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Old 10-26-2018, 10:35 AM   #1
djALBINI
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H swap dies, idle too high

Hey everyone, got an issue with my swap. At startup the motor shoots to 1800 rpm, then drops low enough to die unless I give it a bit of gas for about 5-10 seconds.

When its at op temp the idle is somewhere between 1100 and 1500 RPM and wont drop lower.

A buddy of mine tried the adjustment screw at the TB but doing this causes me to have to hold the throttle longer at warm up to prevent it from dying at start up.

Has anyone else had this problem?
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Old 10-26-2018, 02:08 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djALBINI;3286133nd

A buddy of mine tried the adjustment screw at the TB
that idle screw should have never been messed with . check for vacuum leask / cracked vacuum lines and such . there is a few ways to check for them water / propain / brake cleaner . ( note breake cleaner will catch fire .)

Last edited by Accord problems; 10-26-2018 at 02:12 PM. Reason: miss spelled
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Old 10-26-2018, 07:01 PM   #3
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Angry

before messing with the idle screw, it would just die and not hold idle.

Map vaccum line plugged, egr deleted.
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Old 10-26-2018, 08:20 PM   #4
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before messing with the idle screw, it would just die and not hold idle.

Map vaccum line plugged, egr deleted.
did you remove the charcoal canister ?

still check for vacuum leaks . the red hose on the charcoal can if its off cracked it can cause this .

as for youre friend messing with the idle screw ( i know hes trying to help ) should have left it alone .

take well the engine is running and spray around with water ( spray bottle ) and listen for it to change idle.
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:18 PM   #5
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Probably your fast idle valve. It’s located under your throttle body I believe. Also, what ECU are you running?
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Old 10-27-2018, 01:11 PM   #6
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When 'messing with' the idle screw you should have the IAC unplugged and the service connector jumped (setting base idle). Otherwise the ECU will attempt to compensate.

Is this a new problem? Did it run fine, then this issue came up or has it done this since it was swapped? What ECU are you running? Is all of your wiring correct? Are all of the vacuum lines correct? Any CEL codes or vacuum leaks?
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Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!

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I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.
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Old 10-27-2018, 10:12 PM   #7
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charcoal canister gone, black box gone, p28 chipped and tuned, air boost delete. IAC was unplugged and jumped service connector.

This has been happening since it has been swapped.

No CEL or vacuum leaks....
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Old 10-31-2018, 02:53 PM   #8
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p28 with Hondata? or just a chip with a tune? do you have a wideband?

I would be curious about the tune.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:22 PM   #9
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yes i am indeed... the tuner stated that tuning cars with golden eagle intake manifolds is a pain in the ass. The curve is hard to get right I guess...
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Old 11-02-2018, 02:43 AM   #10
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yes i am indeed... the tuner stated that tuning cars with golden eagle intake manifolds is a pain in the ass. The curve is hard to get right I guess...
Quick question. How's your antifreeze level? Do you go through a certain amount of antifreeze in a week?
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:13 PM   #11
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Can your tuner look at your tune again?
Was he able to street tune it or dyno tune it?
Or did he just create a basemap for your car?
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Accord problems View Post
Quick question. How's your antifreeze level? Do you go through a certain amount of antifreeze in a week?
Sounds like he hasn't even made it that far yet if the engine is "dying" as he
described.
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Old 11-04-2018, 11:55 AM   #13
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the coolant level is maxxed out with the car as high on the jack in the front and bled out all the air then topped it off at the max hot line in the reservoir tank.

Tuner gave me a basemap based on H22 with bolt ons and 93 octane to get it running, then complained that i didnt tell him about the type of I/M.

Once towed to his house, he tuned it to get it running then took it to the street to finish tuning. So its running, but the idle is just set high because at startup I guess it will die if its not...?

I was told not to mess with the idle settings.
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:16 PM   #14
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Wtf his house ? Take it to well known shop not some guys house.

Try using just a stock ecu I have a feeling the tune is not right and you're just going to hurt the engine .
You will have to use 87 probably not sure .
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Old 11-06-2018, 09:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord problems View Post
Wtf his house ? Take it to well known shop not some guys house.

Try using just a stock ecu I have a feeling the tune is not right and you're just going to hurt the engine .
You will have to use 87 probably not sure .
There is no issue with going to a tuners house. MRX use to tune out of his house and Blake 850Fab works out of his shop in the back of his house. Both great tuners.

As for going to a stock Ecu I agree with. But do not put 87 octane in an H22a. It will knock as it requires 93 octane per Honda.

OP: unless the manifold is leaking I don’t see how it could be causing an idle issue. Do you have the stock intake mani? If the tuner feels that’s the issue swap it back to stop and see if issue is resolved.

Also are you running a stock TB or aftermarket? Have you checked to make sure your throttle cable isn’t too tight and had the throttle plate slightly cracked open?
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:47 PM   #16
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cause i have never herd of good things coming from some one like that. i have herd nothing but horror story's when people say so and so did such and such from his house . this is the first time i even herd of good tuners from home . thats why i said that.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:29 PM   #17
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soo..does it run, run like you can drive 40 miles & it would be okay?
or is it just running & only able to idle? because I see you said you had to tow
it.

The thing about those "basemap" tunes is they aren't meant for every engine.
Every single H22 basemap that is offered from Hondata are all way too
rich to run a stock H22 from what I found out.
I just think your tuner needs revisit your setup. The IM as Grumpys93 said
will not effect the tune that much to the point where it has a problem idling.

How about your IACV..how is that looking because I know if you pull the
connector off of the IACV you should be able to see a change in the idling/RPM.
If nothing changes when you remove the connector then that would be an
issue regarding your idle.

Troubleshoot the IACV just to be sure.

Also, I am just curious..see where your "base idle" is set in your tune. Because
for Hondata sManager, you can raise & lower your idle RPM manually.
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Old 11-16-2018, 11:08 PM   #18
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My buddy who helped me swap to the h22 drove my car over 100 miles back to my house after all was said and done.. So after gassing it with my local 93 (BP) it runs good.

1st cold start each day rpm goes to 1800, drops somewhere between 400 and 600, then goes back up to 1100 until it reaches op temp. This all happens within a time period if about 3-5 seconds.

Once it reaches op temp, it idles at approx 1250 rpm with afr's of about 12.7-13.0. So it's probably tuned a bit rich for the compensation of added airflow. Yes indeed my tune is great and I am happy with it. Would like to get it dynoed.

The original post was at a time when I was listening to issues my buddy was telling me he had when trying to get the drivability issues resolved post swap..

Turns out a map sensor wiring issue, a tps wiring issue, an o2 wiring issue and having to switch a6 and a11 at the ecu as a result of having a 95 accord sir h22a were all part of the troubleshooting problem that we had to figure out.

It's all a learning process.
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