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Old 01-29-2015, 06:22 AM   #41
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How does the reverse light wire in? I see a two pin connector with the same wire colors in the bay but I don't just want to go cutting wires and be wrong.
The color of wires you see on the reverse switch you will also find in a harness that ran to the automatic shifter assembly. They simply wire together.

If the car was here I would go out and take a look to verify the colors but it just left.
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Old 02-15-2015, 05:29 PM   #42
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So there will be a green and yellow wire that plugged into the automatic shifter assembly and that gets jumped together along with the sensor in the transmission being spliced in? I assume it's these two connecters in the engine bay as no other connecters seem to have the same green/yellow wires.
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Old 02-15-2015, 06:16 PM   #43
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See those two wires that have the same style connectors as the brake master cylinder reservoir? It's those two. IIRC anyways.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:16 PM   #44
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Did you use a manual harness? Because my wire harness doesn't have any connectors like that bullet style.
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Old 02-15-2015, 07:32 PM   #45
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Did you use a manual harness? Because my wire harness doesn't have any connectors like that bullet style.
Manual harness? That's part of the engine harness so no. I got the other ends to those connectors and wired it up that way. Basically, I ran those wires to the same color wires in the shifter assembly wiring harness.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:24 PM   #46
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Finally, after hours on end, the pics are back up.

I have noticed some typo's and such but they are immediately evident and shouldn't confuse anyone. I will go over this here soon, reword some things and change some things around it make it a bit better. But, the pics being back up is the main thing. And was the hard part as well.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:29 PM   #47
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The color of wires you see on the reverse switch you will also find in a harness that ran to the automatic shifter assembly. They simply wire together.

If the car was here I would go out and take a look to verify the colors but it just left.
Yeah reverse lights are easy for this swap. I thought mine weren't working the other night cause I couldn't see shit out the back. Turns out they're working fine.

Basically this swap is very straighforward. Just a little bit if rigging for the wiring and the rest is easy if you have all the parts.
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:40 PM   #48
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Finally, after hours on end, the pics are back up.

I have noticed some typo's and such but they are immediately evident and shouldn't confuse anyone. I will go over this here soon, reword some things and change some things around it make it a bit better. But, the pics being back up is the main thing. And was the hard part as well.
dude this thread is no joke!! I dont know how i missed it! now you know why nobody bothered taking the time to redo a whole new guide... its a LOT of work, huh??

this is amazing and very well written, thank you for the contribution!!!!
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Old 05-01-2015, 07:42 PM   #49
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Yeah, I saw it the first day you put it up, but I never did commend you on your efforts. With as often as it pops back up, and with the number of views it has, it's obviously been a major resource to the community in a very short time. Thank you very much for this.
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Old 05-01-2015, 08:41 PM   #50
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dude this thread is no joke!! I dont know how i missed it! now you know why nobody bothered taking the time to redo a whole new guide... its a LOT of work, huh??

this is amazing and very well written, thank you for the contribution!!!!
Thank you Mike! It was a lot of work no doubt. But the appreciation I have received from the CB7Tuner community yourself included makes it more than worth it.

I have been provided with a lot by the community and I'm very pleased that I could return the favor. I only hope it helps others half as much as others have helped me.

I'm not entirely pleased with everything. Like I said, it will see some improvements in the near future.



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Yeah, I saw it the first day you put it up, but I never did commend you on your efforts. With as often as it pops back up, and with the number of views it has, it's obviously been a major resource to the community in a very short time. Thank you very much for this.
The community and you as well are very welcome. It hasn't been a one way street by any means. And thank you for the recognition.


I'm actually getting ready to do this procedure again within the next two weeks. I gathered parts yesterday and today with plans to do so again tomorrow. The methods will be different this go around. I will be documenting where the procedure differs and adding the information to this DIY.
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Old 05-01-2015, 08:49 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by Mishakol129 View Post
Yeah reverse lights are easy for this swap. I thought mine weren't working the other night cause I couldn't see shit out the back. Turns out they're working fine.

Basically this swap is very straighforward. Just a little bit if rigging for the wiring and the rest is easy if you have all the parts.
I will be adding the neutral safety switch and reverse light documentation as well as pictures of the processes in the near future. I currently have both fully functional in the car seen in this DIY.


The swap is relatively easy if one knows what parts to use. The wiring doesn't have to be rigged but I will get into that when the times comes. I want to do the wiring once more to get it as close to perfect as I possibly can.
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Old 05-04-2015, 06:58 AM   #52
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Sweet, reverse light wiring! I still don't have mine wired in yet.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:12 PM   #53
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Turns out factory specs on the flywheel bolts with blue thread locker wasn't enough in my case. All my flywheel bolts were loose when I took off the transmission yesterday. I'd recommend red thread locker and maybe a bit more torque.
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Old 05-12-2015, 05:56 PM   #54
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Turns out factory specs on the flywheel bolts with blue thread locker wasn't enough in my case. All my flywheel bolts were loose when I took off the transmission yesterday. I'd recommend red thread locker and maybe a bit more torque.
I would check your torque wrench and investigate everything very thoroughly.

I've used blue thread locker many many times in this particular application and never had a failure. In the last year, 3 times iirc and in all previous years combined 5 times.

I'm not doubting your experience or whatever one bit. I'm stating with my experience applied to this bit of info I have serious doubts with the cause being something in relation to the type of thread locker. It isn't a huge deal as for blue or red directly but if there is an issue the cause needs to be completely examined and completely reviled. The problem (with me and this DIY) is I cannot recommend red thread locker as I have no experience with it. To compound that I have had no reason to in the past and I cannot do so in the future with confidence. I also could not provide information as to the removal of the flywheel bolts once cured. However, as for general purposes your experience and info needs not my validation. But being the location of this discussion I feel the need to try and attempt to validate or disregard it. I'm trying to avoid my point getting across as "prove it" but I think you get what I mean. Once again, I do not question your skills or experience in any way. I want to make that very clear. I'm not anyone to do so in the first place.

Thank you for sharing this. Regardless of what it is or what you find your experience is most definitely noted and has my attention and concern. However, the concern is not with the the method given in this DIY as its a proven method. My concern is with exactly why failure occurred in the instance you have given.
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Old 05-13-2015, 01:21 AM   #55
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Well... this DIY is getting ready to receive a major addition that I think will prove to be very beneficial.

I spent over $500 on a new camera and a few hundred more on equipment about 30 mins ago.

I'm making a video of the manual transmission conversion I'm about to do. I cannot let a good opportunity go to waste.

Start to finish. Every step in between with no editing out the work unless it's repetitive or redundant.
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Old 05-16-2015, 11:23 AM   #56
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Well... this DIY is getting ready to receive a major addition that I think will prove to be very beneficial.

I spent over $500 on a new camera and a few hundred more on equipment about 30 mins ago.

I'm making a video of the manual transmission conversion I'm about to do. I cannot let a good opportunity go to waste.

Start to finish. Every step in between with no editing out the work unless it's repetitive or redundant.
!!!!

I'm prepping to get the 5 speed out of my sedan and into my wagon so this would be huge.

Edit:
Not to say this isn't huge already.

A page or two back you mentioned not liking the synchromesh. Not trying to hijack here but could you get into that a bit?

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...People use GM Syncromesh over Honda MTF when they have problems, as a last resort really. If I had a really bad grind and the trans couldn't be pulled for 5 or 6 months, I would try it. If I had a great transmission with no issues, the last thing I would do would be put GM Syncromesh in it.

Pennzoil might work. But this is what I have seen people use. http://www.brothersperformance.com/g...DfUaApZZ8P8HAQ
When I did my clutch I filled up with Pennzoil and I noticed a big improvement. I had a slight grind in 3rd that went away entirely. Obviously this didn't 'fix' the mechanical wear in there but are there downsides to this?



Asst'd tips/opinions: you mentioned switching jacks around when under the engine and lowering the auto trans out. I have a few of those cheapo tire changing jacks, ya know the kind you have in your trunk? I got some of those from the JY that have a bolt head on them so you can spin them up and down fast with an impact or drill. I did my clutch job by myself, maybe a dedicated transmission jack will do the job better but I found that having a few of those around to support the engine while pulling it out or balancing the trans while getting a bolt in there to hold it made a world of difference. Cheap and easy to get.

I'd second your suggestion of having enough room under the car to pull things out without being too high up so you can't reach. I think I had mine like 4 inches off the ground with tires on. I was on concrete. I'm 5'8" and don't have a huge reach but I suppose I'm also small enough to fit in under there...your mileage may vary.

Oh, and if you clean the area of grime around the VSS I found it easier to unbolt the whole unit from the top of the trans and have it dangle by the fluid lines than to remove the hoses for both removal and install. It does leave an open port in the top of the trans you should be careful about dropping things into while cleaning/working though.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:43 PM   #57
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It could be a difference in thread locker brands. I used Permatex in my instance.

I've used that torque wrench on many many flywheel jobs that I get in at work and I haven't experienced any issues with those. Recently I checked it against another wrench and the difference between the two was negligible. Granted I will say that my wrench hasn't been calibrated recently.

I've come across threads where a few other H22 owners have encountered loosening flywheel bolts as well having torqued them to factory specs with blue thread locker. I was using a stock flywheel and organic clutch. It may be just an isolated few incidents but I figured it would be worth noting.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:54 PM   #58
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!!!!

I'm prepping to get the 5 speed out of my sedan and into my wagon so this would be huge.

Edit:
Not to say this isn't huge already.

A page or two back you mentioned not liking the synchromesh. Not trying to hijack here but could you get into that a bit?



When I did my clutch I filled up with Pennzoil and I noticed a big improvement. I had a slight grind in 3rd that went away entirely. Obviously this didn't 'fix' the mechanical wear in there but are there downsides to this?



Asst'd tips/opinions: you mentioned switching jacks around when under the engine and lowering the auto trans out. I have a few of those cheapo tire changing jacks, ya know the kind you have in your trunk? I got some of those from the JY that have a bolt head on them so you can spin them up and down fast with an impact or drill. I did my clutch job by myself, maybe a dedicated transmission jack will do the job better but I found that having a few of those around to support the engine while pulling it out or balancing the trans while getting a bolt in there to hold it made a world of difference. Cheap and easy to get.

I'd second your suggestion of having enough room under the car to pull things out without being too high up so you can't reach. I think I had mine like 4 inches off the ground with tires on. I was on concrete. I'm 5'8" and don't have a huge reach but I suppose I'm also small enough to fit in under there...your mileage may vary.

Oh, and if you clean the area of grime around the VSS I found it easier to unbolt the whole unit from the top of the trans and have it dangle by the fluid lines than to remove the hoses for both removal and install. It does leave an open port in the top of the trans you should be careful about dropping things into while cleaning/working though.
I'm going to address this when I have time. I haven't forgot about you aluminum13.

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It could be a difference in thread locker brands. I used Permatex in my instance.

I've used that torque wrench on many many flywheel jobs that I get in at work and I haven't experienced any issues with those. Recently I checked it against another wrench and the difference between the two was negligible. Granted I will say that my wrench hasn't been calibrated recently.

I've come across threads where a few other H22 owners have encountered loosening flywheel bolts as well having torqued them to factory specs with blue thread locker. I was using a stock flywheel and organic clutch. It may be just an isolated few incidents but I figured it would be worth noting.
I use Permatex as well. This bottle to be exact. I'd post a pic of my bottle but the label wore off. A bottle like this lasts me about a year.



I couldn't say about an H22. But I can vouch for F22's factory specs and blue thread locker.

Seems like I've heard about H22's and the flywheel bolts backing out on several occasions before though.
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Old 06-15-2015, 04:40 PM   #59
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Another 5 speed transmission conversion completed. The swap can be done in as little as 12 hours. It took me 12 hours and 13 mins and I didn't touch the car prior to yesterday at 9:21AM. I have a lot of tools and equipment that most don't so that will make a difference. But it's still not too hard.
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Old 06-15-2015, 05:26 PM   #60
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Wow, that first page.....




Awesome work, sir.
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