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Old 12-10-2016, 07:08 AM   #141
CyborgGT
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No, the guy that made my emblems did. Keele wanted to see something, so I found "something" interesting to post. Personally I'm not into that extreme styling, but I do enjoy watching people come up with original designs. However, I do want extended fenders for my wagon so I can fit some wide tires. I'm a big fan of the M&M CL7 Euro-R, but I don't think I'd go quite so wide.
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Old 12-27-2016, 05:27 PM   #142
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:04 PM   #143
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More updates?

pronounced like the keele of a boat. kill with the eh sound instead of ih
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Old 03-03-2017, 08:09 PM   #144
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Uh... I got distracted again . I was going to get cams and probably the crank damper this month (thereby finishing the head and focusing on the block), but an online friend is getting rid of his RSX and I really want his Mugen strut bars. Being Mugen, they're going to be kinda pricey. So, cams in April.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:58 PM   #145
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Milestone update: the cams (Skunk2 Pro 2s) came in today, marking the last of the head parts.


by D.Flinn, on Flickr

The number of brands used was kept to a minimum (two, to be exact, excluding the head studs) to make sure that everything works as it should with every other part it interacts with. Valve train is 100% Supertech, but the springs have more than enough seat pressure to handle the S2 cams, having a higher rating than Skunk2's own recommended Pro Series springs. There is a risk of increased valve train wear because of that, but that's why I chose the less aggressive of Supertech's two spring options.

I've got to get warm-weather tires for the RSX next month, and then it's back on the H in June.

It's chuggin' along. I'll only be doing these "milestone updates" from now on, but the first post is kept up to date with each new individual part added.
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Old 06-27-2017, 06:23 PM   #146
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Took care of a few things on the RSX before getting to the last of the Accord's electronics - at least before I buy the car. The ECU will come when I'm ready to tune. This glove box cluster has been sitting around forever with two empty holes, and I finally filled them with fluid pressure gauges:

(don't mind the dirt, it's just a junkyard box I used to get the design down)


by D.Flinn, on Flickr
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Old 07-31-2017, 08:45 PM   #147
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Milestone update: FPR arrived; fuel system is complete!


by D.Flinn, on Flickr


by D.Flinn, on Flickr

- Rosko rail
- RDX injectors
- Walbro 255
- AEM FPR
- AEM electronic pressure gauge
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Old 08-05-2017, 04:12 PM   #148
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I need this thread. I'll have to go back and re-read everything.
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:31 AM   #149
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Eh, it's not very interesting in all honesty. Pretty much just parts collecting up until this point, so I haven't been able to get into the real tech stuff yet. That, and I knew absolutely nothing about what I was getting myself into when I first started, so it's kinda noobish . I think the thread started as some questions I had when I began considering a build, and then I made another thread when I started picking up my first parts, and then one of the mods combined the two (which I don't disagree with). I wish I could delete everything start fresh with a clearer mind, but it's just whatever now. When I get the wagon and start an MRT, that thread will be more carefully done and I'll hope this one slides off into oblivion.


But I'm giving myself a bit of a project for a little while. When I originally pulled the engine and stripped it down I took tons of photos documenting disassembly. Well, something happened to whatever I was storing the photos on and I lost everything quite a while ago now. Since the timing side of the block is pretty complex with all the little pieces involved, and now that I'm reaching the end of my new-parts collecting, I'm finally getting around to a sort of mock reassembly. I did my best to organize and label everything as they came off, so between that and the factory service manual, I'm hoping to put together another photographic reassembly guide for myself while double-checking that I still have everything.


by D.Flinn, on Flickr
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:08 PM   #150
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PLM Power Driven H-series Tri-Y Header
*Out-Of-Car Review

If you've actually been following this build, you know my header decision has been very back-and-forth. "I'm going to do this," "I'm debating that"... I'm sorry! The original plan was for a Bisimoto header, simply because I am absolutely in love with its look. I still am, and would love to pick one up some day. At one point, I was three days away from getting a real one used (I was in communication with the seller), but just before I had the cash he sold it to someone else. A while later, I was under the impression that Bisi stopped making them new when he seemed to dip out of the Honda scene. More recently I've noticed that the headers (as well as many of his seemingly dropped Honda products) are back on their website, but now they're costing about $300 more than I remember. I'm not paying $1300 or whatever it is for a header I'd only use half of. Then I saw that PLM makes an excellent-looking replica. That is, they did. They changed their design, and not only does the collector look like absolute shit now (not that it would have mattered for me, since I'd change it from a 4-1 to a 4-2-1 anyway to try and fix that weak mid-range), but for some reason they felt the need to add an additional cut to the primaries, necessitating an additional weld. It just looks ugly now, and the whole point of me getting that spaghetti header was for looks. The photos at PLM's website of a sleek-looking header are not current but I've e-mailed both PLM and dealer JHPUSA, and got confirmation from both that the photos at JHP are indeed current. Maybe Bisimoto came after them for ripping off the design and that was how they solved it... just like all those Chinese brands (in any industry) that blatantly rip off the aesthetics of other successful products and get away with it on the grounds that "it's not the same." You can check out that header here if you're interested. For the record, when I e-mailed PLM, I asked if they'd be willing to match JHP's $50-cheaper price. Because on PLM's site, they do say "e-mail me a better price." I did, and they told me to just buy from JHP. There's a company that's interested in its customers .

After that Bisi-rep disappointment, I decided to 'settle' and just get their HyTech rip-off. At PLM, it's listed at the same price as the Bisimoto rep: $500. JHP's got it for $279 shipped. I wasn't about to waste my time asking PLM for a price match! And at that price, I'm willing to take the risk of buying something from a brand that is notorious for hit-or-miss fitment. It's worth noting before I even opened the box that I don't trust slip joints in the slightest, and plan on completely welding this thing up. It's going into a street car anyway.

RANT: Seriously, what is the point of price matching another seller? I'm not just talking car parts here, either, but for anything. At the same store, comparing their own online to in-store pricing is fine. But if I see a cheaper price for the same product at another store, I'll buy from them. Being able to say I bought from a given company name doesn't get me off. It wastes my time. If these companies are going to do anything about price adjustment, they should be bidding for your business and going lower than the competition. I digress...

Straight out of the box, I took some measurements. For the curious, let's go top to bottom.

Flange thickness:




Inlet size:






First step-up diameter:




Secondary diameter:




Outlet diameter:




The tubing is 18-gauge 304 stainless. I would have preferred thicker, since I hear it's good for sound-suppression (makes sense), and it offers an obvious advantage in heat-retention. I'll probably look into local ceramic coaters at some point.

The welds certainly look pretty, but I'm no welder so I can't judge penetration just by looking at it. I will say that when I was taking these photos in my garage, I was using a case of bottled water to stand the header up. At the end, I lifted the water, stupidly forgetting that the header was still standing, and the flange swung down and hit the bare concrete. It sounded like a heavy whack at the time. No dent or chip in the flange, no cracked welds. On first impressions, it seems to be put together pretty well .












The slip joints, as you probably expected, are where things get bad. I've wrestled with it, I've taken a dead-blow to it, I've tried lubricating the metal with engine oil, and I've tried adjusting the joints in tiny amounts and assembling them in different orders. As a whole, the pieces aren't all aligning. You have to wonder if they weld it all up while it's even assembled. With mine, I think the problem is in the middle pieces that bend to go under the oil pan. It looks like one of the female tubes wasn't welded onto the collector at the right angle.

Here are some photos of that problem, off and on the engine, given that the secondaries are properly seated into the primaries. You can see that not only are they at different angles, but also slightly different positions in terms of how far back they reach - not that that would matter much hidden inside the slip joint, but the difference is there to show how far off the 4-into-2 collectors are.






Left as-is, I can get the final collector on about half an inch. It's enough to weld, sure, but eventually you know that stress is going to crack a weld somewhere. Rather than trying to deal with a replacement header, I think I can fix this myself by cutting a narrow pie-cut relief into the bottom of that one tube that hangs lower... or the top of the higher one... or both... whichever. That should free up some movement in the joint and get rid of any stress. From there, it can be sealed up through welding.

These photos are also starting to show off the over-abundance of oil pan clearance...






Bringing the secondaries closer to the oil pan is an easy fix. I'm sure I can pick up a cheap pipe cutter from Harbor Freight or somewhere and take about 3/4" out of those first slip joints.




On a personal note, I want to swap out that final collector. For one, it doesn't provide any choke to benefit scavenging (at least, from what I've read on collector choke). Second, I have a V-band clamp to replace the donut flange. And third, I'll be using both the stock O2 sensor as well as a wide-band sensor for an A/F gauge, and I want a bit more spacing between the two sensors than the current tube allows for with its O2 bung already welded into the middle of it.

Still, she's looking pretty, ain't she? I've only got a few more parts to pick up for this build, then it's on to some fairly serious saving for machining, tuning, and of course the perfect wagon to put this in...



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Old 09-21-2017, 07:27 PM   #151
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Interesting read. So one of the outlets was smaller than the other and lazy attempt on getting things lined up. Sounds like every other manufacture. But the right tools can make them all work/look perfect. Newbies don't realize the small tiny customization that is required when building from scratch. It seems easy "order parts, put together" but it's the little things that count. But one little thing off can cause a cascading affect.

Looks good though! Makes me want to start on mine early.
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:39 PM   #152
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Cyborg, I've currently own 2 of these now and the fitiment of either hasn't been as bad as the one you got. I'm wondering if the lower price is because JHP gets the worst of the batches made? I paid roughly $375-425 for each of mine. Also your middle slip joints aren't matching up. There should be very little variation in the length of the bottom corners. Maybe it's just the pictures being deceiving, but one certainly looks a good bit longer than the other. Maybe you just haven't gotten one of the middle sections to slip all the way together?
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:46 PM   #153
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I had those upper slip joints in both even and uneven positions, just trying out different things. Still couldn't get those last pipes any closer.
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Old 09-21-2017, 07:49 PM   #154
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I'll go take a few pictures of both of mine for the F and the H. Granted the F one is a bit beat up still from being stolen. I haven't taken the time to fix it yet.
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Old 09-28-2017, 10:31 PM   #155
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I've got the tubes taped off where I'm going to cut them to hug the oil pan tighter, but I'll do that another day. For now, I just drilled the 5/8" hole for the EGT probe bung. I'll get it welded sooner or later. Gauge kit (AEM) seems to have come with enough wiring that I can run it through the alternator wire cover and integrate it into the engine harness and still reach the glove box, at least. The cost of four gauges is a bit much for me, so I went with what I'm consistently finding to be the hottest cylinder on Honda 4s in general: #3.

I'm definitely NOT drilling into the Spoon header. If that affects the ability to tune to its full potential for a header comparison, so be it. That thing is too rare. I did add a link to some info I found on the usefulness of EGT sensors in post #2, if anyone's interested.









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Old 09-28-2017, 11:16 PM   #156
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For the EGT sensor, is the goal to get the temp to mirror the value measured at peak torque and apply that value across the whole power band?
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Old 09-29-2017, 12:22 AM   #157
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That's what I understood from the simplified explanation I read here:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...s-here-248965/
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Old 09-29-2017, 06:48 PM   #158
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Just found a spare head in the junkyard. There are a couple nicks in the head gasket surface I'm wondering about, but between machining and the gasket, they should be fine.



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Old 09-29-2017, 08:02 PM   #159
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Is that a PDE or P13? Good find!
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Old 09-29-2017, 10:32 PM   #160
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P13. Block was an H22A1.
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