Originally posted by EsperHamid
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Crazy Bad Mileage, CB7 consuming fuel like crazy
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Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
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Originally posted by EsperHamid View PostThanks man, still adjusting the valves, my feeler Gage are tedious to work with. I realized yesterday that the crank pulley was fluctuating too could be a loose pulley nut .... should it be torqued left or right to re-tighten it ....as the P/S pump belt is slipping while I try to turn it to adjust the valve ( Spark Plugs removed )Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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It's not a reversed thread so right tighty lefty loosey, i would also check to make sure the keyway and where it inserts into the crank/pulley isn't wallowed out. I pulled a pulley that was wallowed out and the teeth on it were almost non existent.
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02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
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Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View PostIt's not a reversed thread so right tighty lefty loosey, i would also check to make sure the keyway and where it inserts into the crank/pulley isn't wallowed out. I pulled a pulley that was wallowed out and the teeth on it were almost non existent.
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Originally posted by EsperHamid View Posthow can it be wallowed ?! there's a belt !! it is fluctuating but not widely, it can be noticed though if you look closely ... I will check the key way. but from what I understand...from DJ_Ender and your post is that I don't have a broken valve ?!Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by dj_ender View PostI'm not saying that...yet. We need to fix the known things first, then move onto unknown things. Get your valve lash set, adjust your cable, check/tighten the crank pulley, show us a pic of the debris you found, we can probably identify it.
- true gonna report when I finish these
- the video you showed me is for a manual not an automatic, mine is automatic as Eric said he will be covering this in another video but I couldn't find that video he's talking about <== why am I saying this, that's because after watching the video .... NO WAY in hell on my cb7 would that throttle open or close by pressing on the cable like he did ==> which led me to think that the second cable running into the transmission is too tight ...but couldn't find the video on how to do that ( a lot of times when shifting from N to P the stick feels a little hard to push unless I lift the hand brake firstLast edited by EsperHamid; 09-15-2012, 04:45 AM.
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Originally posted by EsperHamid View Post- the debris problem turned to be OK, no problems, no oil inside.
- true gonna report when I finish these
- the video you showed me is for a manual not an automatic, mine is automatic as Eric said he will be covering this in another video but I couldn't find that video he's talking about <== why am I saying this, that's because after watching the video .... NO WAY in hell on my cb7 would that throttle open or close by pressing on the cable like he did ==> which led me to think the cable running into the transmission is too tight ...but couldn't find the video for itOriginally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Originally posted by dj_ender View PostUnfortunately I cant help you with an auto, I have zero experience with them. And after all these adjustments, you need to reset base idle/timing. Changing all these things/fixing things you need to do these and reset the ECU and get it running under the correct parameters.
remember when I said I was quite happy well the car ran like a charm ... my mpg was a lot better by 40% and the idle was too specs ......if I just went home and watched TV instead of screwing with the cable.
even with me screwing with the cable when I release the gas pedal ... it would return to normal idle 750 rpm ....also the base idle is fine 650 rpm
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Originally posted by SOHC-FTW View PostIt's not a reversed thread so right tighty lefty loosey, i would also check to make sure the keyway and where it inserts into the crank/pulley isn't wallowed out. I pulled a pulley that was wallowed out and the teeth on it were almost non existent.Originally posted by dj_ender View PostI'm not saying that...yet. We need to fix the known things first, then move onto unknown things. Get your valve lash set, adjust your cable, check/tighten the crank pulley, show us a pic of the debris you found, we can probably identify it.
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update: ( well kinda of a disaster and please bear with me cause I am a little confused .... just got the car towed back home.)
short story:
1) I was coming down a steep road on " N "
2) coolant temperature sensor got loose ( the plastic housing of the connector cracked a long time ago ) ==> coolant returned to the bottle ( above max) <== didn't know @ that time
3) when I reached the highway, I put D4 ===> heard a sound from the tranny ==> car died
4) ( time: 9pm night) battery full but car refused to start ==> lights dim ==> when I release the key ==> lights restored ==> S light blink once ==> TCU code 10 ==> clicking sound from fuse box.
5) refilled the radiator ==> but a tissue between the 2 connectors and re-inserted the connector in the sensor ==> heard clicking sound from fuse box ( under hood) and the cooling fan came on for while ( the normal ) then it was off.
6) tried to start the car ==> series of clicking sound from the engine bay ( not the fuse box ) somewhere in the center.
7) smell like something electrical burned when I was sitting in my cockpit and trying to start the car.
ANY IDEAs ??!?
long story: ( what happened before the short story )
so I adjusted the valves, added enough magnatec oil, filled the tank to half and started the car, at first a loud knocking sound could be heard but as the car idled the sound dissipated, revved up the throttle till 4500 RPM then released, the car goes back to specs idle 700-750 RPM .... so I took it for a ride, I would hear a ticking coming from underneath the driver's seat when accelerating between 2000-3500 RPM then from 3500 and up it disappears
beginning of catastrophe:
I climbed an steep up-road kinda 70 degrees angle ==> felt the car was loosing power ==> I pulled to the right and the car died, I opened the hood just to find that Plug Wire number #3 was completely up and it was all white from the inside ( original color was black ) .... the engine felt abnormally HOT !! and I pulled spark plug #3 it was severely loose, its ceramic portion was in side the metal portion and it was EXTREMELY HOT !!
I looked at the coolant bottle, the car had returned all the coolant to the bottle that it burst and coolant was under the car and yet the bottle was full ===> radiator half empty ==> I didn't mind at this time nor bothered to check coolant sensor ==> I replaced the spark plug #3( had spare ) and started the car ===> now you can continue from " SHORT STORY "
NOTE ( don't know if important ): remember when I spoke about buying new plug wires 1 page before ?! well I bought SEIWA OEM wires ( couldn't find NGK ) all 4 of them were less than 6000 OHM .....Last edited by EsperHamid; 09-16-2012, 04:54 AM.
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Ok then, watched Eric the car guy on no start video and yeah .... I, found out that I am one of those " no crank no start people " ==> Crank Shaft pulley refuses to move .. tried the pulley nut and tried the P/S pump nut and no luck ==> Found that cylinder number 4 had one of its exhaust vales the last one to be exact near the dizzy not moving even though I loosened the rocker arm till maximum ==> remove the cam-cage still no luck in turning the pulley.
as per ETCG =====> I need a new engine ?! right
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Just trying the last ray of hope before going to the mechanic tomorrow.
does the main relay look bad to you or not ?! smelled burning from it yesterday in the cockpit while I was trying to start the car also now in my hand (disconnected). I checked continuity on the tester and it sounded each time ... unless it is not the proper way to test the relay
Last edited by EsperHamid; 09-16-2012, 12:21 PM.
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the crank pulley will not move, I even remove the drive belt still will not move, is there anyway to move it or the engine is dead ?! F22a4
I re-installed the cam-cage and noticed that there no clearance at all in valves number 1-2 intake and valves number 15-16 exhaust eventhough I loosened the rockers till their max ... all others have clearance .....and the cam pulley arrow is at number 4 cylinder as well as the dizzy rotorLast edited by EsperHamid; 09-17-2012, 08:48 AM.
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