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ENG: Oil Pan Gasket- Clearing up some Confusion

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    ENG: Oil Pan Gasket- Clearing up some Confusion

    I know there are a few threads that talk about the oil pan gasket and what fun it is to change. I did mine today, 3-4 hours not so bad, BUT there was a lot left out in the other posts. Even Shop-Key was less than helpful.

    Same thing, I'm no expert Mechanic, but was able to do this in a few hours - Start to Clean up - But if you forget to refill the oil, or otherwise blow up your car - Its not MY fault.

    A little background on my CB - '90 EX 5-speed (there, very little)

    First - The tail pipe DOES need to be removed. This was breifly stated in Shop Key and in a thread here. I sprayed the hell outta the nuts connecting the exhaust mani & the tail pipe w/ WD-40, waited 20 minutes and used a breaker bar to pop those suckers off. Unfortunately, that leaves a lot of residue on the mani when you start it up later and allows for a nice smoke show.

    Second - the engine crossbar, dogbone looking thing that runs under the oil pan also has to come off.

    Oh - Dont forget to drain the oil & replace the filter...

    Now that those are off, Haynes & Shop-Key would have think that a few bolts pulled and the oil pan just comes off, not so fast... there is a dust plate covering the flywheel that has to come off (at least there is on the EX) that is in the way of the oil pan by about a 1/2 inch. There are three bolts in that plate, one of which is hidden behind another small crossbar, about 6" long w/ 3 bolts (both of these pieces are on the passenger side near the front of the oil pan)

    Now that all that crap is out of the way you can drop the pan, scrape, pull, and tear the old gasket out. Clean up (mostly so you can see the new leaks when you tighten the new gasket down to far) and then put the new gasket on, replace the pan, dust cover, small crossbar, engine crossbar, and tail pipe. Clean off the WD-40 and you should be good to go.

    Its not that hard, I just wanted to add the few extra steps that Haynes & Shop-Key left out. I don't have a Chiltons so I may be a better write up in there. Sorry no pics either, I didn't have the camera handy & its off the jack stands now.
    Last edited by 4thGen_Jonny; 11-11-2005, 10:13 PM.
    Originally posted by Michalob
    I was driving along today and the check engine light came on. I pulled over and looked under the hood. The engine was still there... silly light!

    #2
    i might add, be sure to not overtighten...i went through 2 oil pan gaskets in 1 day. can someone please post the specs for the oil pan nuts


    Formerly 91AccordExR33
    11.68 @ 127mph
    417whp/375wtq
    Sold: 8/2016

    Comment


      #3
      I think some clarification needs to be made ...

      Originally Posted by 4thGen_Jonny
      ... replace the pan, dust cover, small crossbar, engine crossbar, and tail pipe. Clean off the WD-40 and you should be good to go ...
      1) When you say "engine crossbar" you mean "center beam" (that connects the front cross member and rear cross member together with 3x bolts in the front and 2x bolts in the rear, right?

      2) When you say "tail pipe" you mean the "downpipe/flexpipe" (that connects the header/exhaust manifold to the catalytic converter), right?

      Well just so that's clear - I think it's important to mention (correct me if I'm wrong). Other than that I would also add:


      *** Consider replacing the crush washer for the oil pan
      F22 & H22 ~ Honda P/N: 94109-14000 (14MM)

      Torque specs for the oil drain bolt is 33 lb. - ft.
      Torque specs for the oil pan bolts is 9 lb. - ft. (Note: oil pan bolts should be tighten-down in a crisscross order starting from the middle back passenger side radiating outwards - based on the HELMS manual that is)


      *** Consider replacing both gaskets for the downpipe/flexpipe
      F22 (EX, SE only?) Front Exhaust Gasket ~ Honda P/N: 18212-SB2-961
      F22 Rear Exhaust Gasket ~ Honda P/N: 18393-SH3-S00

      H22 Front Exhaust Gasket ~ Honda P/N: 18212-SB2-961* (Same as above)
      H22 Rear Exhaust Gasket ~ Honda P/N: 18212-671-003


      *** Torque down specs (should be same for both F22/H22):
      Downpipe Bolts (from exhaust mani) = 40 lb. - ft.
      Flexpipe -> cat. Bolts = 25 lb. - ft.
      Attached Files
      Last edited by cyclonus_cb7; 11-12-2005, 02:02 AM.
      www.StreetLightz.com

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by 91accordexr33
        i might add, be sure to not overtighten...i went through 2 oil pan gaskets in 1 day. can someone please post the specs for the oil pan nuts
        Yes, Yes and Yes, TY cyclonus_cb7 for clearing that up. I was using the language from Haynes & Shop-Key. See where the confusion comes from.

        Haynes says 120 Inch Lbs for the oil pan bolts I dont know how that translates into Ft Lbs -Prolly around 9. I also replaced the o-rings in the flex pipe to exhaust mani connection. Good Call.
        Last edited by 4thGen_Jonny; 11-12-2005, 11:40 AM.
        Originally posted by Michalob
        I was driving along today and the check engine light came on. I pulled over and looked under the hood. The engine was still there... silly light!

        Comment


          #5
          every foot pound is 12 inch pounds, so 120 would be 10 foot pounds

          Comment


            #6
            Something you dont want to forget is the gasket sealer on the two corners of the gasket where it goes around the crank bubble for lack of better words. (on the two ends)

            A good reference to tightening down the gasket, get them all snug, and then tighten them down until the gasket squeezes out and lines up with the edge of the oil pan/block. So you dont want a dip between the oil pan and the block, but you dont want a bulge either, or much of one, since its then overtightened.

            And if you want to try beating how many times I did it in a short period, I changed it 4 times in 1000miles. Thought i kept messing up the gasket, but ended up being a bent pan. I replaced the oil each of those times since I didnt think to drain it into a clean container and re=use it.

            My engine actually has about 12k on it since january, and I have changed the oil I think 12 times.... going to try to not break anything for 3k miles for a while.

            Comment


              #7
              Coool


              MY 1n2 CB7

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