GENERAL LIST
1. 5 speed transmission (F22, F23, H22, H23)
2. 5 speed starter (90-02 Accord 92-02 Prelude)
3. 5 speed shifter assembly w/ shifter cables (90-97 Accord, 92-96 Prelude)
4. 5 speed drivers side axle (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
5. 5 speed intermediate shaft (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
6. 5 speed clutch pedal assembly (90-97 Accord, 92-96 Prelude)
7. 5 speed brake pedal arm (90-93 Accord, 94-97 Accord)
8. Clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir and lines (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
9. Clutch line from Clutch master cylinder to clutch dampener (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
10. Clutch dampener assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
11. Clutch line from Clutch dampener to 5 speed tranny (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
12. Clutch line from 5 speed tranny to slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
13. Slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
14. Clutch (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
15. Flywheel (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
16. 5 speed mount (Your year, 5-spd version) more info on this here: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8873
17. 5 speed mount bracket (go to Honda - tell them to look for the bracket that is welded on the car - part is S.O.P and costs 15-25.00) (see notes)
18. MIG WELDER (see notes)
19. BOLTS: 8 Flywheel Bolts, 6 Pressure Plate Bolts, 3 Intermediate Shaft Bolts, 1 Long Tranny Bolt
20. Recommended: HELMS Service Manual (www.helminc.com)
DISASSEMBLY
Jack up the front of your car and place a jackstand on each side of the car as high as possible. You can go ahead and lower the jack and move it to the side. Once this is done, we’ll move to the inside and prep the interior. Take this time to go ahead and remove the armrest console, cupholder, center console bezel (black piece), steering column cover, and your driver’s seat. While you’re at it, go ahead and unbolt the ecu shield under the passenger’s footrest and undo your ecu. Keep in mind to keep all your screws and bolts in multiple Ziploc bags so you don’t mix them up and don’t lose any either.
Now move to your engine bay. Go ahead and disconnect your battery and remove it and the battery tray underneath. Undo your cold air intake, or your intake assembly now. You will not need to remove your distributor but unbolt your automatic starter at this time.
Take this chance to drain your auto tranny fluid and work on other things. Take the wheels off and set them aside. Remove the axle nut (36mm). (note: this nut is at 180 lb-ft, the best way to remove the bolt is to put an extension pipe on the socket wrench you are using, works great, have someone stomp on the brakes as you loosen it) I used and ended up breaking about 5 breaker bars trying to get mine off.
It is imperative to get the driver’s side nut off so work on this side first. The passenger’s side is not so imperative and is actually time-saving to not do it. I will explain why soon. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (17mm) on both sides. Take a floor jack and start to raise the car up on the lower knuckle so the ball joint pops out or you can use a ball joint separator (looks like a fork). When you have the ball joint removed, remove the driver’s side axle. At this point, you can either also remove the passenger’s side axle is you removed the nut, or you’ll just lift up the hub with the axle attached and place a jackstand under it to hold it aside.
To pry the axles from the tranny, insert a decent size flat head screwdriver in-between the axle and the tranny, then just pop it. It will pop out of socket, then you can pull it out the rest of the way. Be sure to keep pressure on the ends of the axles because if the cv joints come apart its not fun putting them back together. Unbolt most of the bolts holding the lower splash guard on the passenger’s side and swing it around to the left. Remove the passenger side radius rod (suspension piece right under the tranny), but don’t lose the bushings or shims.
By this time at least, you can remove the drained fluid from under the car. You do not need to drop the centerbeam to do the tranny swap. Since you’re still under the engine go ahead and undo all the electrical connectors around the tranny area and everything that attaches so. Try to avoid disconnecting the vacuum lines because by the time you’re putting it back together you’ll forget how many you disconnected.
Also undo the shift cable and torque converter cover from the auto tranny from underneath. At this point crawl underneath the car more, make sure you have another person to watch you, you’ll be unbolting the heat shield above the cat so that you can loosen two or three of the bolts holding the auto shifter assembly in. You don’t need to unbolt the cat or anything. All hangars can still remain on.
Now you have to remove each of the 8 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This is done 1 or 2 at a time, and then you must rotate the crank to get to the next couple. It’s easier to have one person at the crank and ratcheting at it while one person undoes the 8 bolts. Make sure you have something holding the tranny (jack or lift). Remove the tranny bell housing bolts from both sides (tranny into engine side and engine into tranny side) and remove the tranny mount. To gain access to one of the tranny bell bolts you need to undo the oil filter. Just unscrew it and place it aside, the oil loss will be minimal. Drop the tranny slowly. Be careful because it's ridiculously heavy. You’ll lower the tranny and swing it out through the passenger’s side wheel well. Just keep shimmying and rotating it over until you have it completely out. Remove the 8 bolts holding the flex plate to the block. They are 17 mm 12 point sockets.
1. 5 speed transmission (F22, F23, H22, H23)
2. 5 speed starter (90-02 Accord 92-02 Prelude)
3. 5 speed shifter assembly w/ shifter cables (90-97 Accord, 92-96 Prelude)
4. 5 speed drivers side axle (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
5. 5 speed intermediate shaft (your year accord, but from 5-spd version)
6. 5 speed clutch pedal assembly (90-97 Accord, 92-96 Prelude)
7. 5 speed brake pedal arm (90-93 Accord, 94-97 Accord)
8. Clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir and lines (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
9. Clutch line from Clutch master cylinder to clutch dampener (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
10. Clutch dampener assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
11. Clutch line from Clutch dampener to 5 speed tranny (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
12. Clutch line from 5 speed tranny to slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
13. Slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude)
14. Clutch (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
15. Flywheel (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude)
16. 5 speed mount (Your year, 5-spd version) more info on this here: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8873
17. 5 speed mount bracket (go to Honda - tell them to look for the bracket that is welded on the car - part is S.O.P and costs 15-25.00) (see notes)
18. MIG WELDER (see notes)
19. BOLTS: 8 Flywheel Bolts, 6 Pressure Plate Bolts, 3 Intermediate Shaft Bolts, 1 Long Tranny Bolt
20. Recommended: HELMS Service Manual (www.helminc.com)
DISASSEMBLY
Jack up the front of your car and place a jackstand on each side of the car as high as possible. You can go ahead and lower the jack and move it to the side. Once this is done, we’ll move to the inside and prep the interior. Take this time to go ahead and remove the armrest console, cupholder, center console bezel (black piece), steering column cover, and your driver’s seat. While you’re at it, go ahead and unbolt the ecu shield under the passenger’s footrest and undo your ecu. Keep in mind to keep all your screws and bolts in multiple Ziploc bags so you don’t mix them up and don’t lose any either.
Now move to your engine bay. Go ahead and disconnect your battery and remove it and the battery tray underneath. Undo your cold air intake, or your intake assembly now. You will not need to remove your distributor but unbolt your automatic starter at this time.
Take this chance to drain your auto tranny fluid and work on other things. Take the wheels off and set them aside. Remove the axle nut (36mm). (note: this nut is at 180 lb-ft, the best way to remove the bolt is to put an extension pipe on the socket wrench you are using, works great, have someone stomp on the brakes as you loosen it) I used and ended up breaking about 5 breaker bars trying to get mine off.
It is imperative to get the driver’s side nut off so work on this side first. The passenger’s side is not so imperative and is actually time-saving to not do it. I will explain why soon. Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (17mm) on both sides. Take a floor jack and start to raise the car up on the lower knuckle so the ball joint pops out or you can use a ball joint separator (looks like a fork). When you have the ball joint removed, remove the driver’s side axle. At this point, you can either also remove the passenger’s side axle is you removed the nut, or you’ll just lift up the hub with the axle attached and place a jackstand under it to hold it aside.
To pry the axles from the tranny, insert a decent size flat head screwdriver in-between the axle and the tranny, then just pop it. It will pop out of socket, then you can pull it out the rest of the way. Be sure to keep pressure on the ends of the axles because if the cv joints come apart its not fun putting them back together. Unbolt most of the bolts holding the lower splash guard on the passenger’s side and swing it around to the left. Remove the passenger side radius rod (suspension piece right under the tranny), but don’t lose the bushings or shims.
By this time at least, you can remove the drained fluid from under the car. You do not need to drop the centerbeam to do the tranny swap. Since you’re still under the engine go ahead and undo all the electrical connectors around the tranny area and everything that attaches so. Try to avoid disconnecting the vacuum lines because by the time you’re putting it back together you’ll forget how many you disconnected.
Also undo the shift cable and torque converter cover from the auto tranny from underneath. At this point crawl underneath the car more, make sure you have another person to watch you, you’ll be unbolting the heat shield above the cat so that you can loosen two or three of the bolts holding the auto shifter assembly in. You don’t need to unbolt the cat or anything. All hangars can still remain on.
Now you have to remove each of the 8 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This is done 1 or 2 at a time, and then you must rotate the crank to get to the next couple. It’s easier to have one person at the crank and ratcheting at it while one person undoes the 8 bolts. Make sure you have something holding the tranny (jack or lift). Remove the tranny bell housing bolts from both sides (tranny into engine side and engine into tranny side) and remove the tranny mount. To gain access to one of the tranny bell bolts you need to undo the oil filter. Just unscrew it and place it aside, the oil loss will be minimal. Drop the tranny slowly. Be careful because it's ridiculously heavy. You’ll lower the tranny and swing it out through the passenger’s side wheel well. Just keep shimmying and rotating it over until you have it completely out. Remove the 8 bolts holding the flex plate to the block. They are 17 mm 12 point sockets.
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