i looked in the diys and i read all 13 pages and no 1 asked of the 1990-1993 wagon rear disk set up will work . so will the wagon rear disk set up work ??
Announcement
Collapse
1 of 2
<
>
ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2
<
>
Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less
rear disk conversion
Collapse
X
-
Can antybody explain what is the deal with rear disk conversion? It's not like you are going to notice a difference in braking power and it is not like it saves any weight. The drum brakes work just fine, I can see this conversion being worthwhile if you do other brake system upgrades and take the car to the track every weekend. But on a daily driver... only to tell somebody that you have done a disk brake conversion?
Comment
-
Originally posted by rexload View PostCan antybody explain what is the deal with rear disk conversion? It's not like you are going to notice a difference in braking power and it is not like it saves any weight. The drum brakes work just fine, I can see this conversion being worthwhile if you do other brake system upgrades and take the car to the track every weekend. But on a daily driver... only to tell somebody that you have done a disk brake conversion?
But like randomcustoms said, ease of changing is a big plus.
If you can get the parts for cheap and don't have anything to do for a day, why not do it, right?
That and they look better then drums.
Comment
-
true.. only reason i would do the swap for my dd is for ease of fixing the brakes.. but since i dont really know how much it cost to get all the parts for the swap, its not worth my time or money "right now".. maybe somewhere down the road in the future, but i doubt it.. besides, i kinda like the look of painted drum brakes.. LOL
Comment
-
Originally posted by NinJa_FLiP View Posttrue.. only reason i would do the swap for my dd is for ease of fixing the brakes.. but since i dont really know how much it cost to get all the parts for the swap, its not worth my time or money "right now".. maybe somewhere down the road in the future, but i doubt it.. besides, i kinda like the look of painted drum brakes.. LOL
Price wise, I picked up my rear disc conversion pieces/parts for $125.
Comment
-
yeah, though you'll probably want to replace the wear items on the junkyard parts... but the solid metal parts will be fine. Replace the rotors and pads (obviously). Replace the bushings. Bearings if they're no good (I'd do it anyway... everything is off the car and easy to work with). It can be done cheaply, but I'd wait until you can put a little more money into doing it right.
Also, the 40/40 prop valve from an Integra is a must... people always say "my brakes are fine... my rears grab great without it!"... and that's the point. You don't want your rears to grab as strong as your fronts, or you can spin out!
Comment
-
Originally posted by deevergote. View PostAlso, the 40/40 prop valve from an Integra is a must... people always say "my brakes are fine... my rears grab great without it!"... and that's the point. You don't want your rears to grab as strong as your fronts, or you can spin out!wat?
Comment
-
Deev is right, the 4040 is well worth getting. A lot of people who have done the swap have said it's not necessary (which it isn't) but it's nice to have. Should be able to get one for around $30 or so.
I did get the parts for $125, but then spent another $200+ to get the rotors machined, new pads, replacement pieces and parts (the caliper piston boots were starting to crack so they needed to be replaced, the ball joint boots were torn so those were replaced, a few nuts and bolts here and there), and of course worn bushing needed to be removed and new ones pushed back in.
So yes you can you can do it for less, but why not fix/replace those parts that are already in dire need of replacement OFF the car? I spent more money then I wanted to doing the swap, but I'm glad I did, the rears are done and I don't have to mess with anything on them for years (except regular maintenance like new brake pads).
Comment
Comment