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SUSP: Rear Drum Brake Shoe Replacement

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    SUSP: Rear Drum Brake Shoe Replacement

    I'm doing this right now and found a video online that I'll use to replace them with. But I'll just post this up if anyone else is looking for something to use to follow as a guideline


    member's ride thread
    93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
    99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
    91 Accord SE 176k
    97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

    #2
    Originally posted by Losiracer2 View Post
    I'm doing this right now and found a video online that I'll use to replace them with. But I'll just post this up if anyone else is looking for something to use to follow as a guideline

    I love Eric The Car Guy. I recommend anyone on this site to watch all his videos.

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      #3
      ok, just got done with the rear drum brakes....All I have to say is don't cheap out on Autzone "Duralast" brakes, they've got less friction material than the OE Honda pads I found out.

      I did a little more research and found out that Wagner Thermo Quiet rear brake shoes have exactly the same friction material as OE. They were like 23.99 at Oreilly Auto parts. Honda I think wants 65 bucks for OEM rear shoes.

      Also, I'm having a little difficulty adjusting the rear shoes...I don't know how tight I should make it using the adjuster nut....after installing them, I pull the E brake while driving and they don't lock up.

      Is this because the shoes need to self adjust?

      member's ride thread
      93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
      99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
      91 Accord SE 176k
      97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

      Comment


        #4
        if you spin the wheel by hand, it should rotate about 2 to 3 times and then stop. that is how you adjust the brakes using the adjuster.

        as for your other problem, i have no idea. its either you have to adjust the e brake cable, or maybe you need new drums. i had this problem 4 years ago with my white ex and never found out what the problem was.
        are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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          #5
          Originally posted by alb_accord View Post
          if you spin the wheel by hand, it should rotate about 2 to 3 times and then stop. that is how you adjust the brakes using the adjuster.

          as for your other problem, i have no idea. its either you have to adjust the e brake cable, or maybe you need new drums. i had this problem 4 years ago with my white ex and never found out what the problem was.
          well the brake pedal feel and stopping power are both good, but I just don't want to be taxing the front brakes more than I'm supposed to or cause excessive drag when driving b/c I know that things expand with heat

          member's ride thread
          93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
          99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
          91 Accord SE 176k
          97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

          Comment


            #6
            I know this is an old thread but the way I adjust mine is to tighten the adjuster nut until the drum can only spin one full revolution with your hands turning the drum. A little less is fine but as long as it does not stick. Once done you should have any where from 4-5 click on the e-brake. No more than 7 clicks. I like to drive with the rear drums tighter as the pedal is more solid this way. It helps the front from wearing out. My front pads are OEM and it still have about 70% or more after 60K miles on it. I think I have to remove the pads and lube the slight pins after 60K miles.

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              #7
              Wow this thread is very helpful . Ok so as long as you can turn the drum to one full revolution then its good right ? Another question , the car that he did is a Van ... Is it gonna be the same as our cars ?

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