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    Misfire/backfire issues.

    So recently I started having an issue with my H22A. Under light throttle or when the car is cold, the engine will misfire. An example would be when you get back on the throttle after shifting gears (light throttle, light load) I'll experience the misfire for a second or so then it smooth's back out, similar to the sound of a car with a DSG transmission. Under heavy acceleration I can experience a backfire amongst the misfires. None of this seems to be consistent with rpm or engine temp.

    Thinking I had a compression issue, I performed a check. All cylinders are aprx. within the 10% spec of each other with the highest being 205psi and the lowest around 187psi. I went ahead and installed new plugs, same brand and type as what was in the car before the issue began. My plug wires were on the old side, about a decade old or more, so I grabbed a new set of NGK wires. The issue still exists. My AFR is well within what I'm used to seeing when the issue occurs so I'm leaning away from it being a dirty injector, as I've experienced, diagnosed, and repaired that issue in the past.

    After talking with a few friends and coworkers, I'm leaning towards my internal coil starting to go bad, though I haven't gotten any hard diag info from anyone. I also don't know how common an internal coil failure is and whether or not it would be a good idea to swap to an external coil setup. I'm still running the stock single cam engine harness so the change over wouldn't be that difficult. I am currently running the stock P13 ECM.
    Last edited by Mike1357; 01-08-2020, 01:39 AM.

    #2
    Not mechanical.
    Not fuel.
    Must be ignition. Did you replace the cap and rotor? Did you check the resistance of the coil?

    YouTube Clicky!!

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      #3
      The cap and rotor are about a year old at most, but no, I haven't replaced it again. I suppose I should pop it open tonight.

      How should I be checking the resistance of the coil (like which point to which) and what is considered within spec?

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        #4
        I’ve had internal and external coils go out on me a couple times. One slowly faded away and the others when straight dead. There is no need to convert to external unless you have a coil blaster, external cap, and plug laying around. Internal coils aren’t hard to replace. The hardest part is trying to undo the screws without stripping them. Then if you strip them you can just use vise grips.

        When I first started reading, my mind went straight to plugs, since you’ve replaced those along with wires and a fairly new cap and rotor I’m betting it’s the coil.
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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          #5
          A buddy of mine does face a 6AL for sale so all I would need is the blaster coil and an external coil dizzy.

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            #6
            If it’s cheaper then a coil go for it. But there is no need for the extra juice.
            ~Nick~
            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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              #7
              So I opened up the dizzy today. The coil's resistance is 0.9ohms but it is visibly swollen a little and you can see a few stress cracks in the plastic. The inner shaft seal is also beginning to leak so I may go the route of just getting a new distributor or buying an internal to external conversion cap and a blaster coil.

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                #8
                Converted the car over to external coil today using a MSD cap, Blaster SS coil and a 6AL to drive it all. Took it for a short drive, still had a little miss here and there when getting back on throttle after shifting gears but nothing under load or cruising. Coming in to park it I made one short 1st gear pull and while coming to a stop the car shut off. Can't get it started again. Took apart the distributor thinking my connections came loose or something but everything is as it should be. When cranking, the car fires once then nothing. The only other thing that comes to mind is the trigger box inside the distributor. Anyone had any experience with those? I believe they exist in both internal and external coil dizzys.

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                  #9
                  same thing happened in my Lude. It would start once then die. Ended up being a crank sensor issue..

                  YouTube Clicky!!

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                    #10
                    Obd1 so I have no crank sensor that I'm aware of?

                    The car start and ran for a minute or two yesterday. I started and drove the car home this morning without any incident. Drove it to the gas station and I couldn't get it started after fueling. Performed all the checks MSD suggests and it looks like either the box or the brand new coil is bad. Luckily I had the old parts and a few cave man tools in the car so I miraculously managed to convert it back to internal coil to get me home. This particular issue seems to be related to the MSD stuff but the backfire/misfire still exists with both setups. Called Honda today trying to buy a new OEM ignition control module but they say it's on backorder and most likely about to be discontinued. Come Friday I'm going to attempt to purchase a new module from Majestic Honda and tomorrow I have a friend that has another MSD ignition box and a spare coil. The fact that I only lose spark after the car heats up is really throwing me for one but I'll blame that on the MSD stuff.
                    Last edited by Mike1357; 01-20-2020, 06:53 PM.

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                      #11
                      I believe our crank sensor is in the dizzy. Not really a crank sensor but it is all those magnets inside the dizzy. The guts per say.
                      ~Nick~
                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                        #12
                        So now here is my next question, if I am going to be replacing the distributor, what distributor should I get?

                        I have the ability to purchase an OEM Civic distributor housing and igniter, and then just use my MSD cap. I know the caps and rotors are the same for the Civic and the JDM H22 but I'm not sure if the Civic housing is the same as the JDM H22 housing. If they are the same then that is probably the route that I will go.

                        If the housing is not the same, then I guess I would need to purchase a USDM H22 distributor and just call it a loss on the MSD cap?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mike1357 View Post
                          So now here is my next question, if I am going to be replacing the distributor, what distributor should I get?

                          I have the ability to purchase an OEM Civic distributor housing and igniter, and then just use my MSD cap. I know the caps and rotors are the same for the Civic and the JDM H22 but I'm not sure if the Civic housing is the same as the JDM H22 housing. If they are the same then that is probably the route that I will go.

                          If the housing is not the same, then I guess I would need to purchase a USDM H22 distributor and just call it a loss on the MSD cap?
                          Biggest thing is the mounting points. What civic are you referring too?
                          ~Nick~
                          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                            #14
                            I think the range is from 90-97 Civics with either D series engine.

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                              #15
                              Ya, thinking the misfire is not related to the distributor as it happens in both scenarios. Do you know your A/F ratio in these scenarios?

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