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Old 01-12-2004, 10:26 PM   #1
accordtunerx
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EXT: The Rust Removal DIY

The Rust Removal DIY

Written by: the one and only… me, lol.

special thanks to my dad for basically teaching me how to do this DIY...

Introduction: If you own a 4th generation accord, chances are – you’ve got the typical rust areas right at the meeting point of your rear bumper and rear quarter panel. Now this rust might not be characteristic of ALL cb7s; but i’ve always noticed at least a little on most that I’ve seen. I was one of the unlucky cb7 owners. I had some pretty ugly quarter panel rust:



It looked like that on both sides. You can tell that I ignored it and tried to hide it with spray paint; but before long - it started to bubble and crack my disguise. I remember taking my accord to a car show at my local raceway last july. The judges almost made a complete 360 degree rotation around my car when they stopped at the rust spot. I remember seeing one of the judges point at the rust and lean over to his partner. His partner said – “is that rust?... looks like rust”, and he answered with an assertive “yeeup”. So I came to the conclusion that – you can spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on oversized wheels and body kits… but the body damage is the first thing that people will notice (especially judges!). That is what will hurt you when it comes to showing your car or just enjoying your car’s appearance in general. So I decided to do something about my rust areas… and you can too!

Tool List (most can be found at lowes/home depot): electric power drill, grinding disc, 60 grit paper for the disc, 3” wire wheel brush, masking tape, bondo body filler, body file, wire brush, bottle of rust neutralizer, sponge brush, chaulking, plastic spreader (to apply the bondo mix), block sander, 220 & 320 grit sandpaper, undercoating spray, primer, duplicolor auto spray paint for your color accord, clearcoat (optional), and of course… safety goggles, face masks, paper towels, and plenty of old newspapers to protect the good paint of the rest of the car!

(not all tools shown below)







Estimated Cost of Project: Assuming you have a power drill already… somewhere near 100.00. Might seem like a pretty pricey DIY – but it’s nothing when compared to having a body shop do the work for you. I had my rust repair quoted at a body shop before attempting this DIY. They gave me the price estimate of 750.00 for both sides! See they actually cut out that bad piece of rusted metal and weld in a new piece. They do a bunch of extra stuff that cranks up the benjamins. It’s not necessary. In this DIY, I will show you how to remove all of your dead rust, prevent the rust from reoccurring, and re-construct your rear quarter panel(s) to look like new. Here’s all you need to know…

Steps:

1. Starting on either side (or you might only have rust on one quarter panel to begin with), unscrew the bolts (3) holding the rear bumper to the quarter panel. There should be a little black clip that you must remove. Place a block of wood in between the bumper and the quarter panel. You don’t want that rear bumper getting in the way of your work!



Look how bad it’s rusted under there… eww:



2. Remove the black trim molding that lines your fender.

3. Using masking tape – tape off the surrounding area of your rust damage.

4. Attach the grinding disc (with 60 grit paper) to your power drill. Holding the disc at a slight angle, press down firmly on the drill and grind away as much of the rust as possible. Also grind away any rust on the inside of the quarter panel! It's extremely important to wear your goggles. Lose an eye, and you can kiss those Auto X dreams goodbye! lol.



What the spot should look like after using the grinding disc:



5. Next, insert the wire wheel into your drill. This will help remove even more of that rust. Use the wire wheel in pretty much the same way that you used the grinding disc. The only difference, is that the wire wheel will help you get up underneath your paint, behind the rust spot, and in all of the other hard to reach areas (that the disc couldn’t reach). It’s also more tough on the rust in general. If the grinding disc didn’t get it all – the wire wheel will! Its extremely important to wear your goggles.



It just seems to keep getting worse!!
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:35 PM   #2
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6. After you’ve gotten rid of all of the rust, you’ll need to neutralize the metal so that there won’t be any reoccurring rust problems in the future. To do this, apply some rust neutralizer solution to a sponge brush and dab the whole area on ALL sides of the rust spot. Let it sit until dry.





A type of rust neutralizer: http://www.krylon.com/product/cl_pro....asp?sgID=CL16

7. Depending on the severity of your rust, you may have to rebuild part of the quarter panel. You will notice that I had lost a good portion on the lower part. I had to fabricate a piece of metal to re-construct the edge of my quarter panel. If you look in some of the above pictures, you will notice that there is a big hole where the bottom of your quarter panel used to be (the part that meets up with the top of the bumper). I would suggest using a piece of tin or aluminum. Use metal that is thin and can be easily cut and shaped with a pair of tin snips and pliers. Once you’ve customized your piece, fit it into place and use pop rivets or some form of epoxy to hold the metal piece in place. each person will have to fabricate a unique piece depending on their situation.

sorry, I do NOT have photos of this process.

8. You will note that there is some original chaulking between the quarter panel and the inner metal. I believe that there was not enough chaulking which allowed water to enter this area causing the rust. Therefore I recommend putting additional chaulking in this area. So, fill in the space between the two pieces of metal and let this chaulking harden.



9. Now it’s time to start the bondo’ing (yes I made that word up). First you will need to mix together your bondo and hardener according to the directions. Go easy on how much hardener you add, the more hardener – the faster it dries!

10. Spread the bondo evenly over the entire area (including the inside of the quarter panel/fender). Be sure to cover the area completely.



11. Let the body filler dry to the touch.

12. Knock the high spots from the body filler with your body file.



13. Check frequently with your hand for high and low spots. If you wind up with low spots, you may have to apply another layer of bondo.



14. When the bondo is fully dry, block sand the entire area with 220 and 320 grit sand paper (respectively). Get the area completely smooth and flush with the rest of the paint on the quarter panel. You should be able to close your eyes and not be able to tell where the bondo’ed area ends and where the (dull-feeling) white paint begins.



When you’ve completed bondo’ing and block sanding the entire area, it should look like this:



lookin’ better now, right?
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:39 PM   #3
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15. Now, prime the entire area with spray primer (don’t forget the inside/bottom of the fender)! Allow time for the primer to dry. I used white primer color





The finished repair ready for the final paint coat. Note that the primer has covered the whole area, even the sanding marks:



oh yeah, it’s all comin’ together now

16. You’re almost done. However, before you apply your final coat of paint you should consider spraying undercoating inside of the wheel well. The undercoating will protect all of the metal that you might have exposed while working on the rust. This will further help prevent any rust from occuring.

17. Now you’re ready for your final coat of paint! I used Duplicolor brand, which was a very accurate color match. Spray in a sweeping motion 8-12” away from the quarter panel. 2-3 light, even coats should be enough. Try to do your best in blending the oem paint with the duplicolor paint. Allow a few hours to dry… the Duplicolor instructions recommend 24 hours for best results.



18. Stick your fender molding back on, stand back, and admire



* You can also spray on some clearcoat for added shine/texture.

Don’t forget to give your car a good wash and waxing. This will buff out the primer/paint overspray that might have gotten on your good oem paint.

* This will work for other types of rust as well, but it’s not as specific as it is for the typical quarter panel type.

This might not be AS professional as a 750.00 job, but it’s a LOT more economical – and it looks 100x better than that nasty rust!!

- Steve
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Old 01-12-2004, 11:06 PM   #4
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wow, awesome DIY...

only question i have is about repainting. ive had a can of the frost white duplicolor, i used it to paint my door handles when i was doing the rear->front conversion... but after it dried it wasnt glossy, it had a very noticeable texture to it... is that how ur repainting turned out? cuz the pics make it look glossy, and really good...
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Old 01-12-2004, 11:11 PM   #5
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yes, my duplicolor turned out dull as well. i probably should've mentioned that in the DIY. but... i recently sprayed on some clearcoat - and it definitely looks and feels more like the oem paint now. it's got a little more shine. but it's not a PERFECT match, and it won't be unfortunately. but like i said - wayy better than the rust, lol

edit: just added the clearcoat option to the DIY.. just as a side note. thanks for the reminder Mike!
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Old 01-13-2004, 12:37 AM   #6
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wow looks awesome man, great job! I'll use this when i get home and do it asap
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Old 01-13-2004, 08:21 AM   #7
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WOW No wonder it took you so fucking long to make the DIY, its perfect, definately nice job, rofl every time i started to get bubbling on the wheel well area my dad takes it in to the dealership to get it fixed, it had to be fixed 3-4 times... if it ever happens on my 5th gen it will be in the shop rite away. heh i always have both sides re done when ones starting to get fucked that way its perfect =).. steve the DIY is A++ unbelieveable...
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:25 AM   #8
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verrry nice.
congrats on such a nice job.
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:28 AM   #9
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thanks guys..

xplode, the reason the rust was reocurring - is because whomever you were taking it to didn't get rid of all of the rust for you. they probably just sanded the rust down and sprayed over it all... that's what i pretty much had done before i decided to take care of it once and for all.
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Old 01-13-2004, 11:51 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by 91accord4door
in some spots theres nothing to put bondo on,the metal is gone,should i go to the junkyard and use a sawzall to cut 2 rear quarters off a decent car and have them welded in?thanks
it would be a huge job to cut out 2 quarter panels from another cb7 and weld them in. that's pretty much what the body shop would do for you - only using new metal.

just because there's holes in the metal doesn't mean that you can't still bondo. even if you've totally lost that chunk of quarter panel there - you can reconstruct it using thin metal. read the 7th step of my DIY for more information.

for instance, here's a picture of how bad my driver's side rust was:



i reconstructed that area - and that's one BIG hole, lol...
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Old 01-13-2004, 12:30 PM   #11
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WEll, the road salt is like Acid for the paint, i mean it should of been done rite, the guys in the shop know my dad real well and they wouldnt be dumb enuf to fuck em over heh... well im buying a Jax car wash plan(550 a year).. i basically just can go every day and wash if i want to not have to pay the 10 bux every time, especially for this winter shit, i end up going 4-5 times a week just to keep it clean.. once winter is over im having my shit detailed again i love that ima get it detailed every 3-4 months.. super sweet.. i still detail the inside and shit mahself, waxing is a biiiitch tho..
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Old 01-13-2004, 10:02 PM   #12
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Hey

What kind of bondo did you use? Whered you get it from? And would I be able to pick up the hardener at any usual aut parts store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Murray's)? Thanks.

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Old 01-14-2004, 06:03 PM   #13
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Re: Hey

Quote:
Originally posted by 91AccordSE
What kind of bondo did you use? Whered you get it from? And would I be able to pick up the hardener at any usual aut parts store (AutoZone, Pep Boys, Murray's)? Thanks.
i used the lightweight bondo... in the blue can... as pictured in the first post. the hardener comes with the bondo.

and you can puchase the product at any of those places you listed.
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Old 01-15-2004, 12:29 AM   #14
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great diy the final product came out great. has the spray paint started to fade at all
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Old 01-15-2004, 09:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by 92accordDx
great diy the final product came out great. has the spray paint started to fade at all
nope, not that i've noticed.

just keep in mind guys that this is not the usual way to go about removing rust. the body shop usually cuts out that piece of bad metal, and welds in a new one... then resprays it all with the color of your paint and clearcoats it. this is just a good way to fix it for only a fraction of the cost that you'd be paying at the body shop. it's not going to be a 'perfect' fix!

just MAKE SURE that you spray on lots of primer. for awhile, before i sprayed on the final duplicolor paint, i drove around w/ just the primer. and... i started to see little rust spots re-forming. this was because i went light on the primer coats the first time around - and water got to the metal that was exposed around the bondo job. so i had to sand down the little rust spots (220/320 grit), clean up the area, and re-spray a few more coats.
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Old 01-18-2004, 02:06 AM   #16
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wow excellent write up. I wish i had documented my rust repair adventure on my wagon. I had large holes like the one of your drivers side on both sides that included the part where the bumper mounts too. I just wanted to add that the reason your primered panel started rusting is that primer is not waterproof. it may seem like it is but in reality it is not. For those who are mor adventurous you can rebuild the missing parts of metal with aluminum mesh and fiberglass mat and resin like i did. i redid the whole wheel arch on my passenger side that way. A lot of work!!!! But like i said, excellent write up accordtunerx!!!!!
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Old 01-20-2004, 01:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by accord driver
I just wanted to add that the reason your primered panel started rusting is that primer is not waterproof. it may seem like it is but in reality it is not.
actually, my primer seems to be waterproof. i just didn't spray enough of it on the first time around - and the bare metal got exposed to the rainwater and stuff. but now - i'm actually still rolling around with ONLY primer on the driver side. it's been 3 months, and it hasn't rusted since i've sprayed more coats on.
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Old 01-21-2004, 01:48 PM   #18
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Bondo question..

Just picked up some bondo and some spray paint today for doin my grill (similar to whats in the DIY section). And I was just wondering, any special instructions on how to apply the bondo? How much hardener for how much bondo? How long till it dries so I can begin priming and painting? Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:07 PM   #19
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Re: Bondo question..

Quote:
Originally posted by 91AccordSE
How much hardener for how much bondo? How long till it dries so I can begin priming and painting?
should say it on the can, ive also seen rubber bondo spreaders, and they colored the rubber the same color the bondo should be once u add enough hardener. thats what im gettin when i do my rust... heh

steve, instead of normal bondo, what about that tigerhair stuff, the kind w/ fiberglass strands in it? u think thatll be stiffer, or would it not make much of a difference?

im counting down the days till spring when ill be able to do this DIY... i wanted to go out to wash off the caked on salt, but my host reel was frozen and it broke off, and my local carwash is closed (broken), its torture seeing layers of salt on my already bad rust
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:58 PM   #20
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Re: Re: Bondo question..

Quote:
Originally posted by cpmike
steve, instead of normal bondo, what about that tigerhair stuff, the kind w/ fiberglass strands in it? u think thatll be stiffer, or would it not make much of a difference?
Im not Steve but I can answer this...the tigerhair will be a bit more flexible than the bondo when completly hardened. Also the bondo will crack if applied thick (more than 1/4") whereas you can build up the fiberglass thicker without it cracking. I would recommend using the kittyhair-tigerhair to fill the hole, then skim over the top of it with bondo to fill all the pores in the fiberglass, and also to smooth it out.
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