I have a 92 accord ex coupe. I was attempting to change my rear struts today and i could not get the lower bolt to go all the way thru to the wielded nut. It wouldn't align. I admit i am short on tools and needed a flat tip crow bar(which i didn't have) to pry it into alignment. Is there some trick to this. I've never had such a hard time trying to get this bolt aligned. I am going to let my mechanic i think do this one. As it was very hard to get that bolt out also. I thought the rears were easy. I only attempted one side and never got my new struts on. Effn frustrating. So now the bolt isn't threaded into wielded nut and am going to drive it to my mechanics which is 1 mile away. I think this would be ok as long as i go slow. What do yall think?
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Definitely would not drive on it! Not even a little bit!
Do you have a floor jack? Lift the knuckle with a floor jack while tapping the head of the bolt with a 3 lb. sledge. You'll get it in. It's just because the two holes are designed to line up at the shock/spring's preloaded state which it is not at when it is at its free length. If nothing else, disconnect the upper ball joint and allow the rear knuckle to lower. Once the bolt is inserted and tightened just a bit, then reinstall the ball joint. Remember, all suspension bolt at rotating items are designed to be torqued when loaded. So before torquing that bolt, be sure the car is on the ground or set on 4 equal tire stands.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency! -
Either have to drive on it or get it towed a mile. Not in a position to work on it anymore. Has to go to mechanic. Even though it might be simple.Originally posted by Jarrett View PostComment
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Not sure how badly the bushing and the fork are misaligned but can you get your hands on an alignment punch/misc rod/socket extension that can prealign everything before the bolt goes in? Or carefully go thru the back where the nut is and try to align the bushing as you tap the bolt thru? You're almost there, you can get this!Comment
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I've even used a screwdriver to align the bushing and bolt. Jam in the pokey bit and crank it up or down to line it up, then hammer the bolt home.Comment
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I wish i had more time to work on it as i hate to pay a mechanic to do this. The wielded nut is pretty far off from being aligned. I could not get it within 4mm and on jack stands in a parking lot it is too hard for me i guess. My mechanic is only going to charge me 120 to do this so is worth it at this point.Originally posted by Granite CB7 View PostComment
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I had the exact same issue, try un-bolting the big arm (Idk the proper name, trailing arm?...) then lining up the knuckle with the strut and lower control arms. After you get bolts in finaggle the trailing arm back in, I had to press on stuff with my feet to get it to line up LOL. Also, using a jack to line up stuff is always helpful.
You got this dude, if you get frustrated go do something else for an hour or two, then come back and think it through.
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Is this the issue?
If so you need to push/pull the wheel assembly (disc hub) down until it aligns. Use your foot or pull it down with your hand until the bolt aligns. Then you can tap it with a hammer and it should slide across the yoke. When you begin to thread the bolt in it may be necessary to maintain the yoke hole alignment by continuing slight pressure on the wheel assembly until the bolt engages.Last edited by hiptech; 04-04-2017, 05:45 PM.Comment
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yes exactly the issue. Am going to get a set of alignment punches and do it this saturday as i had to send one strut back as it was wrong side. KYB gets the rear strut packaging wrong alot of times on these rears. I wonder why. For anyone else check when u get ur rears if u use kyb strut-plus. I am going to attempt it again this saturday. I should have no problems as it struck me with granite's comments that a center or alignment punch would be able to slide it up. This should be relatively easy.Originally posted by hiptech View PostIs this the issue?
If so you need to push/pull the wheel assembly (disc hub) down until it aligns. Use your foot or pull it down with your hand until the bolt aligns. Then you can tap it with a hammer and it should slide across the yoke. When you begin to thread the bolt in it may be necessary to maintain the yoke hole alignment by continuing slight pressure on the wheel assembly until the bolt engages.Comment
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There should be no need for excessive force here... when you removed the bottom bolt from shock the suspension dropped free and the alignment between the shock yoke or fork and bottom mount obviously changed position.Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
In order to realign it all that is necessary is a small floor jack to raise or lower the suspension or another person to lift it while you re-thread the bolt.
I would suggest you look at this YT video which is an '89 Accord but essentially the same. While it only shows him removing the shock you can see how he manipulates the alignment merely by moving the rear suspension down until the bolt slides freely.
You can see this at 6:00 / 8:20Code:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJe81iW0B-I
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I just put new Bilsteins in Ruby, at least on mine, the rear knuckle sprung up and I had to push down on it (used a crow bar as a lever) to get the bushing down far enough to line up with the hole in the bottom end of the shock.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
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YES! This absolutely made my day, I'm glad you're still on boardOriginally posted by zedjr10 View Post
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Too embarrassed to take it to my mechanic to say hey i fucked up this bolt and i'm retarded and can't get it thru and i call myself an engineer.lol. Am also to scared to drive it anywhere. Thank god the parking lot am using is less than 100 yards away. I started fixing this car with hardly no tools(a few wrenches and sockets) and now my good size tool box(also purchased new) is overflowing. Small sledgehammer and some center punches(alignment punches or whatever u want to call them) to be added.Originally posted by Granite CB7 View PostYES! This absolutely made my day, I'm glad you're still on boardLast edited by zedjr10; 04-05-2017, 02:48 AM.Comment
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I think that yt video fucked me up as i rented a set of coil compressors and i just fucked up the coil alignment on the old strut. I should of never done that and hopefully this weekend it don't pop loose and kill me. btw yall would love this car as it has no rust on body(no fog lights though) and can't wait to barter some work with a paint shop.Comment
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Car is all done. Front and rear struts on and ready to go. Definitely rides better. A warning to anyone ordering the rear kyb strut-plus. Mounting holes aren't aligned correctly. which caused to to be a total pain the ass. But it is done and now can go get it aligned and drive to to china. I do have a question. The rear upper control arm i am thinking of replacing cause the balled joint seal is cracked and the effn castle nut cotter pin is broke up and rusted stuck so i just tightened it which i am sure it is fine for now but what about 5 or 10 years. I don't want to replace anything i don't have to. But thinking about it and it is annoying. I couldn't even bang the dam ball joint out. The front ones came right out. I guess i need to get a pickle fork now. What do yall think?Comment
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