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Old 06-30-2013, 11:33 PM   #21
Jarrett
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You're right, I got them mixed up. And I am going with the F23 pulley. Before I install it I'll weigh both it and the F22A pulley to see what the difference is. It could be a pretty easy mod for people. Every '98-'02 Accord you see in the junkyards has the engine partially dropped because someone's already taken the automatic transmission so the pulley is easy to get to.
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Old 07-01-2013, 05:13 AM   #22
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So are you using the compressor from the DC5, the RC17D? If so you have to swap the back plate with the one from your CB7 to make it compatible with your EX freon plumbing.

I never noticed that at the yards about the '98-'02 accords not having A/T, guess I'm not paying close enough attention.
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:17 PM   #23
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i have a couple of Qs

as far as i know the aluminum part of the girdle of the f23 only fits the f23, it uses about 10-12 10mm bolts

changing the girdle of a block w/o line boring the surfaces will lead o
to misalingment of block and girdle bores

i know you're set on the f20b head, but you cant ignore the smaller valves

why dont you use thw f20b/h23v/euror crank pulley
you keeping ps?
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 07-01-2013, 11:14 PM   #24
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The main caps separate from the girdle so they'll still be mated to the same surface they originally were.

And even though all of the bolt holes won't be filled in the girdle, all of the bolt holes in the block will. So no less attachment will be made between this girdle and the block than what was there with the F20B girdle.

I'm not ignoring the smaller valves. In fact, I have a spare H22A head I'm thinking about nabbing the valves from for the F20B head. Low end power is more of the focus here than high RPM breathing, though. Not to say your point isn't valid for my purposes, only that I may choose to spend that money on my main build instead of this one.

I will have power steering in every vehicle I own over 2500 pounds from this point forward. I had no power steering on my previous Accord back in high school and it just doesn't suit me these days. So I sold the single-row pulley I had.
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:10 PM   #25
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are you planning on line boring the mains?
if not i dont think swaping girdles is a.good idea
i can tell you this from experience
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Old 07-03-2013, 08:37 PM   #26
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I'm not. It's an option that I've been given a price on by the machine shop ($120) but with the ability to use the exact same main caps that were on it before, and the flexibility of getting the exact bearing clearances I need from Honda's offerings it doesn't seem prudent.

What exactly were the issues you had?

And sorry for not having pictures up yet. This has been a busy week at work and I just had a chance to go by there today. I called to ask if I could come get it at 4:00 and he said I could. I get there at 4:10 and he's walking out the door and doesn't want to go back inside. I'm going back home for a few days so it will have to be a next Monday thing at this point.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:19 AM   #27
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overlapping of the caps

dont think the.maincaps of the f23 are stronger, because they're not
worry mainly on rod clearences
you dont have.to worry about the mains as long clearences are met
keep block's caps and you should be good
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Just do what PR CB7 said.

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Old 07-12-2013, 09:25 AM   #28
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stilllllllll waiting for block porn......


Come on man, give us some nudes
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im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:27 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PR CB7 View Post
overlapping of the caps

dont think the.maincaps of the f23 are stronger, because they're not
worry mainly on rod clearences
you dont have.to worry about the mains as long clearences are met
keep block's caps and you should be good
I'm confused. I'm not using the F23A caps. I'm usin the F23A girdle from which the caps are separated. The F20B caps are what I'm using to match the F20B block.

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stilllllllll waiting for block porn......


Come on man, give us some nudes
It's funny that you say this now. It's sitting in my passenger seat of my work truck wrapped in plastic. I just picked it up this morning. Pictures will be up tonight.
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Old 07-12-2013, 01:43 PM   #30
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Quote:
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It's funny that you say this now. It's sitting in my passenger seat of my work truck wrapped in plastic. I just picked it up this morning. Pictures will be up tonight.
LOL, I want a picture of your passenger... Naked passenger at that!
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:21 AM   #31
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Alright, here she is at home.



Unwrapped partially.



Cross-hatching seems to be done pretty well.



This is the underside of the damaged cylinder prior to the overbore.



Here's the underside of the damaged cylinder after bore.



The outside of the block after the weld repair. It doesn't have to look pretty as it's just a tiny hole that was welded up. It's also going to be covered by the rear engine mount bracket. I would have preferred them to have cleaned it a little more first. I suppose I could have pressure washed it myself before taking it to him at least, though.



Pretty pistons.



Factory gas ports.



Assembly pictures will come when I get new bearings. I have the factory bearings that I'll use to gauge what new sizes I'll need. No work was done to the F23A1 crankshaft other than cleaning and oiling it so bearings should be fairly close to standard sizes. I'll be going with OEM Honda, though, so I want the measurements to be perfect.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:55 AM   #32
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I wish had more understanding how this engine stuff works, sounds like you know what to do. Can't wait to see this build!
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Old 07-13-2013, 05:58 PM   #33
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My deck heights at all 4 corners were 8.646", 8.648", 8.645" and 8.646" before resurfacing. Afterward they were 8.639", 8.642", 8.640" and 8.641". That works out to roughly a .006" reduction in deck height. With the 4.25cc PRB pistons that should make for an 11.73:1 CR before any head resurfacing. Since the F20B pistons come out of the bore .020" in a factory setup I'm okay taking a bit of material off the head as my setup should be fairly even with the deck.
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:22 AM   #34
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I cleaned the rods up to get them ready also.








I cleaned up the main bearings a bit so that I could install the crank and measure for clearances but I decided not to as the block still has shavings in it from being bored out. So, I'm going to take it home and power wash the whole thing, inside and out. The outside needs it anyway.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:15 AM   #35
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Now that there is sexy, I'm surprised they didn't clean it before giving it back to you.
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Old 07-15-2013, 09:29 AM   #36
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Meh, seems average for machine work.


Great shops give you stuff back spotless, but charge premium. I'd be a bit upset about no hot tank after bore personally.


Pics don't look bad. Good starting point at least.


to you.
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:20 PM   #37
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maybe you could find a local bolt and screw place that could custom make you some bolts?

Fastenal has a few companies in the Texas area you could try them?
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:19 PM   #38
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Quote:
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maybe you could find a local bolt and screw place that could custom make you some bolts?

Fastenal has a few companies in the Texas area you could try them?
I've got new OEM bolts and the pistons I'm using are significantly lighter than the ones that these bolts were designed in conjunction with. I'm not going to be revving this very high so I'm content.


I power washed the block this weekend and got more stuff in the mail. I have some ACL Race bearings to use to take measurements from to get the correct clearances. If I'm able to achieve appropriate clearances with these I may just use them. Any bearings that need addressing I may just replace individually. We'll see.

Also, it seems PR CB7 was right about the girdle. Two of the bolts lined up perfectly but the others were somewhat off. I could have redrilled holes into the girdle to send a bolt through but I decided that it was no longer worth it.

I've got my lower seals, gaskets, oil pump and new hardware in. I forgot to grab one of my rear main seal covers at my parent's house but I'll survive. I'll also now need to take my girdle from my F22A to use on this build. Oddly enough, the F20B didn't come with an oil cooler so I'm integrating an OEM cooler in this as well.

I'll post pictures whenever I have a chance to get some assembly done.
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Old 08-06-2013, 08:16 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Meh, seems average for machine work.


Great shops give you stuff back spotless, but charge premium. I'd be a bit upset about no hot tank after bore personally.


Pics don't look bad. Good starting point at least.


to you.
completely agree. my shop even has a tool to measure ra finishes on the hone as well.
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