Crazy Bad Mileage, CB7 consuming fuel like crazy

[EsperHamid]

What you have marked as TW is the ECT, Engine Coolant Temperature sensor. And next to it is the Engine Coolant Temperature sending unit. The ECT sends the temp info to the ECU, the sending unit sends info to the temp gauge in the instrument cluster. No, it's fine where it is, mine sticks out just as far.

Thanks for the info man, great, I cleaned them with carb cleaner because of the oil leaking from the Dizzy, it should be OK I guess.

Found the fuel hose where it is marked " TANK " on the Charcoal Canister cut in half and the other part is connected to a pipe leading to the rear of the car. Why would they cut it ?!?! even though the car was drivable before.

[dj_ender]

Thanks for the info man, great, I cleaned them with carb cleaner because of the oil leaking from the Dizzy, it should be OK I guess.

Found the fuel hose where it is marked " TANK " on the Charcoal Canister cut in half and the other part is connected to a pipe leading to the rear of the car. Why would they cut it ?!?! even though the car was drivable before.

Sounds like your car has been hacked to death, I bet your going to have more work ahead of you. Keep posting up we will help where we can.

[EsperHamid]

Sounds like your car has been hacked to death, I bet your going to have more work ahead of you. Keep posting up we will help where we can.

THANKS MAN !! I really appreiciate it, without you or this forum, I wouldn't had the guts to get near my engine bay ... so what I understand is that I need to replace that red hose that goes from the charcoal canister to the Rear of the car, wait I will post a photo:

[EsperHamid]

Also is this enough gap for the EGR VALVE to function properly, cause this is the highest I could get the double pipe because it enters in the air-duct.

[dj_ender]

THANKS MAN !! I really appreiciate it, without you or this forum, I wouldn't had the guts to get near my engine bay ... so what I understand is that I need to replace that red hose that goes from the charcoal canister to the Rear of the car, wait I will post a photo:

Np, that's what we are here for. Is that hose one that is cut? If so, then yes, replace it.

Also is this enough gap for the EGR VALVE to function properly, cause this is the highest I could get the double pipe because it enters in the air-duct.

That is plenty of room, the EGR itself doesn't move. As long as you don't have something blocking the diaphragm, which is on the bottom side of the EGR, your fine.

[EsperHamid]

(reset ECU), finally started the car, ran great for the first 30 minutes and after that:
engine started to vibrate .... could it be that I overtightened the PS pump belt or driving alternator belt but then again it ran great for the first 30 minutes

in park " P "


Symptoms I noticed after that:

- water leaking from from the hose between the IACV/EACV and the FITV <== should I bleed the system following eric the car guy video ?!

- could the IACV needs cleaning again, because I previously mentioned that I soaked the throttle body with Carb cleaner and the mating holes of the IACV on the throttle body still contained carbon but can reach them inside. Could it be that I need to clean the IACV several times ?!

- the air duct contains oil ?! is it possible and how ?!

- after 30 minutes the car was having a hesitation every time i tried to move forward from a stop. I also started to get this very nasty unburnt fuel smell in the car <== during that time, I still haven't replaced the hose that was cut between the canister where it says " tank " and the pipe going at the rear of the car ==> however after opening the hood I noticed a fuel smell in the area of the canister and that area would look shinning like crystals to the eye

- of course code 12 EGR but I am leaving that project for later

[EsperHamid]

in neutral " N "

[EsperHamid]

OK so bled the cooling system as per Ericthecarguy video, the car idles to specs, didn't drive it yet because of the Power Steering pump is spitting the oil all over once I turn the car on:

- Well I overhauled the pump as per the manual, made sure that everything is in place, by hand the pump turns and spits oil through the high pressure opening as supposed to,
but when I try to install it, I notice that the OIL SEAL around the pump shaft always come off when I turn on the car and the Pump spits the oil everywhere.

- before when I took the car for a drive like in the above post, the pump leaked but didn't spit oil.

- am I using honda genuine PSF <== well no !! it should leak maybe because of the difference in viscosity but it should NOT pop out the oil seal and spit oil everywhere.

- The seal does NOT look damaged and made sure I pushed it inside as per the repair manual

- is there anything that should be installed with the oil seal or something ?!

[EsperHamid]

OK so bled the cooling system as per Ericthecarguy video, the car idles to specs, didn't drive it yet because of the Power Steering pump is spitting the oil all over once I turn the car on:

- Well I overhauled the pump as per the manual, made sure that everything is in place, by hand the pump turns and spits oil through the high pressure opening as supposed to,
but when I try to install it, I notice that the OIL SEAL around the pump shaft always come off when I turn on the car and the Pump spits the oil everywhere.

- before when I took the car for a drive like in the above post, the pump leaked but didn't spit oil.

- am I using honda genuine PSF <== well no !! it should leak maybe because of the difference in viscosity but it should NOT pop out the oil seal and spit oil everywhere.

- The seal does NOT look damaged and made sure I pushed it inside as per the repair manual

- is there anything that should be installed with the oil seal or something ?!

solved this problem, had the location of the plungers inside the pump swapped gonna get HONDA psf whenever I have time

[EsperHamid]

update:
so I re-removed the valve cover today to replace the broken 12mm bolt from the cam-cage.

I noticed at the same time, that oil was still seeping into spark plug number 3 cylinder even though I've changed the lower seals.

Now, I've just finished torquing the bolts, non-broken bolts, this time I did it with a T-wrench socket 12mm and T-wrench socket 10 mm. Everything looks tight and the cam-cage looks like it mates the rest of the cylinder head as it should, HOWEVER,
after removing the spark plugs to do valves adjustment, I slipped my finger inside the spark plug holes (all 4 of them) and logically the SP hole portion of the cam-cage should feel flush with the SP hole portion of the Cylinder Head right ?! well it is not, I can feel a slight mismatch in plug hole number 1 then this mismatch rises gradually with number 2 - 3 - 4. reminder: From outside the cam-cage seems to mate the cylinder head

so now I have two assumptions, if the above mismatch is something normal and it isn't the cause of the oil leak, then I'm left with the valve cover o-rings as the culprit.

Any feedback is mostly appreciated because according ( LOL ) to your feedback, either I will proceed with valve adjustment and replace valve cover o-rings ...... or I re-remove the cam-cage for the 10th time since I've started this thread

[EsperHamid]

so since I got no reply , I proceeded with valves adjustment and I am going to put back the valve cover with new o-rings and cover gasket, so should I put RTV on it or not ?!??!?!?! I've been told to do so but I trust this forum more LOL

[eightyfour84]

so since I got no reply , I proceeded with valves adjustment and I am going to put back the valve cover with new o-rings and cover gasket, so should I put RTV on it or not ?!??!?!?! I've been told to do so but I trust this forum more LOL

I used Honda seals and no RTV and have had no more leaks in the spark tubes.

[10thAnnivCB7]

^ Like he said ,, those seals should be good enough and if you leaks then that's something else you will have to firgure out.

[EsperHamid]

I used Honda seals and no RTV and have had no more leaks in the spark tubes.

great !! so the bit of offset between the SP portion of the camcage and the cylinderhead portion is not a problem so from what I understand the only leaks inside the tubes come either from the valve cover rings or the camcage lower rings and nowhere else, right?

[EsperHamid]

DJ_Ender opinion ??