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Old 03-28-2012, 10:06 PM   #1
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Brake pad wear: Driver's side inner pad wearing faster than others.

I'm having this issue on both my CB7 and my 09 Fit. The inner brake pad on my driver's side wears faster than the other 3 pads on both cars. Does anyone know the cause of this, and how to fix it? Or is it just a normal thing (the wear indicator IS on the inner pad...)
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:18 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
I'm having this issue on both my CB7 and my 09 Fit. The inner brake pad on my driver's side wears faster than the other 3 pads on both cars. Does anyone know the cause of this, and how to fix it? Or is it just a normal thing (the wear indicator IS on the inner pad...)
Well for one, the inner pad has the piston pushing on it, and how hard do you brake? Mine wear evenly, but I'm easy on my brakes....
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:23 PM   #3
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Yeah, but only the driver's side inner. The passenger side pads wear pretty evenly!

In the Accord, my braking was pretty normal. In the Fit... yeah, I drive that thing like a stolen racecar. Heel-toeing everywhere, brake-checking assholes, you name it. \

Both cars have about 250k on them.
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:27 PM   #4
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When you say faster - How much faster?


Alot of people say the inner drivers wears faster than the rest because it is the closest to the master.
But to me that doesn't make sense because hydraulic fluid doesn't compress, therefore they must all move at the same time.

Do you lightly ride the brake without knowing by any chance?
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:27 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by deevergote View Post
Yeah, but only the driver's side inner. The passenger side pads wear pretty evenly!

In the Accord, my braking was pretty normal. In the Fit... yeah, I drive that thing like a stolen racecar. Heel-toeing everywhere, brake-checking assholes, you name it. \

Both cars have about 250k on them.
Would it be safe to assume the front driver would get more pressure because it's so close to the master cylinder?

You heel-toe your Fit? Bwahahaha!
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:32 PM   #6
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Interesting, my driver's front OUTER pad wears much quicker than the other 3 front ones....It is about 1/8" thinner than the other 3.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:59 PM   #7
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I have seen this also when I was replacing my brothers CD accord.

I did notice the slide pins where rock hard. I was in a hurry and just put on new brake pads.

Looking back It (didnt occur to me at the time) but the uneven wear may likely have something to do with it. If more pressure is being applied in one side (with the aid of a moving slide pin) it would even out the pressure with the other side.

Im no expert, but I would say check the condition of your slide pins. Some say they were even slightly bent (over time) causing it to stick.

It may just be a case that it just needs some coaxing and a little grease to get it back to operational condition. At worse it may need a replacement since they are rock hard to bend and may not be able to restraighten perfectly.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:33 AM   #8
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Are the spring shims present? Can you push the calipers piston back in by hand? Are the slides free and greased properly, along with all other contact points?

When was the last time your purged your fluid? If your going 40-80 mph and you brake hard without holding the steering wheel.. does the car stop in a straight line?

If the caliper is stiffer than the others it will retract less when you let up on the brakes. This could cause the wear, or missing spring clips aren't there to keep the pad from occasionally touching the rotor. Poorly working slides will cause the pressure to mostly applied to the piston side.

My remedy is work the piston in/ out about 20 times( pushing it out till the dust boot has no more folds and pushing it all the way back in) put some brake.fluid in the dust boot as well if you can to help lube things up as you work the piston. Push the piston all the way in and keep it snug in there with a c clamp, the bleed the lines. If you have purged fluid prior to working the piston in/out 20 times, you'll see how much garbage you stirred up and got out when you rebleed.

If the caliper was stiff to begin with you should notice considerable difference in the pressure it takes to depress the piston. Additionally a line may be clogged to some extent, this will change the flow characteristics. You can remedy this after everything else has been done. Put everything back on except the wheel, start the engine to get vacuum boost, pump the pedal up hard and have Someone open the bleed screw. A high volume of highly pressurized fluid will then purge your lines. Repeat if you hear crunching of any kind, it means there's rust particulate in the lines.

Dj,while it is closer to the master, and will reciece pressure first, the total pressure in the system will become the same. However the fronts usually engage before the rears as fluid starts to flow and swell the lines.

Last edited by MortsAccord; 03-29-2012 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:35 AM   #9
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The slide pins are in perfect condition on the Fit, anyway. The design is enclosed... there's a rubber boot over the slide, and a regular bolt that holds the caliper in place. The bolt isn't a slide bolt like on the Accord.

Quote:
Originally Posted by evil_demon_01 View Post
When you say faster - How much faster?


Alot of people say the inner drivers wears faster than the rest because it is the closest to the master.
But to me that doesn't make sense because hydraulic fluid doesn't compress, therefore they must all move at the same time.

Do you lightly ride the brake without knowing by any chance?
My driver's side inner was down to the metal backing, all the way through the pad material. The 3 other pads still had friction material left... maybe 1/8"-1/16".

I usually don't ride the brake cautiously in traffic... I will drop a gear and let the engine slow the car usually... but I do drive in stop and go traffic from time to time (cities, rush hour on the highway) so I suppose there is light pressure applied.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:36 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortsAccord View Post
Are the spring shims present? Can you push the calipers piston back in by hand? Are the slides free and greased properly, along with all other contact points?When was the last time your purged your fluid? If your going 40-80 mph and you brake hard without holding the steering wheel.. does the car stop in a straight line?

If the caliper is stiffer than the others it will retract less when you let up on the brakes. This could cause the wear, or missing spring clips aren't there to keep the pad from occasionally touching the rotor. Poorly working slides will cause the pressure to mostly applied to the piston side.

My remedy is work the piston in/ out about 20 times( pushing it out till the dust boot has no more folds and pushing it all the way back in) put some brake.fluid in the dust boot as well if you can to help lube things up as you work the piston. Push the piston all the way in and keep it snug in there with a c clamp, the bleed the lines. If you have purged fluid prior to working the piston in/out 20 times, you'll see how much garbage you stirred up and got out when you rebleed.

If the caliper was stiff to begin with you should notice considerable difference in the pressure it takes to depress the piston. Additionally a line may be clogged to some extent, this will change the flow characteristics. You can remedy this after everything else has been done. Put everything back on except the wheel, start the engine to get vacation boost, pump the pedal up hard and have Someone open the bleed screw. A highly pressurized high volume of fluid will then purge your lines. Repeat if you hear crunching of any kind, it means there's rust particulate in the lines.
this what i feel is your problem
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:37 AM   #11
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I know they're not in the Accord, but they're sealed in the Fit... and this is only my 4th brake change!
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:44 AM   #12
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Pad wear doesn't matter much as long as its not ridiculous. 1/8th isn't a problem. Id say more than 3/16ths-1/4th extra wear on a single pad is a bad issue, and you'd probably have noticed the cars braking is not in a straight line first.

I murder pads. I live on a hill and do allot of downhill high speed stopping. For the early moments of my morning commute. Gone through 4 sets in 2 years on my wifes Malibu. In under 30k miles. I eats brake pads.
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Old 03-29-2012, 12:47 AM   #13
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My Fit's braking isn't in a straight line because at least one shock is blown... I really do beat the crap out of that poor little thing!
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:06 AM   #14
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Pad wear doesn't matter much as long as its not ridiculous. 1/8th isn't a problem.
Agreed.


1/8" is not an issue Mike which is why I asked.

That could genuinely be for multiple reasons, but its not to be concerned about.
I thought you got it serviced at the dealer - Or was that only up until the warranty ended?
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:21 AM   #15
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I get repairs done by the dealer, but basic stuff I have done elsewhere (or do it myself)... oil, tires, brakes...
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:42 AM   #16
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Other factors to consider are weight distribution, you drive alone alot I'm betting, and driving style. More turns one way than the other. 1/8" difference is very good. Pads almost never wear perfectly evenly.
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:28 PM   #17
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I do drive alone 99% of the time, and I corner hard... I'm pretty sure I take right turns harder than most left turns, because I once crashed turning left. I fight it, but I can still feel myself hesitate a bit (if any of you ever compete against me on a track, there's my weakness!)
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:30 PM   #18
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When is the last time you changed your brake fluid and done a brake line replacement?Your brake line might be binding.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:01 PM   #19
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I see this all the time at work. For the cb tear the brakes down, use a drill bit one size below the bore of the caliper slide pins on the bracket. Use some pb blaster for lube, use the drill bit to take out any unwanted scale and debris(clean with brake clean when done).Also use a wire brush on the brackets to remove brake dust and debris. I would also suggest getting a hardware kit from the parts store for about 25-35 bucks a side.(make sure you tell them you need the caliper slide pins and bolts, should come with new rubber boots). Use synthetic caliper grease and grease the slide pins, the tabs on the pads where they ride on the hardware and the back of the pads as well. For the fit i would recommend taking the slide pins out and cleaning them with a wire wheel as well as greasing and cleaning all the hardware. If your brakes are not properly cleaned and greased every time there done these are the problems that will follow.
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Old 03-29-2012, 11:03 PM   #20
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Thanks 92Inspire, I'll give that a shot. Probably when I do either my 5 lug conversion or my ROH conversion... whichever I end up doing.

ferenza, the Fit's fluid SHOULD have been changed last summer, but it looks like weak iced tea right now, so it's possible they didn't do it. I'll have to find the work order (granted, it's been 50,000 miles since that service, at least!) I'm thinking of doing a brake fluid change soon in that car.
The CB7s is practically new. I had a new master cylinder installed very shortly before the car went down.
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