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Old 05-09-2013, 12:46 PM   #1
lucifer1
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INT: Door Speaker Installation

This is showing how to do a basic installation of 6.5" component speakers.

Tools needed
  • Philips screwdriver
  • Small flat blade
  • Crimpers
  • Wire strippers
  • Drill and drill bits
  • Jigsaw or router
  • Allen wrenchs

Materials
  • Speakers
  • Solder
  • Shrink tubing
  • Speaker wire
  • 3/4" wood
  • 16 8-32 x 3/4" cap head bolts
  • 4-Deans Connector
  • Bedliner spray
  • foam sheating
  • #8 locking spade connectors
  • Silicone
  • Hot glue


Removing The Front Passenger Panel:
Drivers door is similar


1)Use small flat screwdriver and pop out the clip in the upper front corner.



2)Use a small flat screwdriver and pop up the screw cover in lower rear of panel and remove the philips screw.



3)Use a small flat screwdriver to remove screw cover from armrest pull and remove philips screw.



4)Use a small flat screwdriver and pop up the screw cover behind the pull handle and remove philips screw.




Slide handle forward to front of car to release the hooks and pull towards yourself. Remove door lock switch wire connector(A) and unclip rod(B). Remove door panel screw(C)


After all fasteners are removed, remove panel by pulling with your hands starting at the front and rear bottom of the panel.



After the clips are released, push upward from the rear to unhook the top of the panel.

Unclip the window switch and courtesy light connectors



Midrange

Remove the stock speaker by removing 3 Philips screws and disconnect the wiring.



Ex cars have an enclosure instead of a cup. Remove 4 mounting screws. Once the enclosure is removed, you will find the standard cup's 4 plastic inserts.


Check fit your speaker to see if it fits. If the depth is too deep, then the back of the stock cup can be cut off. If it is too big around in diameter like my speakers or you have EX enclosures, then a new mounting plate needs to be made.

Measure the speaker to determine mounting diameter. I used a perfect sized speaker adapter plate as a template and marked the hole on a piece mdf wood. You can cut the hole with a jigsaw, or if you prefer a perfect hole , a router. Once the hole is cut out, set the stock speaker cup over the wood and mark the outer pattern/mark mounting holes. Use a jigsaw and cut the outside.





Use small drill bit to drill pilot holes, then use a 3/16" bit to enlarge mounting holes. Finally use a 5/16" bit BY HAND to coutersink the holes to about half thickness. Mount the plate to the door using 8-32x3/4" bolts. The bolts will thread into the plastic inserts but if you want it a bit nicer, remove the plastic screw inserts from the door and install 8-32 nutserts in their place. Place speaker in hole to determine the alignment. Once it is in the proper place, mark the holes. Drill the holes with the proper size bit and then tap the holes to 8-32 threads.





Temporarily install the speaker on the plate. Roll the window down to check clearance. If speaker hits the window, add washer(s) to space back window track. Once it is all good, remove speaker and mounting plate.


Since the plate is made out of mdf, it will absorb moisture. Use rattle can Bedliner and cover entire plate front/back/sides to seal it.



Once plate is dry, it can be installed. When installing the plate, it needs to be sealed against the door frame. If not sealed, air from the back of the speaker can leak to the front of the speaker and cancel out the air movement. This results in a lack of bass. I Used 5mm foam to cover the entire backside. This allows the plate to be easily removable for servicing. Also cover the entire front side to seal the speaker to the plate. Once covered, trim the foam and bolt the plate to the door.

Alternatively, if you dont care to remove the ring later- use silicone and cover the rear of the plate then bolt to the door. Once bolted on, lay a bead of silicone around the perimeter and use a finger to smooth it out.





Tweeter
There are many places to mount the tweeter but for ease and being hidden it can simply be put behind the stock grill. I will have a more advanced tweeter diy install soon.

The tweeter can be mounted in different ways. I have a raw tweeter without any mounting hardware so it can simply be attached to the door grill. Place it in the corner and use a couple dabs hot glue to set in place. Use silicone around the perimeter to permanately mount it.



Wiring
Find a suitable location for the crossover and use some self tapping screws to attach to the door frame. Solder a few inches of wire to the midrange and then a male Deans connector to the other end of the wire. Do the same thing for the tweeter.



Cut two sets of wires to reach from the speaker hole to the crossover. Solder a female Deans connector to one set. Solder the other set to the cars speaker wires. Route both sets of wires to the crossover and crimp on #8 locking spades, then connect to the appropriate spot.


Solder the crossover input wires to cars wiring.
crossover + blu/grn to car left side
crossover - gry/blk to car left side

crossover + red/grn to car right side
crossover - brn/blk to car right side

Cut another set of wires to go from tweeter to crossover. Solder female Deans connector on side. Route wire to crossover and crimp on #8 locking spades, then connect to the appropriate spot. Solder male Deans Connector to tweeter wires.

Plug in connector and bolt up the midrange with 8-32x3/4" bolts


Reinstall door panels(don't forget to plug in the tweeters first)
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:11 PM   #2
ShiroiKinCB
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Will tht speaker grill cover hit the speaker once its clipped into place or do you have clearance? Hows the sound difference?
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:08 PM   #3
lucifer1
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It depends in the excursion of the speaker, this one is close but doesn't hit. A thinner piece of wood can be used if needed so it doesn't stick out as far.

Sound difference compared to what?
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:52 PM   #4
SEgirl
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This was very helpful--thanks!
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:45 AM   #5
10thAnnivCB7
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Would installing 6x9 in the front be the same process ? Front and rear ?
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Old 05-11-2013, 01:20 PM   #6
ShiroiKinCB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucifer1 View Post
It depends in the excursion of the speaker, this one is close but doesn't hit. A thinner piece of wood can be used if needed so it doesn't stick out as far.

Sound difference compared to what?
........
the difference between your old speakers and your new component speakers
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:01 PM   #7
lucifer1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10thAnnivCB7 View Post
Would installing 6x9 in the front be the same process ? Front and rear ?
6x9" would need require quite a bit more work in the front with no no benefits.

In the rear, you would need ex speaker mounts if you don't already 6x9". Then you could reinforce the plastic somehow. I have not done rear speakers yet.
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:05 PM   #8
lucifer1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShiroiKinCB View Post
........
the difference between your old speakers and your new component speakers
Haven't heard them yet, it will be a while before the stereo is done. Still need an amp and build sub enclosure/amp rack. But with different radio, added amp and sub, you can't really compare them fairly.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:10 PM   #9
10thAnnivCB7
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I'll keep checking on this if you decide to do the rear speakers. I want to get some JBL GTOs which is why I was asking.
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