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    DIY Wire-Tuck

    We've all seen the nicely tucked engine bays that appear as if they shouldn't even run, and alot of people think to themselves "I should do that," yet few know where to start. With that being said, here's a step by step of my wire-tuck I did on my EG8 when I had it. I know it's not a CB7 but the general idea should apply to CB7's as well. This was only a partial tuck, and a half ass one at that, however I will try to make this how to as thorough as possible.

    EDIT: Excuse the condition of the car. I had just bought it and the guy before me took horrible care of it.

    Materials:

    extra wire (a spare chassis harness makes this really easy)
    soldering iron
    solder
    shrink wrap
    wire cutters
    metal clothes hanger

    The beginning Layout:

    I have noticed that the majority of Honda engine bays have two sets of plug, one on each side of the engine bay by the firewall, as well as the engine bay fuse box, battery, etc. a shown here.



    Now to start you have the sections of the harness that run along the inside of the engine bay for the lights on either side pictured here. I'll start w/ these.





    First you need to remove the fenders so that you can reroute these wires to under the fenders. Once this is done, cut the harness and pull it out through the holes like so: (note: In retrospect I'm sure there is a way to run them through the doors and into the same location, however I didn't think to use this way in the method being shown here.)



    Once the harness has been cut and routed through, you want to extend the wires so that they reach using the routing shown. To do this, solder the wires together and then shrink wrap them to keep moisture and debris out.





    Once the wires have been extended, you need to route them to the front by the headlights and turn signals.



    Idealy you would have routed the wires through this section here however I didn't think to do this until I had already reconnected the wires, and don't have pics from when I fixed it although I am sure you get the idea. When going through here, I found that stretching out a metal hanger and making a small hook on the end, worked great for pulling the wires through.



    Here's the finished product on each side: (yes I know the rusty bolts really need to be replaced.)



    Last edited by boostdelinquent; 04-15-2009, 01:09 AM.

    #2
    Now that you have rerouted the harness to the lights, you can begin to relocate the fusebox to inside the cabin of the car. Start off by unbolting the fusebox from the chassis and pulling it lose.



    Once you have it lose, you can remove the back of the fuse panel exposing little plugs that attach into the panel. Disconnect these.



    Once you have the plugs disconnected, you can now fit the wires through the firewall. Depending where you decide to position the fusebox at, you may need to extend the wires as well. I put mine in the glovebox to avoid doing this, although a little extra length would have allowed me to reinstall my blower motor.



    When doing this, there are 2 wires that come from the engine wiring harness that need to be attached to this panel, so those wires will need to be extended as well. If I wasn't being lazy when I did this, I would have deloomed the harness and extended the wires to route behind the engine, instead of coming out here. Since I didn't have the right size cable to relocate my battery to the trunk I figured the battery would hide this well enough for the time being.

    Comment


      #3
      Once the fuse panel has been relocated, you need to move the harness on the driver side of the engine bay. In this instance all I did was push the harness under the resivoir for the clutch fluid. It concealed it well enough for the time being since I did not have the motivation to pull my dash, extend the harness, and run the wires out the holes in the firewall for the heater core behind the engine. IMO that would be an ideal spot to run the wires through though.

      When I attached the engine harness I had the engine out of my car, making it really easy to route the wires in a way that concealed the majority of them under the IM. For the injectors, I extended the wires a little and ran them between the runners. The clips show in the pics however all you need to do is rotate the injector clips to face down and they will be out of sight.

      Here's the finished project. It could have been MUCH more thorough than what I did, however I was in a time crunch to get my car back on the road. Overall it wasn't bad for the effort exerted.





      And here you can see how I ran the injector wiring as well as the clips showing.



      That's it. The biggest annoyance with this entire project was the time spent rewiring since I was stealing wires from a chassis harness I had left over from a RHD conversion I was doing. As a result of that, I spent alot of time writing down what color wire from the CRX harness was attached to what color wire from the Civic harness. In short, that was time consuming.
      Last edited by boostdelinquent; 04-15-2009, 01:10 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        FINALLY!!!!!!!!!! Somone gave a DIY that gave everyone a basic know how of where to start and what things go where. This will help all.
        "you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.


        1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!

        1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

        1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
        sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
        Did work for: jhoff_cb7
        Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe

        Comment


          #5
          nice

          Ride List
          1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853
          2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724(totaled)
          newest 2006 mazdaspeed 6 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4073987/2006-mazda-mazda6

          Comment


            #6
            holy rustoleum batman!

            other than that, thanks for puttin the time in doing this

            Comment


              #7
              not to bash but, ive done 3 wire tucks on CB's, 1 on a CD, and 2 on EGs

              and i tell u CIVICS are so easy to tuck, they dont have all the SHIT accords have
              Originally posted by deevergote
              Just do what PR CB7 said.

              "I'm Going For Wood" (Clickey Clickey)

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by the pharmacist View Post
                holy rustoleum batman!

                other than that, thanks for puttin the time in doing this
                Yeah, the car had so many rusty bolts on it, it wasn't even funny. I had planned to replace them but sold the car before I got around to it.

                Originally posted by PR CB7 View Post
                not to bash but, ive done 3 wire tucks on CB's, 1 on a CD, and 2 on EGs

                and i tell u CIVICS are so easy to tuck, they dont have all the SHIT accords have
                I've never tucked a CB7 so I couldn't tell you one way or another. I mearly intended this to be a general guide to how it is done for anyone who might want to. Since you have tucked 3 CB7's perhaps you could share what the differences are and how you did the tucks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  My ride History:
                  Accord 90 lx auto: Gone
                  Accord 91 dx MT: Gone
                  Accord 92 lx auto: Gone
                  -----------------------------------
                  1st to D.I.Y custom RED/CLEAR's

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yes! I want to tuck wires. I seem to be decent at wiring! Now we need a detailed DIY on how to tuck a CB!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Shag Wagon View Post
                      Yes! I want to tuck wires. I seem to be decent at wiring! Now we need a detailed DIY on how to tuck a CB!
                      If I don't sell my H23 build and end up buying a CB7 like I plan to, there will be one along w/ a detailed brake tuck DIY.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by boostdeliquent View Post
                        If I don't sell my H23 build and end up buying a CB7 like I plan to, there will be one along w/ a detailed brake tuck DIY.
                        There is no reason to do a brake tuck on a CB. the brake lines sit so low in the bay you can barely see them anyways. I was going to do this till i came to my senses and realized you cant see the prop valve anyways so whats the point!

                        My Wiretuck/ Insane engine bay
                        member ride thread
                        11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
                        DIVULGE MOTORSPORTS
                        People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
                        I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
                        John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Wire-tuck their more to it Yo

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
                            There is no reason to do a brake tuck on a CB. the brake lines sit so low in the bay you can barely see them anyways. I was going to do this till i came to my senses and realized you cant see the prop valve anyways so whats the point!
                            Thanks for the info. I've never really looked at the CB7's engine bay for the purposes of doing/planning a tuck so I didn't know that.

                            Originally posted by starkrice View Post
                            Wire-tuck their more to it Yo
                            What I have listed in this DIY is the basic idea of what you need to do. I'll be the first to admit the tuck I did was a bit half assed, however it did serve the purpose I had. If you have the time and don't mind extending a bit of the harness, it'd be ideal to route the harness so that the connections to the chassis harness and ECU come into the engine bay through the firewall under the intake manifold.

                            To do this, you can either use existing holes such as the ones for the heater core, or drill your own. The only thing about this is that you'll have to reroute some wires and extend the harness on the inside of the firewall, making it necessary to pull the dash. At least that is the way I'd do it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
                              There is no reason to do a brake tuck on a CB. the brake lines sit so low in the bay you can barely see them anyways. I was going to do this till i came to my senses and realized you cant see the prop valve anyways so whats the point!

                              maybe not a tuck, but a simplification, i took out ABS and need to run new line, as soon as i can get a tool to flair stainless i will be running new lines in a more straight forward way.

                              so i guess the opposite of a tuck, more than likely it will be more visible stainless lines. but i still think a brake reroute is a good idea, dosn't matter if its to hide them, move them out of your way or just replace them because they are falling to shit.
                              Engines hate me... thats why they commit suicide

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