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Old 05-10-2009, 11:53 AM   #1
Gtseviper
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Calling all jdm DOHC VTEC h23a swappers

I am thinking about doing a JDM DOHC VTEC h23a swap because of what I can afford and the h23a is in my area

My car 90 accord ex f22a4

Related h23a swap links
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=129574

What are some of the issues I will run into because I looked through the h22a swap and I searched my butt off but couldn't find any ACTUAL H23A Swap guide..Please stay on topic so that who ever needs this info can easily follow the thread..I will update once your information is posted...ways we can make the thread swap clean (good example) thanks to these threads

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=h22a+swap

http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=81303

Swap Guide

Engine Harness:

Engine Mounts:

Transmission Mounts:

Clutch/Flywheel:

Axles:

Air Conditioning(A/C):

Alternator:

Power Steering:

Fuel Rail:

Exhaust:

Internal/External Coil Issues:


For 92-93 accords, your harness is wired for an externally coiled distributor.

space 1. Buy an H23 distributor(USDM h22/h23 are both external coiled, but the h22 costs more for some reason).

space 2. You can buy an aftermarket coil such as an MSD Blaster coil

Timing Belt/balancer belt/water pump/oil pump:


Buy a water pump for an F22A. It bolts on perfectly.(thanks to dbsharp)

Use an F22A oil pump.

EGR:

Water neck:

ECU:

IAB's:

TPS:

Spark Plugs/Plug Wires:

Oil Pan Gasket:

Other Gaskets:
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:46 PM   #2
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as for the whole swap is pretty much the same as an h22 swap, the only thing is the drivers side motor mount is very different from the accord, u might get away with 94-97 accord or prelude motor mount

also this engine is OBD2
u'll need an internal coil DIS (ur car being 90)

u can use ur alternator
for ur A/C, u'll have to use f22 A/C bracket and compresor

have to use ur flywheel+clutch (motor is AUTO)

be on the look out for a OBD1 h22 plenum because the IACV on this motor has 3 wires (ob1 has 2)

keep the TB, being one of the biggest TB honda made (65.86mm)
if u want to hook up ur iabs thats all to u

if u want to use the OBD2 inyectors, u'll have to cut and splice all the wires going to the resistor box

or go the easiest option and buy obd1 h22 inyectors (290cc vs 345cc)
use ur TPS, the one on the motors WILL be broken

it uses H22 header, if u have an f22 EBAY full header, u'll need just the top part only

as for ECU, if u dont have money for a chip and tune, use the JDM p13 ecu
trust me, IT WILL RUN LIKE SHIT

use accord fuel rail (h23a fuel rail has the banjo bolt on the other side)

accord f22 EGR

NO the F22 waterpump wont work, H22 will

h22 timing belt, balancer belt

h22 oil pump (why would u want to use f22?????)

oilpan u can use h22, h23, f22, f23, f20b

seals u'll have to use h22

head gasket i reccomend h22a4 or a1, being that the h23a is open deck (obd2)

thats all i can think of
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:18 PM   #3
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alright cool... thanks for putting your info
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Old 05-10-2009, 07:18 PM   #4
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If you need help with the swap, shoot me a PM. I live on the islands
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:07 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
if u want to use the OBD2 inyectors, u'll have to cut and splice all the wires going to the resistor box

or go the easiest option and buy obd1 h22 inyectors (290cc vs 345cc)
use ur TPS, the one on the motors WILL be broken


it uses H22 header, if u have an f22 EBAY full header, u'll need just the top part only
RED??? = I was wondering if you were meaning the obd1 h22 injectors are 345cc and the obd2 that are on the block are 290cc????

BLUE??? = And if I got ahold of oem h22 headers and downpipe it will work with swap??? or do I NEED to bet Aftermarket headers and downpipe?
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:09 AM   #6
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OH SHIT lol I see that he (^^^^^ PR CB7 ^^^^) is banned...damn

lol

can anyone else clarify
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:10 PM   #7
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P13 ECU is running my H23A vtec perfectly fine with great power and mileage.

I used the internals from my F22A distributor and put them in the H23A vtec distributor. Took me 15 mins and works perfectly.

The IACV was a big issue for me. You WILL need the upper half of the intake plenum off of a 93-95 prelude H23A non vtec or H22A. Try to get it with the IACV and all other bolt-ons. Keep the H23A Vtec throttle body though as it is bigger than the H22A and H23A throttle bodies.

The 92-96 H23A non vtec or H22A vtec motor mount bracket (the one that bolts through the timing cover then your F22A motor mount bolts up to) Is also a MUST.

your flywheel and clutch must be swapped as all of these H23A vtec motors are auto transmission stock. I did ACT 12lb flywheel and exedy stage one clutch and I have never enjoyed a motor more in my life. 2 very highly reccomended upgrades.

If you are going to run a P13 or want more power just get a set of H22A OBD1 injectors. This makes things go alot quicker with less modification and you have the ability to tune for more fuel and power.

I had to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator but Im sure the H22A regulator would work if you can find one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
as for the whole swap is pretty much the same as an h22 swap, the only thing is the drivers side motor mount is very different from the accord, u might get away with 94-97 accord or prelude motor mount WONT WORK

if u want to use the OBD2 inyectors, u'll have to cut and splice all the wires going to the resistor box DONT USE THEM IF U CAN AVOID

or go the easiest option and buy obd1 h22 inyectors (290cc vs 345cc)
use ur TPS, the one on the motors WILL be broken
MY TPS WAS FINE DEPENDS ON WHERE U BUY THE MOTOR


as for ECU, if u dont have money for a chip and tune, use the JDM p13 ecu
trust me, IT WILL RUN LIKE SHIT
WRONG! RUNS GREAT FOR ME!

use accord fuel rail (h23a fuel rail has the banjo bolt on the other side) WITH DIFFERENT FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TO ACHIEVE 41 PSI WITH NO VACCUM

seals u'll have to use h22 I ordered all replacement seals and belts telling them they were from a 98 H22A

head gasket i reccomend h22a4 or a1, being that the h23a is open deck (obd2) I thought all H22's were open deck??

thats all i can think of
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:13 PM   #8
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Read the stuff I quoted from our banned friend.

Also yes the stock H23A vtec injectors are 290 cc high impedience and the H22A ones are 345cc Low impedience. If you dont want to have to cut out your resistor box and rewire every injector just run H22A ones.
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:50 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loafer987 View Post
Read the stuff I quoted from our banned friend.

Also yes the stock H23A vtec injectors are 290 cc high impedience and the H22A ones are 345cc Low impedience. If you dont want to have to cut out your resistor box and rewire every injector just run H22A ones.
OK...The only thing I am worried is if I use the h23a vtec injectors (the ones that are already one the motor) it wont be as powerfull as if I swapped them out for the h22a vtec..... or is that nothing to worry about?

Also, do you think I need to change the fuel rail with it aswell (if I swap the injectors to the h22a's)? or is it no diffrerence?

Last edited by MyDianaZ06; 06-01-2009 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post
OK...The only thing I am worried is if I use the h23a vtec injectors (the ones that are already one the motor) it wont be as powerfull as if I swapped them out for the h22a vtec..... or is that nothing to worry about?

Also, do you think I need to change the fuel rail with it aswell (if I swap the injectors to the h22a's)? or is it no diffrerence?
You will have to swap the rail due to the location of the FPR on the JDm ones being opposite the USDM ones.
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Old 09-21-2013, 01:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loafer987 View Post
P13 ECU is running my H23A vtec perfectly fine with great power and mileage.

I used the internals from my F22A distributor and put them in the H23A vtec distributor. Took me 15 mins and works perfectly.

The IACV was a big issue for me. You WILL need the upper half of the intake plenum off of a 93-95 prelude H23A non vtec or H22A. Try to get it with the IACV and all other bolt-ons. Keep the H23A Vtec throttle body though as it is bigger than the H22A and H23A throttle bodies.

The 92-96 H23A non vtec or H22A vtec motor mount bracket (the one that bolts through the timing cover then your F22A motor mount bolts up to) Is also a MUST.

your flywheel and clutch must be swapped as all of these H23A vtec motors are auto transmission stock. I did ACT 12lb flywheel and exedy stage one clutch and I have never enjoyed a motor more in my life. 2 very highly reccomended upgrades.

If you are going to run a P13 or want more power just get a set of H22A OBD1 injectors. This makes things go alot quicker with less modification and you have the ability to tune for more fuel and power.

I had to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator but Im sure the H22A regulator would work if you can find one.
Is there anywhere I can find an in depth guide for this swap with pics? I looked but found non.

I know where to get cheap H23 blue tops but I need more info on this swap if I ever want to make it happen. Being that it is an OBD II engine I am a bit concerned. Can I be certain that EVERYTHING said in this post is accurate?

Another question. What is the intake gasket on this engine is it the same as the H23 in America or is it like the H22?

And wait I can't use the H23's driver side mount bracket as it is but must have an H22 or H23 US bracket?

EDIT:

Thinking it over again I am not too thrilled about making this swap or any swap in general. The labor involved to do it again after I already rebuilt my F is not exciting. I think I am going to try real hard to fix the bad oil leak it has in it.
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Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

Last edited by Mishakol129; 09-21-2013 at 02:22 AM.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:59 PM   #12
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I never got to swap out the Driver side mount but I used a 94-95 VTEC Accord mount and fits bit will have a minor tilt due to the mount is higher position. The Motor soon will be re-swapped in my new chassis so stay tuned. The ECU i'm using is a P28 chipped with Chrome with H22A SIR Base Map(Red Top).
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:23 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Alex13mod View Post
I never got to swap out the Driver side mount but I used a 94-95 VTEC Accord mount and fits bit will have a minor tilt due to the mount is higher position. The Motor soon will be re-swapped in my new chassis so stay tuned. The ECU i'm using is a P28 chipped with Chrome with H22A SIR Base Map(Red Top).
So you used the stock mount bracket and just used a Vtec accord mount? Sounds risky. I heard you can use your F22a mount I want to be sure cause I'm considering this swap.
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Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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Old 04-22-2015, 02:19 PM   #14
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crazy thread revival.

Anyways, can't remember exactly what mount combo I ended up with.
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Old 09-13-2015, 08:44 PM   #15
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bump because i need to know what timing side bracket to use. i ordered a h22a bracket from majestic honda and its the same fucking one thats on my jdm f22b dohc. neither bracket fits. what the fuck.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:08 PM   #16
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What doesn't fit about it?
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:24 PM   #17
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well i feel like a retard. after further inspection, the h22a mount does work and fit well. i just held them up together and they look REALLY similar, almost the same, but the bolt spacing is different.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:50 PM   #18
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Is your F22B DOHC an OBD2 silver top?
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:26 PM   #19
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not sure. it probably was. it had a silver valve cover on it originally. not sure if that matters obd 1/2.
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Old 09-16-2015, 12:45 AM   #20
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It's an OBD2 engine if it had a silver valve cover. That means it came from a 5th generation Prelude and explains the issue with the mount bracket.
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