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Old 06-21-2008, 12:12 AM   #1
cvc7chris
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ENG: Oil Pan Removal and Replacement "Pix"

Okay i had to Change my Oil Pan recently and i see why not make a DIY with pictures that might Help someone.

Ok you can get Oil pans from Autozone or Ebay for $60-$200 Depending to what you go with i went and bought an OEM Autozone One and a Oil Pan Gasket to go with it.

Tools
-Just a good Set of Wrenches and Sockets with Long Extensions.
-Time
-Balls



1. Jack the Car up Securely on Jack stands.


2.Drain the Oil


3.Remove the Cross member



4.You have to move the Exhaust out of the way. I did mine from here (wd-40 & Muscle)


and you have 2 More Screws that hold the Exhaust up to the Block, Near the Oil pan (sorry no pic) you can Find them. Remove Those too. Now the Exhaust SHOULD be out of your Way.
And take 3 Screws out Holding this Metal Flywheel Cover which will hold up one side of your oil pan..the picture shows where the screws are..it shouldn't take a rocket scientist to Figure it out


5.Remove all the Screws Securing the Oil pan it's like 10-15 of them(No pic)

6.Should Almost drop down (Be careful the Oil Dipstick Thing mine be in the way i would take it out before Starting to Remove the Oil pan)

^^Nasty^^

7.Clean up any Old Remains of Gasket (according to Haynes)


8.Get your New Oil pan Ready (Put some RTV Sealant "Haynes") I didn't on mine.

9.Installation is Reverse Order. You can put New oil once your done. i didn't because i had just done an oil change a few days Before.

Thanks.. I searched couldn't find a Oil pan DIY..so i guess it's good right?
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Last edited by cvc7chris; 06-21-2008 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 06-21-2008, 12:56 AM   #2
minoreparations
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looks like your oil pickup got banged up too.

i did my oil pan while it was on the engine hoist.
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Old 06-21-2008, 12:58 AM   #3
benjerman112
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Okay i did all that and still the pan wont drop i was told it might be HONDA BOND what do i do know?
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Old 06-21-2008, 01:03 AM   #4
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yea sometimes the Sealant will keep it stuck

someone told me to like bang it with something..a hammer lightly or something
not sure though..
mine just dropped. make sure theres nothing in the way..

you do have to remove this metal thing with 3 screws that goes on the oposite side from where the Screw is on the oil pan..

it's easy why i forgot about (damn i have no pic of that)
Edit:
These are the 3 screws...that i took off before i took the oil pan out..it's a Metal Flywheel Cover it will hold up one side of you oil pan
unless you take it out
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Last edited by cvc7chris; 06-21-2008 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 06-21-2008, 01:09 AM   #5
minoreparations
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thats the flywheel cover you're talking about.
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Old 06-21-2008, 01:10 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minoreparations View Post
thats the flywheel cover you're talking about.
yea =)

Im not a Mechanic..i don't know all these parts names haha..
i just knew it had to be removed..i was scared oil or something would drop out haha
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Old 06-21-2008, 01:55 AM   #7
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How tight did you torque the pan bolts to? I know that if you just use gasket maker its 10ft lbs but if you were to tighten a rubber gasket that tight it would split and push out the edges, I would know! lol
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:21 AM   #8
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I got tired of the rubber gasket splitting so I replaced my oil pan with an aluminum oem h22 oil pan that uses rtv to seal against the block with a tiny rubber gasket that goes in the back curved portion of the oil pan. Here is a pic of the pan.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+BLOCK-OIL+PAN

Last edited by 90goldcoupe; 06-21-2008 at 11:29 AM.
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Old 06-21-2008, 12:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90goldcoupe View Post
I got tired of the rubber gasket splitting so I replaced my oil pan with an aluminum oem h22 oil pan that uses rtv to seal against the block with a tiny rubber gasket that goes in the back curved portion of the oil pan. Here is a pic of the pan.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+BLOCK-OIL+PAN
Nice man..

Um i just tightened them enough..but i went from one side to the other etc etc..
to make sure i wasn't tightening one side more
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Old 06-21-2008, 01:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvc7chris View Post
Nice man..

Um i just tightened them enough..but i went from one side to the other etc etc..
to make sure i wasn't tightening one side more
Everything should be torqued down accordingly. Chris, if i were you, i would put that thig back up on stands, and do it again, There is a reason why people put RTV on there. The rigid lines in thegasket is where is typically doesnt seal, and even honda techs recommend highly that you use Permatex RTV in places recommended.
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Old 06-21-2008, 02:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by js593 View Post
Everything should be torqued down accordingly. Chris, if i were you, i would put that thig back up on stands, and do it again, There is a reason why people put RTV on there. The rigid lines in thegasket is where is typically doesnt seal, and even honda techs recommend highly that you use Permatex RTV in places recommended.
I might do that tommorow since my friend is gonna be around to help me.
now it's easy cuz i don't have to remove anything just toque em down..
and maybe get some RTV If i can find some
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:39 PM   #12
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awesome diy
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:39 PM   #13
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Thats wierd that the ilustration shows a tiny curved seal on the H22 oil pan gasket.

My JDM H22 had a full oil pan gasket (No RTV, and it didnt leak)
I went to the dealer and purchased a new Pan and full seal for $53 ALL OEM
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Old 07-20-2009, 07:56 PM   #14
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Good diy, nice pics too. I need to do this to my CB here soon. Maybe fri or sat. That and change my axle and brake pads at the same time.
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Old 07-21-2009, 09:00 AM   #15
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nice write up imao be doing this when i swap out headers and bushings one day haha. ill do the RTV too prob hit up orileys ( its the red hig temp scilicone correct >>? )
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Old 09-13-2012, 11:50 AM   #16
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Thanks for this DIY man, I might do it after I finish other stuff, been searching for such a
DIY ... many thanks
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