What injectors are you running again? (I skimmed through the thread but I didn’t see it... I thought I remembered seeing it.)
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need some expert advice on my swap! H22A1, USDM P13, bogs and bucks
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I basically just wanted to reseal it, and check all the bearings. while I was in there I took the rings out and cleaned them cause they were trashed, I didn't want to buy new ones so I just put them back in , and I did my best to clock them according to the assembly procedure. I don't think there is a direct break in the rings, but I suppose they could have rotated somehow . . .
I have spark in all four and compression is ~185 in all four, but I can check again next time I'm up there.
deevergote: What injectors are you running again?
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some guy had the same symptoms as me , I was reading some other forum . . . the thread basically ended with he had his IACV coolant lines backwards and re-routed them and everything was all mint after but I seriously doubt that would cause these problems, and I don't think my coolant lines are backwards although I did delete the FITV under the TB
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Originally posted by RabbittCB7 View PostI basically just wanted to reseal it, and check all the bearings. while I was in there I took the rings out and cleaned them cause they were trashed, I didn't want to buy new ones so I just put them back in , and I did my best to clock them according to the assembly procedure. I don't think there is a direct break in the rings, but I suppose they could have rotated somehow . . .
I have spark in all four and compression is ~185 in all four, but I can check again next time I'm up there.
Remanufactured "OEM" ones from rockauto, they should be 345cc's being that they are stock. They appear to be the resistor type both the CB and lude use, I ordered them for a prelude so they should be the 345cc ones. All the seals are new and there are no fuel leaks , and not seeing coolant in the oil just gas. a lot of gas . . .
Disconnect the ECM. Then ohm each injector negative to ground. It should be OL. If it isn’t, you have shorts to ground on the injector control side. This will cause the injectors to over fuel.
Another failure it can have is the ground wires for the injector harness rubbing each other, opening more injectors than just 1. Ohm check between different injectors negative side. They should be OL.
If you really aren’t sure if it’s beginning to flood out. Run the car, then unplug different injectors 1 at a time. If you notice no change, then after a few seconds it runs better, then that injector was over-fueling. If the car immediately runs worse. That injector is probably ok. If you notice no change at all, and it never changes even after a while, then that injector is probably not fueling at all.
You can also try a different test. The carb spray test. Disconnect all injectors, start car on carb spray, and spray periodically to see if the engine runs relatively smoothly. If it runs smooth on spray, then you have a fueling issue. If it runs rough and jerky even on spray, then you have a timing, ecu, etc issue.Last edited by Bailey_CatDaddy; 07-31-2019, 01:08 PM.
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Originally posted by bailey_catdaddy View Posta Lot Of Gas In The Oil = Injectors Sticking Open. Disconnect The Positive Cable.
Disconnect The Ecm. Then Ohm Each Injector Negative To Ground. It Should Be Ol. If It Isn’t, You Have Shorts To Ground On The Injector Control Side. This Will Cause The Injectors To Over Fuel.
Another Failure It Can Have Is The Ground Wires For The Injector Harness Rubbing Each Other, Opening More Injectors Than Just 1. Ohm Check Between Different Injectors Negative Side. They Should Be Ol.
If You Really Aren’t Sure If It’s Beginning To Flood Out. Run The Car, Then Unplug Different Injectors 1 At A Time. If You Notice No Change, Then After A Few Seconds It Runs Better, Then That Injector Was Over-fueling. If The Car Immediately Runs Worse. That Injector Is Probably Ok. If You Notice No Change At All, And It Never Changes Even After A While, Then That Injector Is Probably Not Fueling At All.
You Can Also Try A Different Test. The Carb Spray Test. Disconnect All Injectors, Start Car On Carb Spray, And Spray Periodically To See If The Engine Runs Relatively Smoothly. If It Runs Smooth On Spray, Then You Have A Fueling Issue. If It Runs Rough And Jerky Even On Spray, Then You Have A Timing, Ecu, Etc Issue.
I'm still wondering about the main relay, is that a common gremlin? it obviously works cause I can hear the pump, but maybe its weak?
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Update: Defeat
I think the car has me beat fellas. I have done everything to my mechanical ability to make the bloody thing just run normally with an H22 . . .Last edited by RabbittCB7; 08-02-2019, 11:04 AM.
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https://imgur.com/a/hYvV9sZ
photo of the old CB, back when it ran on a boosted F22 and ate supercars for breakfast.
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