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Old 03-17-2005, 11:19 PM   #1
i'm the girl
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Exclamation EXT: prepping and priming

OK, so i just thought i might share some insight on prepping your car for a good paint job- from some of these recent threads i thought it might make for a helpful sticky or something- And, of course, This is only advice, i will not be held responsible for your mistakes and/ or choices. DIY at your OWN risk.

I'm having trouble trying to find the roll of film with the right pics on it - so written instructions are all i can go with...

I'd say go for PPG paint - my experience, its really the best, and if that means you have to search out a PPG dealer, then by all means go for it - if we could find one in the middle of nowhere-north-central Louisiana, then it shouldn't be too hard for you

Make sure you know the type of gun you're using, it's probably HVLP (Hi Volume Lo Pressure) and ours is gravity fed (cups on top, allowing for more consistent, even spray)...

***STEP ONE***Sanding and Body Filling-take care of this ish before you go to the paint booth
- scuff sand the car all over to create a better surface for sealing - you DO NOT need to sand off all the paint, just rough it up
- any areas that require filler (small dings, rust spots, etc) should be COMPLETELY sanded down so that you are applying the bondo directly to the bare metal - deep rust will need to be cut out with new pieces welded in; and large dents will need to be pulled or replaced-fill in your low spots with bondo, working efficiently and carefully so that everything is as even and smooth as possible (i can give you more bondo tips later if you need)... you can test the smoothness by eying it or rubbing your finger accross once it is all dried




***STEP TWO***The Epoxy Primer-Sealer
Before you start:
**wear sleeves, long legs, eye protection, and get a good respirator, or, at the very least, the appropriate face mask- because those fumes WILL mess you up - a pack of cheap latex disposable gloves will do fine for the job
**we also normally lay plastic dropcloth on the booth/garage floor under the car before we start as well as all around the sides

and NOW....
**remove your head and taillight assemblies, put them somewhere moisture-free - we also take the side view mirrors off, but you could just cover them up if you'd prefer

**cover up your exhaust, especially if it's aftermarket - the last thing you want is to be is removing paint from that beautiful chrome cause it's a bITCH
**with painter's tape (scotch brand 1 - 1/4" blue tape works best, imo) and craft paper, cover up your windows and anything else you don't want to paint
- your paint store should have rolls of this readily availible for pretty cheap

**apply the primer-sealer - we used MP170, a gray, non-chrome sealer that mixes at a 2:1 ratio with its catalyst, MP175
- keep an even distance ( about 6-10" away) and apply the primer smoothly and steadily
- get a nice even coat on there, about 1mm, don't over spray because you'll get runs and drips with a possible orange peel issue as your end result
- just keep this in mind: the primer-sealer is a layer that you DO NOT sand, so it is important to take as much care with it as you can

**dry time 30min @ 70F air temp (that's a rough estimate)... and take the time to let it dry properly; iknow that might seem like common sense but im just trying to get as much as i can covered for you
- it may take a little longer if the air is not dry enough and your booth is not temperature controlled (colder = longer) and too much humidity will equal a crappy job





***STEP THREE***Primer Surfacer**we used PPG MP181 1K Primer-Surfacer which mixes at a 1:1 ratio with MR Reducer

**Paint this on just as you did the last one and allow fair time to dry

**Wet sand as well as you can - smooth that car to where it almost feels as slick as bare metal (there may be some spots wher your sanding reveals the lighter gray sealer underneath... thats OK : )

**sand and prime sand and prime until everything is perfect then prime it one last time









***STEP FOUR*** put your car back together










***STEP FIVE*** take her to the paint shop
(or move on to painting it yourself. and save the putting together for later)

Looking at receipts, prep materials alone (primer and catalyst/reducer, sandpaper, craft paper, tape ...etc) ran us about $200 after tax

if you do decide to do your own paint, be wary that factory colors are expensive -- our basecoat + clear and whatnot was a little more than $300... but red is also an expensive color -- there are other brands you can use, too, so do your research and find what you thing will work best

p.s. you can NEVER have too much sandpaper -- for the initial strip-down we use an orbital sander(and also a LOT of elbow grease and hand sanding)

just remember, the only layer of paint that SEALS your car is the clear coat - all primers and multi-stage coats are porous and suceptible to rapid wear/ pitting/fading etc... if you don't finish the job in a fair amount of time


and the prep work is 90% of a good looking finished product... it doesn't matter how nice your base and clear are- it's wasted if you don't take your time on the first steps


...yeah that was a mouthful but i hope it was a helpful one and any additions/questions/comments would be great
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:28 PM   #2
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You should add what grit of sand paper to use at each step and tell what "wet sanding" is.
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:40 PM   #3
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wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.

Also OEM honda paint is NOT expensive. you can get it for aorun 60 bucks a pint and it is premixed with the pearls and all in it. all you have to add is the hardener.
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:49 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSTEDCB7
wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.

Also OEM honda paint is NOT expensive. you can get it for aorun 60 bucks a pint and it is premixed with the pearls and all in it. all you have to add is the hardener.
ok well i guess "expensive" is a relative term b/c there are plenty of paints that cost a lot more - we paid $92/qt for san marino red, and it was going at about 50/pt (just like you said)

we prefer multistage paint, too - which means your clear is separate (pearl too) so it costs a little more, but that's my personal prefence, so i couldn't reccommend a good single stage paint (base & clear all in one)
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Old 03-17-2005, 11:52 PM   #5
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honda OEM paint DOES NOT include clear (i found that out) I asked if it was single stage and they said you have to hit it with clear because it will look dull if they added the clear to it.

But yeah I prefer a multi stage also. I am going back to bordeaux red pearl so it will be fun working it.
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1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:39 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSTEDCB7
honda OEM paint DOES NOT include clear (i found that out) I asked if it was single stage and they said you have to hit it with clear because it will look dull if they added the clear to it
...exactly certain suppliers (e.g. PPG) may be able to make you a single stage that is OEM matched - but it's not the same


p.s. pearl finishes, metal flake, etc. are added into the CLEAR COAT, not the base
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Old 03-18-2005, 12:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSTEDCB7
wet sanding is pretty self explanatory.
no, its not. do i mist with a water bottle while sanding? do i spit on the car and then rub a wet stone against it? explain please.
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:42 PM   #8
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Sandpaper!!

Ok - general tips on sandpaper -- although if your car has multiple layers of paint or is the victim of a shitty repair job, you'll have a little more work in front of you

240 - 320 on the initial dry scuff sanding, if you want to taper down/blend into the low points, you can use up to 400 in those areas
**after the initial sanding, its also important to use a cleaner/desgreaser to get off all that dust -- if you don't it will inevitably make for more problems later**

we use 320 - 400 on the bondo and then 400 to 600 to 800 then 1000 when we wet sand and prime, wet sand and prime, etc.

What is Wet Sanding?

make sure you're using wet/dry sandpaper, black silica is a good choice, imo
and work with a wet surface and a bucket of water

this helps create a much smoother finish, and helps keep the paper from clogging so it lasts longer

**working from a 400 to 1000 grit paper on the priming and wet sanding is for the reasons of smoothing the body down as perfectly as possible - - basically, sand down until smooth,let the water dry, then reprime, let the primer dry and check if you need to sand again...

just remember, the finer the detail, the higher the grit

(still no luck finding the pictures grrr.... im still looking)
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Old 03-18-2005, 01:48 PM   #9
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damn good write up...i might as you for some help when sally is ready to get painted...two thumbs up for this thread
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Old 03-18-2005, 03:51 PM   #10
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i know the pearl and etc are in the clear. That is why i said the clear comes seperate
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1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **

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Old 03-18-2005, 04:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSTEDCB7
i know the pearl and etc are in the clear. That is why i said the clear comes seperate
sorry that was just a general note for anyone - some people may not be aware
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Old 03-18-2005, 09:08 PM   #12
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i have pics of my car sanded, if you need any?
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Old 03-18-2005, 09:09 PM   #13
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wed post those pics for everyone to see
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Old 03-19-2005, 01:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wed3k
i have pics of my car sanded, if you need any?
might help -- i was stupid and didn't label the roll of film with ours on it... and i have about 10 b/w 10 color to develop sooo....
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Old 03-19-2005, 01:34 AM   #15
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one mistake was using a paintbrush to brush the primer on, and i didnt sand it smooth when i brought it to the shop, lol.

last pic is where my roof had mad oxidation so sanding thru the clear coat was kinda easy...
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Old 03-20-2005, 09:35 PM   #16
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awesome write up.
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Old 03-20-2005, 11:42 PM   #17
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thanks - just lookin out
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Old 03-22-2005, 11:57 AM   #18
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when it comes to do some touch ups what paint and primes u suggest we buy.
for now i got regular white primer.
for the rust i got some rust neutralizer since its not deep.
for paint i am looking for some frost white paint which is turning out to be hard to find.

and all of these are in cans that u buy at a automotive store.

i don't wanna talk about the clear coat. <<<<<having real hard time on finding one.
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Old 03-22-2005, 01:47 PM   #19
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so most of the cars i see running around in that dull grey color are fully primered and ready to paint? I wanna try to get the car painted b4 the TN meet. Whats a good pressure to spray the paint? And if i do all the sanding and primering how much would a shop charge to just paint the car with say a nice black color?...Look at me askin newbie questions
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Old 03-22-2005, 02:39 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midnite racer x
so most of the cars i see running around in that dull grey color are fully primered and ready to paint? I wanna try to get the car painted b4 the TN meet. Whats a good pressure to spray the paint? And if i do all the sanding and primering how much would a shop charge to just paint the car with say a nice black color?...Look at me askin newbie questions
like this....?

yeah that's the primer coat (over the primer-sealer) - sprayed with a pressure fed gun, although now we're starting to use gravity-fed (I think it's better, one less element to worry about) I'll have to get back to you later (check on thursday)about pressure specifics, because my husband is the one who takes care of the compressor ... I do know that there are two pressure regulators to worry about, though - one on the gun and one on the compressor, so I'll get you better info in a few days

As for your shop costs - it all depends on the shop and what color you want to use ... since you're doing the prep work yourself, you might even trust maaco to do the base and clear -- but everything all depends (check with people in your area for recommendations)

Just a note: once your car is primed, it's in your best interest to get it to paint within 2-3 days - imo - because clear coat is the only thing that really SEALS your paint job... otherwise you'll start to get pitting and scratches an all sorts of crap and you'll be starting over all over again... the longer you wait for paint, the more chance you have of needing to start over
\
anyway - i'll get back to you on thursday about that pressure;
but that should give you some know-how to get started with
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