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Old 12-20-2018, 09:07 AM   #21
F22Chris
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If fuse 9 (7.5a) is good & is verified to have 12v, and you have no voltage at the clutch switch, then the issue is a faulty connection or break on the blue/red wire.
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Old 12-20-2018, 09:16 AM   #22
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ill check that first... bout to head out and get started.. thank you both so much.. ill let you know in a bit
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:48 PM   #23
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You get it starting?
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Old 12-21-2018, 03:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammed Accord View Post
ok, im at my wits end.. my car wont start with the key, it was working fine stopped to get lunch and it wouldnt start again with the key.. i can jump it at the starter and it starts and runs fine.. i have power to the switch, when i turn the key it sends power from the switch, im now at the clutch switch which im not sure if it is a pos or neg for the clutch switch.. also my plug for the clutch switch only has 2 wires. (M/T) but has spaces for 3 wires.. i think i checked all the relays but im not sure.. i just want to drive my car.. im so streesed out with life i need to cruise my bad ass accord to destress... its not my daily, its my toy.. its what i use to get away on a fast road and use the 2000 watt amp and the 4 12's so i dont put a gun to my head... lol please help... i need to take that drive.. Thank you in advance for any help...
Hey man, sorry to hear about your CB having trouble starting. I totally
understand what you mean about your CB being your way to get away from
life for a while. But take it easy man! Life definitely can get tough. I know
you don't know me but if you ever need to vent to someone or get shit
off your mind you can reach out to me. I had a horrible year & two of my
car buddies who aren't really that close helped me out a bunch.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:31 PM   #25
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Lol yeah donít commit toaster bath just yet. Just follow the diagrams provided, verify voltage and good fuses. Itíll come together & be something simple to fix.

Have you tried just jumping the clutch switch?

I know you said you have new bumpers in the pedal, but double check that theyíre still there.

I used an 8mm bolt/nut to replace both of them when I was rocking a CB. Itís a sure fire way to make sure it never happens again, but if you do that, adjust the switch so that you donít break it when you depress the pedal.
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:12 PM   #26
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ok, so after twisting my neck and spending a day in bed.. i find i have no power to #9 fuse..
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:25 PM   #27
Slammed Accord
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ive never had any real problems with this car,, i just put a new motor in it, the old motor had 300k, a blown head gasket and a dead cylinder, i drove it for a year like that and it still nevere let me down...
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:14 PM   #28
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Let me try and get the full diagram for you tomorrow man.
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:19 PM   #29
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cool, thx
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Old 12-22-2018, 07:38 AM   #30
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Don't let it get you down. Think of it as an opportunity to learn more about your car.
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:52 PM   #31
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This is a long post, but hopefully it is the fix.

Check for resistance/continuity in the wire going directly from your positive battery terminal to the starter. If it reads OL or a super high resistance, replace that wire. If not move on. (I’m going off info from previous posts)

Verify the #9 dash fuse isn’t blown. Test voltage at the #9 fuse (7.5a) while the key is in the START position. According to the diagram, it won’t see any voltage unless the key is in that start position. That’s probably why you don’t see voltage at it.

If the key is in the start position, and you don’t get voltage, stop here and let me know. If you do get voltage move on.

On your clutch switch there should be a BLUE/RED wire and a BLACK/GREEN wire.

Strip back a little insulation off these wires so we can get a reading. Get your multimeter, and set it to read voltage. Ground black lead, and put the red lead on each of these wire. depress the clutch switch. Both wires should get 12v.

If you get a value on both wires, good. If you get power on only one wire, replace clutch the switch.

If still no start, find the starter relay in the driver side dash board and replace it. I could tell you how to test a relay but it’s confusing for those who aren’t familiar with what terminal on a relay does what. If you are, and you get to here, let me know.

If you replace the relay and it STILL doesn’t start with all other factors known to be good, you have a break in the wire going from the starter relay to the solenoid.

Guys if I left anything out please lemme know. Homie needs his car
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Old 12-23-2018, 11:40 AM   #32
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Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the fuse box??
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Old 12-23-2018, 11:53 AM   #33
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power wire from the battery is good.. 9 fuse is good, i tested for power at 9 with the key on, and turned as if im starting it.. no power.. called 2 autozones for the relay, they say they dont show one.. only show the main relay.. im going to run over to pyp in a few and grab bunch of relays.. i had a box of them but no clue where they are now.. does power go from the starter relay to the fuse box or from fuse box to relaay??
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Old 12-23-2018, 11:56 AM   #34
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i swear to god, i will drive this car today
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Old 12-23-2018, 07:04 PM   #35
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No voltage at the #9 means there’s an issue BEFORE it somewhere in the circuit. Test voltage at two more wires.

On your ignition harness that goes from the fuse block to the key tumbler, there’s a WHITE wire. Verify 12v at that wire, it’s a constant 12v so it should have 12v at all times. The other wire that needs to be tested is the BLACK/WHITE wire. This wire will only see voltage when the key is in the START position so you’re gonna have to turn the key like you’re cranking the car to get a reading.

If that white wire has voltage, then that will verify good fuses 15/19, and no breaks in the under hood fuse block to the dash fuse block. If no voltage at the white wire, verify good fuses 19 & 15 in the under hood fuse block, and continuity on the white wire connecting the two fuse blocks.

If the BLACK/WHITE wire has voltage, that means your ignition switch and tumbler are good.

I just edited my last post so look at it again. I didn’t study the diagram too well and gave you some incorrect info, man. My apologies.

You can test your relay once we figure out why that #9 isn’t getting voltage.

Right now the relay won’t even energize the coil because it gets the voltage it needs from the circuit the #9 fuse is in. Given your clutch switch is good.
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Old 12-23-2018, 11:33 PM   #36
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I'll try to describe this in text, but I can draw a quick sketch if it gets confusing. Chris pretty much nailed it tho.

1. Check voltage on WHT wire at ignition harness.
Car can start, so this is good

2. With key in start position, there should be 12 volts present at BLK/WHT wire of ignition harness and BLU/RED wire of clutch switch.

You stated that there was NO power with key in start at Fuse #9. The ignition switch BLK/WHT wire connects directly to Fuse #9 AND provides power to the starter cut relay terminal 30. Your problem lies somewhere between the ignition switch and the dash fuse box as that wire is the voltage supply.

I would do a continuity (resistance) check between Fuse #9 and the BLK/WHT wire at the ignition switch with the key not inserted in the ignition. Report back with the results and we can move to the next step.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:27 PM   #37
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Started?
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Old 12-31-2018, 06:31 PM   #38
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I had same problem after my car was stolen. I just replaced my key ignition switch.Which then it started but kept blowing out oreilly's clutch relay switch. So i went to jy and got a clutch relay switch there and problem solved. The a/c switch and clutch switch are the same product i believe. You could just have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:57 PM   #39
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I had same problem after my car was stolen. I just replaced my key ignition switch.Which then it started but kept blowing out oreilly's clutch relay switch. So i went to jy and got a clutch relay switch there and problem solved. The a/c switch and clutch switch are the same product i believe. You could just have a bad starter solenoid or a bad ground.
Faulty ground, sure why not.

Car starts when jumping the starter solenoid so thatís a good part. The starter relay isnít getting power, so replacing it wonít do anything. Thatís like replacing a blown light bulb because your breaker tripped. Follow the steps Sonik and I gave you, and Iím 100% positive youll find the culprit in the circuit.
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