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S Light Mystery ????

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    S Light Mystery ????

    Ok, so before I get chewed out, I have already read KeeleDesign's Auto Tranny FAQ and I have searched high and low for the answer to my specific issue.

    My car seems to shift fine, the transmission was just rebuilt however, the S light comes on but only SOMETIMES. When it does, it flashes rapidly and constantly. My interpretation of the codes listed is that this is code 1 and that would indicate a problem with Lock-up control solenoid valve A. I am no mechanic so I am very cautious about doing ANYTHING especially anything electrical and/or transmission related, but I can never seem to get it to the mechanic when its flashing and when checked otherwise, it doesn't indicate any issues. Most places I've looked associate shift issues with the S light flashing which I don't (seem) to have.

    If this IS the issue, would it be safe to say I should change the TCM as well? Does anyone know what part # this solenoid is? I already know which TCM to get.

    I know I may have answered my own question here, but I can't really throw a lot of unnecessary $$$ into this thing ATM but I dont want to risk chewing up the transmission over a $150 part.

    Thank you all in advance.

    #2
    did you jump the service connector when pulling the code?

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      #3
      I did. It blinked 12 for "No Code". Like I said, sometimes it flashes sometimes it doesn't. More recently, it came on solid regardless of whether the S button was pressed or not. However, upon restarting it is once again off. Im thinking a solenoid wire may just be loose?

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        #4
        It may be a loose connection somewhere, or it may be a failing TCU. You can take the cover off the TCU itself and inspect the board for damage (burnt or leaking capacitors are the most commonly seen damage.) TCUs have been going bad on these cars for many years now... and the older they get, the more likely it's going to continue happening. They can be repaired by anyone with rudimentary electronics soldering knowledge, or you can replace it with a rebuilt unit sourced elsewhere. OR take your chances with a used part.






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          #5
          That's pretty much what I figured. I already ordered a rebuilt EX TCM to go with my P12 I recently bought. Should be arriving today and if I can feel my fingers through this freaky NY weather I'll be swapping it out today and I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thanks a lot!

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            #6
            Well, it was exactly what I thought. The TCM was bad. Oddly enough, I opened it up and didnt see any leaks but the rebuilt EX transmission has her making solid shifts and theres no more flashing "S light", not to mention it pairs great with the new P12 I threw in while I was at it.

            Does anyone have any suggestions to prevent it from getting cooked again?

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              #7
              I'm not sure that it's preventable. It seems to happen regularly on the CB and on rebuilt TCUs as well. It's something that seems inevitable. I wonder how million mile joe overcame this in his cb because he was on the original drivetrain with almost all original parts.
              Last edited by ThatOneAccord; 03-13-2014, 02:19 PM.

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                #8
                What's a p12? If you don't mind me asking?

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                  #9
                  ECU. Engine computer. It's for the F22A1, but comes from the 92-95 Prelude S (which came with the same F22A1 that all LX and DX CB Accords come with... but thanks to the ECU, it makes about 10hp more.)






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                    #10
                    Originally posted by ThatOneAccord View Post
                    I'm not sure that it's preventable. It seems to happen regularly on the CB and on rebuilt TCUs as well. It's something that seems inevitable. I wonder how million mile joe overcame this in his cb because he was on the original drivetrain with almost all original parts.
                    It's preventable. It's kind of iffy to some people that are skeptical about not using the exact part to replace a failed part though. There are two ways to prevent it from happening. 1.) using different level uF (microferad) capacitors. Depending on the OEM uF level, you can usually go higher, because the majority of the capacitors on your TCU work as filter capacitors. There is one though that is 1uF... You can't really go much higher so that one needs to remain at 1uF. BE SURE THAT THE VOLTAGE & TEMPERATURE RATING MATCHES THOUGH! I can't remember which ones I put in the few that I have done but when I find my notes somewhere I will try to post it if anyone is interested. 2.) Making sure to buy different brand capacitors. Many of the exact same uF and V level capacitors you buy online or in rinky dink electronic stores, believe it or not aren't much newer than the ones in your TCU which fail due to two problems. The first was a manufacturing defect in one of the capacitors which causes a chain reaction of sort to two resistors and four other capacitors AND MORE if not caught soon enough. The gel in the capacitor will leak onto the board and damage components. I'll be doing a write up for how to repair these, which components to replace, and what to use to replace as soon as I order the rest of the components I need. (I have just been lazy.)
                    Last edited by Rezz; 03-16-2014, 10:14 AM.

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                      #11
                      I suggest going to sites like this one...

                      http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/capacitors

                      It's a US company so shipping would be faster and you click on what type of capacitor you want to search for then narrow down your results as specific as you want to.

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