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    No VTEC on a VTEC motor

    Hey how goes it? I am having yet another issue with my build that I can not seem to solve on my own. I have a cb7 f22b1 swap. The car tops out at only 3.5k. I have wired the VTEC to pins A4 and D6 on the P0A-A01 ECU and the solenoid is grounded at the thermostat. Still nothing. If anyone has any insight, it would be much appreciated. BTW I do not have a check engine light.
    F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

    91' Accord Project

    Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

    #2
    My ECU threw trouble codes immediately when the VTEC signals were not present. Suggests that your problem may not be with the VTEC system.

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      #3
      Try changing your ground point to somewhere on the chassis. Test your VTEC solenoid to ensure it's engaging. Clean your VTEC solenoid screen and ensure your oil/pressure is good.


      '98 Prelude resto/mod thread

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        #4
        the Q30 point on my ecu is damaged, would that have anything to do with the vtec? Anyone know where i can find a motherboard layout for my ecu? Think i might just buy another one, because there is damage, but i am not even remotely sure if this burn affects the vtec.
        F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

        91' Accord Project

        Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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          #5
          Originally posted by Chrisnick View Post
          Try changing your ground point to somewhere on the chassis. Test your VTEC solenoid to ensure it's engaging. Clean your VTEC solenoid screen and ensure your oil/pressure is good.
          Is it possible to remove the solenoid while the engine still has oil? I just cleaned the bay, i do not want any drippy drip lol...Like would it have oil in it?
          F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

          91' Accord Project

          Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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            #6
            Vtec or not your motor should still rev to rev limit. It sounds like you have a bad distributor. If you have any check engine lights clear those first. One of them is more than likely the culprit.

            my new turbo build

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              #7
              Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View Post
              Vtec or not your motor should still rev to rev limit. It sounds like you have a bad distributor. If you have any check engine lights clear those first. One of them is more than likely the culprit.
              This car has never thrown a CEL. Only lights I get is the battery and oil light when I put the key in the on position, but they go away once the car is started. This engine is supposed to engage VTEC at 2.5k, but can go over that to 3.5k, then it sputters like tht is the rev limit then goes back to idle. What should it go to without vtec?

              Should I replace the disributor and the ignition cables?


              This is my first Honda I have personally owned...the majority of cars I have owned use the modern day computer controlled coils for spark. Which I have to admit makes things a breeze.

              This swap was easy for my first, but getting it to run the way i imagined is a whole other story lol. The distributor came with the swap as well as the p/s and a/c.
              F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

              91' Accord Project

              Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                #8
                Does your CEL work? Stupid question... but from your description, you should be getting one.

                Are you absolutely certain that VTEC is not working? The F22B1 VTEC isn't like the VTEC found on DOHC engines like the H22A and B18C. F22B1 VTEC just works on the intake valves. There is no truly noticeable "kick".
                Also, it is supposed to occur between 2300rpm and 3400rpm, depending on MAP and TPS input (both of those sensors would throw a CEL if they were not working properly.)

                If you're sure you hooked everything up properly, you're sure you have proper oil pressure, and you're sure VTEC is not working, then the damaged ECU is the most likely culprit.

                You could always throw your old PT3 in there and see if it runs any differently. The engines are similar enough that it can run on that ECU without sustaining any damage.






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                  #9
                  First and foremost. When you put the key in and turn 2 clicks you should get a check engine light,batt light and oil light all on. Check engine light will turn off in 3 seconds. It's Hondas way of telling you that fuel is primed and car is ready to be started. If you do not have a check engine light at all then you eaither have no bulb or its blown from being on so long. Second. no matter what vtec or not you motor should rev freely threw rev range unles there is 2 step or a bad crank position sensor. Aka in you distributor.

                  my new turbo build

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by 92smokeaccord View Post
                    First and foremost. When you put the key in and turn 2 clicks you should get a check engine light,batt light and oil light all on. Check engine light will turn off in 3 seconds. It's Hondas way of telling you that fuel is primed and car is ready to be started. If you do not have a check engine light at all then you eaither have no bulb or its blown from being on so long. Second. no matter what vtec or not you motor should rev freely threw rev range unles there is 2 step or a bad crank position sensor. Aka in you distributor.
                    Yea I might have to pull the cluster...I only get a battery light and oil light in the on position...
                    F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                    91' Accord Project

                    Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                      #11
                      That would probably explain why you're not getting a check engine light.






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                        #12
                        A13 on the ecu is the CEL light pin, if you wanted to do some quick diagnostics before tearing into the dash..if no light when you first turn on the car, the ecu is toast. One thing ive been confused about is whether or not every pin (well most) are switched grounds.

                        ex:






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                          #13
                          Originally posted by illinois_erik View Post
                          A13 on the ecu is the CEL light pin, if you wanted to do some quick diagnostics before tearing into the dash..if no light when you first turn on the car, the ecu is toast. One thing ive been confused about is whether or not every pin (well most) are switched grounds.

                          ex:






                          Probably one of the better diagrams I have seen. Thx, a probe test light should work just fine for this... I will check it tomorrow and fill you in. Even though I actually suspect the dash light, because the previous owner installed purple dash lights. I noticed only half of the dash is lit.

                          God I hate the extensive time it takes to get the cluster out For one tiny bulb lol

                          P.s Someone at O'Reillys told me the ecu might be in limp mode.
                          F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                          91' Accord Project

                          Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                            #14
                            It's not usually wise to listen to people at autoparts stores. Most of them have no clue.
                            However, yes... in this case, if your CEL is actually on (but with a blown bulb), then the ECU may be in limp mode. Limp mode really just means that the ECU is fueling according to a conservative fuel table, rather than from normal sensor feedback. It's designed to prevent as much damage as possible when something is malfunctioning. VTEC won't usually work with a CEL, at the very least.






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                              #15
                              The output from A13 is ground. The bulb recieves 12v from Fuse #1.

                              Black Housing DIY 1991 Wagon Morimoto Retrofit
                              JDM One-Piece Headlight Lens Repair

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