people kept telling me fuel pump, and I was saying fuel pump.

However, I think I'm still going to change over the igniter, because I haven't had luck re-sealing the old one in the past. Here's to square one

Thanks again bro

[DCB7]

Fuel pump came in.
high pressure 255 pump with filter and kit. (not walbro) I'll put it in the classifieds (cheap) for some one who really needs one.




I got this throttle body from someone on craigslist for $20


It was full of gasket sealer, even in the vacuum channel. This is after half a clean
It was listed as an H22, but it looks exactly like every picture I've seen of a H23 throttle body. Either way, it doesn't have the MAP sensor on it so I don't think I'll have to re-wire anything


It came with an iacv, looks more like an F22 one than a H22. Works for me.