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Old 05-06-2009, 07:26 PM   #1
fonzee_92
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Clutch wont engage...Slave cylinder distance or mster cylinder pressure ?

How would i know if my master cylinder is not building enough pressure for clutch to engage ? Do i check the distance of the salve cylinder movement....... or what can i do to do a check to see if master cylinder is good ? any test ? 1993 honda accord ?
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:23 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by fonzee_92 View Post
How would i know if my master cylinder is not building enough pressure for clutch to engage ? Do i check the distance of the salve cylinder movement....... or what can i do to do a check to see if master cylinder is good ? any test ? 1993 honda accord ?
if your pedal works like it should all you can really do is check for leaks in the system. if air was in there your pedal would most likely fall to the floor.

i had the spring that held the fork to the throwout bearing break on me in an integra. kept it from disengaging.
might be worth a look.
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:31 PM   #3
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might i recommend tryin the slave first! its easier to get to by far and if it doesn't fix your problem then return it!!!
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:00 AM   #4
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might i recommend tryin the slave first! its easier to get to by far and if it doesn't fix your problem then return it!!!
so youre gonna return a slave cyl full of fluid and say that you didnt need it?

if you tried that shit at my store you would be laughed out of the place in shame for being foolish enough to think that you would actually get your money back.

but hey, thats just me being a parts guy.
a real parts guy, not a kragen or autozone EMPLOYEE.

it baffles me that stores still let this kind of thing happen.
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Old 05-07-2009, 03:55 AM   #5
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usually if the master is out but the slave is good then you will push the pedal in and it will slowly release, then you will have to pump the pedal to get it to work.

if the slave is bad, the pedal just...SOOONK...to the floor and stays there.

If the slaves boot is wet replace/rebuild it...$25/$13...your choice.

If you see fluid under the master (look on the inside of the car RIGHT where the pedal pushes the masters cylinder) if there is fluid/debri, replace/rebuild it as well. $55/$28...again your choice.

I rebuilt my slave and need to rebuild my master. It's an old car...most likely need both. Don't return the slave if you do buy one...just keep it on.

BENCH BLEED THE MASTER!!! Or you will be bleeding that bitch on the car for EVER!
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Old 07-22-2009, 08:43 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by bcjammerx View Post
usually if the master is out but the slave is good then you will push the pedal in and it will slowly release, then you will have to pump the pedal to get it to work.

if the slave is bad, the pedal just...SOOONK...to the floor and stays there.

If the slaves boot is wet replace/rebuild it...$25/$13...your choice.

If you see fluid under the master (look on the inside of the car RIGHT where the pedal pushes the masters cylinder) if there is fluid/debri, replace/rebuild it as well. $55/$28...again your choice.

I rebuilt my slave and need to rebuild my master. It's an old car...most likely need both. Don't return the slave if you do buy one...just keep it on.

BENCH BLEED THE MASTER!!! Or you will be bleeding that bitch on the car for EVER!
so doing what you said, I replaced my slave just now... but my pedal stays to the floor. Before it use to stay down but not completely to the floor and in a few come back up. So what should i do?
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Old 07-23-2009, 11:57 AM   #7
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so doing what you said, I replaced my slave just now... but my pedal stays to the floor. Before it use to stay down but not completely to the floor and in a few come back up. So what should i do?
Did you build pressure when you replaced your slave cylinder?? You have to pump the clutch to build pressure, just like when you bleed you brakes. You need 2 people to do this. 1 person vigously pumping the clutch with his hands at least 10 times then hold it to the floor. Then person 2 turning the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder when person 1 is holding it to the floor. After air is released when bleeder screw turned, tighten bleeder screw and person 1 can release clutch and repeat process. This took me a while. But eventually, pressure should build and the clutch should rise from the floor.
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:56 PM   #8
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1991 honda accord clutch slave cylinder location on car???????

Hello i just replaced my master clutch cylinder and still nothing but straight to the damn floor so i just purchased a new clutch slave cylinder but know one seems to know where this part is located on my damn car including myself ans iam just looking for some help asap please if anyone on here knows where i can find this parts location please send me a message i would be very appreciative.
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:03 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by pkgotnos69 View Post
Hello i just replaced my master clutch cylinder and still nothing but straight to the damn floor so i just purchased a new clutch slave cylinder but know one seems to know where this part is located on my damn car including myself ans iam just looking for some help asap please if anyone on here knows where i can find this parts location please send me a message i would be very appreciative.
Stand in front of your bumper with the hood up. Now look at the front of your engine, just to the left of the exhaust manifold and between the radiator fan and the engine, at about the height of your mid to upper shin. There is a small metal cylinder attached there with a hydraulic line running into it from on top of it. The cylinder has a rubber boot on the left end of it, and a shiny metal rod sticking out of the rubber boot.

That is your clutch slave cylinder. The rod is the slave cylinder pushrod. The fork it presses on is called the clutch release fork.

Last edited by batever; 03-28-2010 at 02:12 AM.
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Old 03-28-2010, 02:06 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by plee3 View Post
Did you build pressure when you replaced your slave cylinder?? You have to pump the clutch to build pressure, just like when you bleed you brakes. You need 2 people to do this. 1 person vigously pumping the clutch with his hands at least 10 times then hold it to the floor. Then person 2 turning the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder when person 1 is holding it to the floor. After air is released when bleeder screw turned, tighten bleeder screw and person 1 can release clutch and repeat process. This took me a while. But eventually, pressure should build and the clutch should rise from the floor.
You can do this with one person if you pump the clutch pedal with a length of 2x4 and then hold it in place with a length of 2x4 against the driver's seat (adjust the seat in its track so it's at the right distance from the clutch pedal. A 2 foot length of 2x4 works well-one about as long as the section of your leg from the knee to the ball of your foot) Which is how I do all of my clutch and brake bleeding because I never seem to have anyone around when I'm doing it.
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:44 AM   #11
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i had the spring that held the fork to the throwout bearing break on me in an integra. kept it from disengaging.
might be worth a look.[/quote]

i think this happened to my car how can i replace do i have take down the tranny for this?
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Old 03-29-2010, 03:35 AM   #12
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buy a one man bleeder kit, they are only like 10 bucks. makes it so much easier to bleed brakes or clutch.
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