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Throttle body fitment

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    Throttle body fitment

    I recently bought a 70mm tb, but it did not fit the stock cb manifold (f22a4). Does any one know of an aftermarket tb that fits the stock i/m?

    I was also looking into getting a h22 or h23 i/m in case there isn't any aftermarket tb for the stock cb manifold,but I have 2 doubts.

    1. Which one is the one to get, h22 or h23?
    2. Will I have to get a F2H adapter for it?

    Thank you.

    #2
    Should work. Sounds like you have a H series 70mm and trying to fit it to an F?

    Taking Skunk2 for example:
    "Skunk2’s Alpha Series Throttle Body is designed to be used with Skunk2’s Pro Series Intake Manifolds as well as OEM and other aftermarket intake manifolds for bolt-on horsepower and torque gains by maximizing engine airflow,"

    https://skunk2.com/induction/throttl...-body-636.html

    But it depends on what specific one you have. Which one do you have? They all have this note under the note tab on their page too.

    "NOTE: Due to Larger Diameter... You Must Use A Skunk2 Pro Series Intake Manifold or Make Adjustments to Intake Manifold Throttle Body Flange to Match Bore and Keep IAC (Idle Air Control) Passage Separate. Not compatible with B18C GS-R intake manifold. Not compatible with D Series engines featuring down-flow intake manifolds. Manual Transmission Only.

    Fits F20C but NOT the F22C"

    Comment


      #3
      You have a couple options.
      1) get an H23A1 intake manifold. It will bolt right up to your head. The H22A, F20B, or VTEC H23A manifold will not.

      2) get an F22A6 manifold and swap the plenum for one from an H22 or H23 (either will fit.)
      Your F22A4 manifold is one piece, so you cannot swap the plenum. The F22A6 manifold comes apart.

      Which route you take depends on whether you want longer or shorter runners.

      In either case, you’ll need to get the IAB control box and an ECU with IAB functions enabled (like the F22A6’s PT6) if you want the IAB system to function correctly. Some people remove it entirely, but I don’t see the point in doing so. Not unless you’re building a high-rpm drag racer.


      If you need/want a performance manifold like the Skunk2 unit, you will need an adapter.


      One question: What modifications do you have done to justify a 70mm throttle body? That’s really not a great modification to do until your engine is breathing much better than stock. It may even have a negative impact on performance if you’re running a stock camshaft and stock or cheapie exhaust manifold/header.






      Comment


        #4
        Thank you guys for answering my questions. My plan is to make some more hp without doing any major modifications to the engine, and keeping it n/a.

        I bought the entire exhaust system, header, down pipe,catback 4-2-1. I did this because I broke a bolt on the header because it was rusty and I don't want my car to sound like a Harley Davidson while idling.

        I bought a Vms racing 70mm tb. I wanted to do some port and polishing and bore the intake to 70mm so it matched the tb.

        Try not to laugh in this section...
        I also went ahead and got a chipped p06 and told the tuner my specs. (70mm tb, stage 1 port polished, 2.25" exhaust... I told him I wanted 2-step launch control and he was nice enough to program an adjustable 3-step with base rpm at 3k )

        I still have the p06 in the car even though i dont have the 70mm tb in it. It runs good, a bit quicker in the low rpm's and no CEL codes.

        I was going to get some 500cc injectors and order another eprom chipped with those specs, since I already have the chipped p06 and the eprom only costs $30 with the basemap included. Now that things went south with the throttle body, I'm at stage 1 here is a pic of the tb.



        Also, I thought all the CBs intake manifold could be taken apart into 2 pieces by removing these bolts and the ones behind?




        What do you Yoda cb7 Masters think would be the best course of action from here? I won't be a jerk and ask for advise and end up ignoring it. I've seen enough of those in this site.

        Comment


          #5
          Deev Gave you the answers in the post above yours. Look in a junkyard and buy either a f22a6 or h23 intake manifold. Or see if a member close to you has one for sale.
          Last edited by Grumpys93; 10-09-2018, 06:41 AM.
          ~Nick~
          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

          Comment


            #6
            The OP is correct, all F22A and F22B intake manifolds are two piece, upper plenum and lower runners. That being said the A1-A4 have a single set of runners vs the F20B, H22 & H23 dual runners with an intake air bypass system. You cannot mount an F20B H22, H23A or H23A VTEC upper plenum on an F22A1-A4 lower.
            MR Thread
            GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

            by Chappy, on Flickr

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
              The OP is correct, all F22A and F22B intake manifolds are two piece, upper plenum and lower runners. That being said the A1-A4 have a single set of runners vs the F20B, H22 & H23 dual runners with an intake air bypass system. You cannot mount an F20B H22, H23A or H23A VTEC upper plenum on an F22A1-A4 lower.
              That is true. My apologies. It’s been a very long time since I’ve seen an F22A1/4 manifold!

              The P06 will need to be modified to operate the IAB system properly.

              A generic header won’t flow much better than the stock F22A4 manifold. The large throttle body and upgraded intake manifold won’t gain much. You may even lose low end power, while being choked on the high end by your exhaust and camshaft.

              500cc injectors are pointless unless you’re planning to go turbo. You’ll gain nothing at all with those, other than a hefty tuning bill. More fuel does not mean more power.

              Finally, that 3(?)-step is just a fuel cut. You’re running lean every time you bounce off the limiter. That’s is extremely hard on your engine. I’ve had it myself, and I know it’s fun... but you’d be wise to disable it. If you can’t learn how to launch a sub-200hp car without assistance, you probably don’t need to be racing.






              Comment


                #8
                Picked this one up today. Complete with the black box on the bottom.





                Throttle body fitted perfectly. I plan on cleaning it and do some research about the f to h manifold swap. Modify the p06 as deev said in order to activate the secondary runners.

                What's next? I wan to solve the choking and breathing problems before I install the manifold in the future. I was looking into cams from bisimoto, but also saw some members here opted for a regrind by Delta Cam. Other thing/s I should tackle first to make this little investment worth while?

                I'm not trying to set any track records or race every Hyundai on the streets. Just some mild gain, really.

                Comment

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