help picking a motor for my brother

[ahdiofreak]

Me and my brother are trying to decide on whats the next build for his car. Just want anyone's opinion if they want to chime in and give us idea's. He has a 95 cd7.

So whatever we decide on, it will be turbo'd. We don't want anything sohc because we like the look of a dohc motor better because we still want the car to look good. And a K series is out of the question. So car our idea's have been an f22 block, with an H series head. We want to build the motor so it can properly handle boost. Not boost a stock motor til it blows. So yes pistons, rods, ect thats needed for a build. If wanted to set a goal, it would be around 17psi if possible. Just our idea's. What would be your idea's for a build? ANY thoughts or idea's are welcome. any. please. help us.

[Jarrett]

Why not build an H22A? Sleeves, pistons, rods, machine work, head studs head rebuild and you're done.

[Joey GT-R]

If wanted to set a goal, it would be around 17psi if possible.

All turbos are not created equal. 17psi on a disco potato and 17psi on a 14b are quite different in terms of power output. So maybe you should do some research on that as well.

I'm not too optimistic on the promise of this build but the first question is what is your budget? There are several non-K Series DOHC options available:

F20A
F22B
H23A
H23A1
F20B
H22A
H22A4
C30A
C32B
C35B

[h22sparkle]

What Joey gtr said. Honestly it depends on what's in your budget. Your honestly better off getting into what almost everyone has which is a decent setup from the f22 and that would be the H22.

Here's the thing though I would order it from a specific engine distrubotor. Not every engine distributor is equal. You can get yours from a reputable resource. We have a few up here in NewYork that's local.

Then there's also the one from Cali and that companies name is hmotorsonline.com they sell quality motors. Quality in this business when it comes down to parts,motors etc today are hard to find plus each of their motors are fairly decent and low in mileage since Japan has strict regulations when it comes down to emissions.

If he's concerned about boost and building it he can and may as well keep the f22 and build that since its cheap and you can find a lot of them. Just gotta find a manifold and a turbo for it.

[ahdiofreak]

Why not build an H22A? Sleeves, pistons, rods, machine work, head studs head rebuild and you're done.

We're trying to avoid sleeves if possible. He already had an h22a, so trying to use a different motor if we can. Unless if the h22a is just the best option for him too pick.

All turbos are not created equal. 17psi on a disco potato and 17psi on a 14b are quite different in terms of power output. So maybe you should do some research on that as well.

I'm not too optimistic on the promise of this build but the first question is what is your budget? There are several non-K Series DOHC options available:

F20A
F22B
H23A
H23A1
F20B
H22A
H22A4
C30A
C32B
C35B

Proabably like 4k would be a budget. This is something to plan over time, not anything thats going to be done by next month.

What Joey gtr said. Honestly it depends on what's in your budget. Your honestly better off getting into what almost everyone has which is a decent setup from the f22 and that would be the H22.

Here's the thing though I would order it from a specific engine distrubotor. Not every engine distributor is equal. You can get yours from a reputable resource. We have a few up here in NewYork that's local.

Then there's also the one from Cali and that companies name is hmotorsonline.com they sell quality motors. Quality in this business when it comes down to parts,motors etc today are hard to find plus each of their motors are fairly decent and low in mileage since Japan has strict regulations when it comes down to emissions.

If he's concerned about boost and building it he can and may as well keep the f22 and build that since its cheap and you can find a lot of them. Just gotta find a manifold and a turbo for it.

We were thinking about getting an f22 block, and wouldn't an H22 head have a better flow then an f head? We also were looking into a thread about 4g36 pistons, Seems kind of cool.

[Raf99]

Joey-GTR knows his stuff. You'll want to keep this as simple as possible to allow you to put your money where needed. The simple answer is the H22A4 as its OBDII, a great DOHC, and mostly plug and play. For a 17PSI build you are looking at a lot of money for this build to upgrade many key factors. Fuel, mounts, sleeves, rods, pistons, oil pump, piping, ECU, exhaust, ignition system, etc. There's the items people don't think of right away like front sub-frame replacement (as 3" exhaust doesn't fit between the motor and OEM front subframe), half rad, slim fans, engine gasket set, pods, wiring, tuning, ignition system, fuel pump, suspension components, or meth kits.

I'm running 17PSI on a H22A (fully built bottom end).

[Joey GT-R]

With only $4,000 for a budget I hope you're doing all the work yourself. Swapping an H22A alone would take up to 50% of your budget if "done right" in parts alone. If you're paying someone to do this the F22A is your only option.

[H311RA151N]

If it were me, I'd go all F22A if I were starting out with nothing as the end result of both the F22A and H22A will be near the same. To the extent either will need to be built and for what your using it for there is no sense in going H22. It's just more money for the same thing. The H22 will produce more power at the same boost level as an F22 due to different factors such as VTEC and compression which also is determined by the pistons you use among other things. But on the other hand a good manual boost controller is $80, you'll have them on both engines and you just turn the knob. So at that point the F22A is equal to or greater than the power output of the H22A with just a couple PSI more and a few turns of the MBC. Again, at the extent the engine will be built if it were on 17psi (1.17 bar) then 20 psi (1.38 bar) isn't going to be near enough to sacrifice any reliability.

The combinations are many with the exact scenario and outcome but the point is still the same. It's not always this way, but it can be. And it's more logical and economical. There is nothing special or difficult about putting such a build together. The same info produced by the same research to get a firm grasp around such builds will also net you the info I just provided you with.

Basically, in a fully built engine like your talking about, more boost can make up for damn near anything. More boost vs more money for the same outcome? I choose more boost. At least in this scenario. The scenario of a turbocharged street driven Accord.

Most people you see here who have a turbo H22 had their H22 in and running long before they took it back out and turbo'd it. In which that's what I'd do too. Especially as it costs $2000+ just to get your hands on one. Might as well use it.

Also, just saying you want 17psi is not very specific. What is your horsepower goal? Anything much after 300hp is near useless in a FWD application unless you plan on it being solely a strip car or to double as a strip car. To sum it up I'm referring to slicks. Slicks are needed not far after 300hp to actually put the power to the ground in a useful way.

Liking the look of a DOHC engine is no reason to choose DOHC over SOHC. DOHC VTEC is "cool" I guess and some noobs will be impressed. But what's really cool is telling the guy you just walked over you stomped his ass with an SOHC Accord engine.

I think you have a lot of research to do. I'm not putting the H22 down or anything like that. What I'm saying is the dollar to end result is better going F22. In a turbo street car, all that H22 does it get you more of a wow factor. It doesn't mean much.

4K is barely more than what I'm building currently. No way on hell you will turbo an H22 reliably for 4k. Sleeves and pistons alone cost half that.

[ahdiofreak]

You guys are right. We don't know that much about what all it takes to boost a car. And we are willing to do what it takes to learn and do it correctly. We really don't have a set goal as far as hp, and its not going to be in a daily driven car. I understand saying dohc looking better is a noob thing, but its just the personal preference of my brother. Its not going to be put on the track on the weekends, just pushed for fun every now and then. So it does need to be reliable. So 17 psi isn't safe for what were trying to do, then it can be whatever is safe for what we choose to build. Since we're still learning, we don't want to do too what is too far out of our league. Which is why we're asking for help. Lol. We've done an h22 swap before and we know what all it takes to properly do that.

I think I read a thread somewhere that h22's don't like forged internals, so thats why we were thinking to use an f22 block? Because we're trying to avoid sleeving. And thanks for your help and not just blowing me off because I'm a noob.

[H311RA151N]

You guys are right. We don't know that much about what all it takes to boost a car. And we are willing to do what it takes to learn and do it correctly. We really don't have a set goal as far as hp, and its not going to be in a daily driven car. I understand saying dohc looking better is a noob thing, but its just the personal preference of my brother. Its not going to be put on the track on the weekends, just pushed for fun every now and then. So it does need to be reliable. So 17 psi isn't safe for what were trying to do, then it can be whatever is safe for what we choose to build. Since we're still learning, we don't want to do too what is too far out of our league. Which is why we're asking for help. Lol. We've done an h22 swap before and we know what all it takes to properly do that.

I think I read a thread somewhere that h22's don't like forged internals, so thats why we were thinking to use an f22 block? Because we're trying to avoid sleeving. And thanks for your help and not just blowing me off because I'm a noob.

If your looking at H22 head on F22 block then here is a thread for you as it will require an overbore of 2mm to do "right". Which I would never do but that's just me. The reason being the F22A is 85mm and the H22 is 87mm. But, Wed3K is one smart guy and knows more than I do. . http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=152290

H22s have FRM sleeves which need to be sleeved for forged pistons or you can use Mahle Gold series pistons.

The Mahle pistons are pricey but it's cheaper than sleeving. I'd opt for that instead of the hassle and possible problems with running an H22 head on an F22 block.

You are headed in the right direction. Just take in all the info you can. If you have done an H swap then you are more than capable of doing this with the proper info and plan of attack.

[Raf99]

With only $4,000 for a budget I hope you're doing all the work yourself. Swapping an H22A alone would take up to 50% of your budget if "done right" in parts alone. If you're paying someone to do this the F22A is your only option.

Ya I didn't even see the budget her had there. $4000 will get you no-where for a 17PSI project. Add a 1 on the front of that and then you are set

[ahdiofreak]

Ya I didn't even see the budget her had there. $4000 will get you no-where for a 17PSI project. Add a 1 on the front of that and then you are set

Yeeaaaah disregard the 17psi lol

[ahdiofreak]

Any tips or advice as far as boost wise? Since we basically have a motor and pistons picked out.

[Joey GT-R]

That's a very vague question, you need to be more clear.

[h22sparkle]

To be honest if your going turbo save up a bit more and get a turbo car since its built for it. There are plenty of other options out srt4,turbo and supercharged as cobalt and other cars too.

They aren't even that expensive either just make sure they aren't beat and well maintained and can handle the power reliably and more effectively.