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honda mtf in 92 accord ex??

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    #16
    Drive it around a bit get it nice and hot and make sure the car is sitting even when you drain it so you get as much of the old stuff out as you can. By this I mean put it on jack stand and then jack up the rear so it's sitting level. Then have like an extra quart of some generic oil to run threw the fill plug and let drain out as much of the old crap as you can. then fill it with the Honda MTF. Seems like over kill to some but I like to be thorough.

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      #17
      everything seems ok after adding the MTF. 3rd gear doesnt even grind when shifting into it anymore.

      unfortunately im having some idle issues now.
      starts and warms up just fine. runs fine for awhile but after a few minutes on the road itll start to drop dangerously low when i come to stops..

      i have cleaned my iacv and fitv. i attempted to bleed the cooling system but it didnt go as planned for my first crack at it (spilled a lot of coolant ). will try again in 2 days.

      also read something about pulling ecu fuse to reset it but wouldnt disconnecting the battery do the same thing?

      i know CEL can influence the idle. mine reads o2 sensor i think(did papercip test, CEL came on then off so i red it as CEL code 01. ill replace soon and keep posted.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Guero112 View Post
        everything seems ok after adding the MTF. 3rd gear doesnt even grind when shifting into it anymore.

        unfortunately im having some idle issues now.
        starts and warms up just fine. runs fine for awhile but after a few minutes on the road itll start to drop dangerously low when i come to stops..

        i have cleaned my iacv and fitv. i attempted to bleed the cooling system but it didnt go as planned for my first crack at it (spilled a lot of coolant ). will try again in 2 days.

        also read something about pulling ecu fuse to reset it but wouldnt disconnecting the battery do the same thing?

        i know CEL can influence the idle. mine reads o2 sensor i think(did papercip test, CEL came on then off so i red it as CEL code 01. ill replace soon and keep posted.

        Disconnect both battery cables for a few minutes (When I reset my ECU, I left the battery disconnected for 15 minutes). Now, when you reconnect the battery and start the car, do not touch the throttle at all. Let the car idle until the fans kick on which means you've hit a full cooling cycle, and also signals that your ECU is now reset. You always have to do this when repairing anything that effects the throttle body, such as the Air Boost Valve, FIT Valve, Idle Air Control Valve, etc. As for your coolant, you can fill and bleed it the old fashioned way with a funnel that fits in to your radiator and creates a seal between the funnel and radiator opening. Do this when you first start the car. Make sure the radiator cap is off before you start the car, them start the car, insert the funnel in to the top of the radiator making sure it fits snug and pretty much seals. Then, fill the funnel half way with coolant, because you need to keep coolant flowing through the radiator as air bubbles escape, not allowing more air to enter due to the coolant level dropping. To be safe, I usually let the fans cycle three times before I'm done bleeding the coolant. You basically want to keep the cooling system full. Also make sure you set your temp dial to the hottest position on your AC/Heater controls. This will allow the coolant to flow through your heating system also, which is what you want because you need to completely fill the cooling system and anything that utilizes it. Hope that made sense.

        Also, another thing that will effect your idle is vacuum leaks from bad gaskets or seals. Another notorious culprit is an intake gasket leak.

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          #19
          I have a complete gasket set so ill try n replace the intake manifold also I ordered a set of 8mm vacuum hoses to replace most vacuum hoses.also I plan on a valve adjustment, and some what tb, Im and injectors cleaning. Still haven't replaced thay o2 sensor

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            #20
            Yup, a valve adjustment will make a world of difference sometimes.

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              #21
              ok so i tried making another thread and it got deleted soooo....


              valve adjustment went great. o2 sensor wasnt a success. i think imma wait to get a whole new exhaust system from ebay. the reason for that being my exhaust is a lil dented up, rusted, and in need(imo) of replacement.

              speaking of exhaust, mine is recently acting up.. i think. so after my valve adjustment car ran great. but i still had idle issue. i decided to wait on exhaust system from ebay(maybe 1-2 more months) to replace O2 sensor which is my CEL (read above). and in the mean time i would remove and clean complete intake manifold and check for leaky hoses & lines. i did. looks good too, and leaky hoses and lines are replaced. btw can i upload pix from facebook?anyway its back on and everything is sealed up properly. had an issue getting it started. left gas cap open and pressure relief on fuel rail was loose when i tried cranking first two times. i closed and tightened everything and it started. but now i have a spudder like an exhaust leak but i didnt touch any exhaust parts. my car shakes but i need a new driver-side engine mount. spuders during acceleration and in idle.
              side note: idle issue seems to be just about fixed.

              1)Is it time for a new exhaust/ exhaust(i.e. Cat. Conv.) back-pressure?
              2)Is it not enough fuel mixing w/ more air from cleaning manifold?
              3)o2 sensor not sending correct mix?

              All and Any help is appreciated.
              Last edited by Guero112; 04-02-2013, 09:23 AM. Reason: i will recheck the tightening on the manifold to head area. i know for a fact everything else is tight.

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