Engine Dies After Ignition

[Scolirk]

Hey all,

It seems I only post here now when there's something significantly wrong with my car

Wednesday the Accord started having issues. I had parked it for a few minutes after a few hours of driving with a few stops in between. When I started it the engine would turn over and start, but as soon as the key went from the ignition position to ON, the engine would die. This happened a few times before I was able to start the engine and floor the throttle in Park for 15 seconds and pulled out of my spot. The car was fine until today when it did the same thing.

Never had this issue before. No warning lights come on since the engine dies immediately. No warning lights on the dash while driving after.

The car just needs to survive another month or two before I can replace it an retire it to project car status in the garage. Any suggestions as what the issue is or solutions to fix would be greatly appreciated. Will try to replicate problem tomorrow and post video.

[Scolirk]

[oyajicool]

I think your ignition switch is faulty.

[Fleetw00d]

X2. I had this problem with my 90. Try this. When you start it, only let the key go back far enough to disengage the starter - hold it just above the "ON" position. If it keeps running here, then dies when you completely let go of the key, it is your ignition switch. How difficult is it to replace depends on whether you have an auto or manual.

[4GAccordH22]

Like was said earlier, it is your ignition switch. I changed mine out in the auto parts store parking lot with a few basic hand tools. It's not that difficult if you can do basic automotive work.
http://www.hondapartsoverstock.com/a...M23B1100D.html
Make sure you get #11 only. You don't need #2 (which includes the switch AND the lock barrel).

[Scolirk]

Excellent, thank you all for the replies! It is autotragic, which I imagine makes things even easier. I'll try that trick with the ignition position just to double check, but if its simple enough to fix I'll try it out this weekend.

Is there any chance that it would get worse? IE break to the point where it won't start period? Just wondering if I might get stranded somewhere before I have a chance to replace it.

[Fleetw00d]

Yes, it is likely to only get worse. How good are you at driving while holding the key above "ON"?

[oyajicool]

I was on my 2dr Accord which has 5 speed when it happened.
Holding the key in that particular position to keep the engine running with right hand, shifting with left hand on which shift lever is on my right side.
It was tricky but I managed it safely.

[oni_cb7]

Also, you might want to check if the main relay is clicking when you go to start the car.

[DCB7]

Ignitor

Did you pull your codes?

Mine acted somewhat similar when it was a bad ignitor, which was cheap, next to free at the junkyard. No more problems from it for about a year now.



Check second to last page of my MRT for woes of a man who doesn't pull his codes

edit: oh and I always let the fuel pump prime now (wait till the 'check engine' light goes off when the key is in ON position) before cranking it

[Scolirk]

No fault code as the car doesn't detect an issue. It must be the switch as mentioned from other posts. When I start the car I ensure to switch the ignition to ON before starting it. If all the dash lights come on I know it's safe to start. So far I haven't had a single issue.

Canadian Tire wants $80 for the switch, Honda almost $130. I'll live with it for now, unless there's concern the car would shut off during operation in which case that would be a fatal problem.

[4GAccordH22]

Mine cut off while I was driving to work. The gauges went crazy (tach and speedo jumping from 0 to speed (RPM) repeatedly, then just shut off. No indication before that. Had to figure out the problem on the spot. Got it to stay running for the rest of the drive (I had a 70 mile commute at the time) and replaced the switch that same day. Hasn't come back after about 13 years.
Just fix it and be done with it.

[djcaz_aom]

The main cause of the switch going bad is wear and tear. If you have alot of keys on your key ring, don't. The extra weight causes excessive wear and tear on the switch.

Have you tried a local scrap yard?

[F22Chris]

Best way to test it is to start the car, then wiggle the key in the ON position.(not turning it off) and if it shuts off, replace the switch. There's no need to replace the tumbler. Should be 5-6 screws including the column.

[F22Chris]

Sorry to double post. But ETCG does a video on it, even though it's a CD5, the same things apply.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WX9EF0eOrVs