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    #91
    Hey guys just want to make sure I understand the following info. You need to swap over the front bracket From the f22 to the h22 engine in order to use the front torque mount? Thanks in advance.

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      #92
      That's what I did. Fits perfectly.

      Accord Aero-R

      Comment


        #93
        Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
        That's what I did. Fits perfectly.
        Thank you sir, thanks for the input.

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          #94
          My next big move will be to get a manual coupe to move my H-swap and everything else over to. Is it just the ECU I need to worry about replacing with a manual one? I have ESP mounts on my auto setup, so of course I'll need the manual tranny mount to keep using them (using an Accord tranny, so no drilling/tapping yet); and I'll get an H22 p/s line since I want that system back in, as well as a new OE-spec clutch kit for a bit of preventative maintenance, but am I forgetting anything needed to get it driving?

          Accord Aero-R

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            #95
            Removal / Installation ...

            Can I swap the engine and transmission through the bottom of the car with it jacked up in the air for removal of the F and installation of the H, and if this way does work, will I have to remove the cross beam for this way to work?
            The Lord watches over me!

            "Stop punching down on my people!!!"

            - D. Chappelle

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              #96
              Originally posted by Straight Success View Post
              Can I swap the engine and transmission through the bottom of the car with it jacked up in the air for removal of the F and installation of the H, and if this way does work, will I have to remove the cross beam for this way to work?
              Ive never done that, but the entire cradle is installed that way so it can be done.

              I pulled the front off the car and walked it out that way. Its really not that bad. Maybe 2 hours worth of bullshit for a really easy venue to handle shit.
              Originally posted by wed3k
              im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

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                #97
                Is there REALLY supposed to be an empty space in the plug for A17? Cause right where I THINK is A17 there is a pink and blue wire sticking out of

                The only place where a blank space is that I believe is A17 is when I flip the entire diagram upside down so that what was on the right and the top is now on the left and on the bottom... I put my pin for the IAB's there but who knows if its the right one?

                Car came with the A1 btw.
                “Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
                ― Jeremy Clarkson




                Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755


                Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:

                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144

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                  #98
                  I just swapped my accord tranny for a t2t4. It fits but the passenger tranny mount that I have (innovative mount for a cb7 w/a h22 swap) does not. The mount is "too short" to bolt up to the accord mount location. Basically the mount needs to be taller, well seems it needs to be. Does anyone have any insight?

                  Comment


                    #99
                    i found out that the passenger side t2t4 tranny mount is taller/longer than the h22 mount. well looks like im gonnna have to buy another mount.

                    Comment


                      Was your car originally an automatic?
                      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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                        Originally posted by Jarrett View Post
                        Was your car originally an automatic?
                        no

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                          Anyone figure out the shift lock issue yet?

                          This does not work. (As stated by others)

                          Auto Tranny, Using the Prelude auto tranny and TCU:
                          Courtsey of JWise1203:

                          To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controller. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on the TCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs.

                          And unfortunately this also does not work. All I got was a blinking D4

                          Originally posted by CyborgGT View Post
                          ^ For the sake of future readers not having to search around: the solution was to go to the TCU plugs. Cut the GRN/WHT and WHT/GRN wires or de-pin them from the TCU, then splice them together on the harness side (i.e. don't make a jumper from one TCU plug to the other). No running of wire from the shifter position switch to TCU pin A7. I think this really needs to be added to that section regarding using the automatic transmission and TCU.

                          However after rereading it to post this, Im even more confused. I spliced the GRN/WHT wire to the WHT/GRN wire on plug A chassis side (so i cut them and tied them together)

                          "dont make a jumper from one tcu plug to the other"

                          ok.. so I went and looked again a second ago and both A & B have GRN/WHT and WHT/GRN..

                          Can you elaborate please cyborg

                          Thanks

                          Comment


                            It's been a little over two years since I've had my car, and I didn't take pictures. I'm starting to doubt myself and think I had both of those wiring mods done at the same time. What year is your car? Mine was a '92; I have the factory service manual for that year, so I can double-check the schematics, but I remember the wires going into the TCU all being different colors. I took notes on paper way back, so I'll look around and see if I still have them; maybe I wrote down what I did to work.

                            *ED. - notes found; see my next post
                            Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-12-2015, 10:32 PM.

                            Accord Aero-R

                            Comment


                              here you go:

                              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...085#post703946

                              there are three wiring issues to look out while doing the 5spd swap... if you dont have to deal with actual vehicle inspections, you could get away without hooking up the neutral safety switch, but its usually recommended that you do. but anyway, heres what you need to deal with:

                              #1. making the car think that the shifter is in park
                              when you removed the auto shifter, u disconnected a big grey plug. snip the black and green/white wires and connect them together. in the picture, i had cut the matching reverse harness off of the shifter, leaving enough wire to splice to.

                              #2. hooking up the reverse lights
                              on top of the tranny is a reverse lights switch, it has a yellow and a green/black wire. they need to be connected directly to the wires of the same color on the shifter connector. agian, in the picture you can see two black wires coming from the right gegtting spliced in. they run through a hole in the firewall and connect to the wires on top of the transmission.

                              #3. neutral safety switch
                              there was a brown 2-pin connector that went to the old shifter. the easy way to do it is cut the connector off and splice the two thick wires together (solder them!). or if you need to do it the "right" way to pass inspection, follow the diagram below. the "clutch interlock switch" is the switch that gets pressed when the pedal is put all the way to the floor, it has a yellow 2 pin connector. wire colors are indicated in the diagram.





                              - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                              - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                              - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                              - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                              - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                              - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                              - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                              - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                              Current cars:
                              - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                              - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                              Comment


                                Erik, are you running a pure automatic setup or an auto-to-manual conversion?

                                At any rate, I found that I had adjusted the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual. For a full automatic-to-automatic H22 car, this is what I did. The "X" marks the spots where I cut the wires (TCU pins A3 and A18) and mated them before ever reaching the TCU:

                                Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-12-2015, 10:34 PM.

                                Accord Aero-R

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