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    ENG: Compression Test

    How to do a Compression Test



    A compression test is an easy way to determine the internal health of your engine. You can pay a dealership $50 to do it for you, or you can do it yourself in about 10-15 minutes. Here's how...

    You can get a compression tester for between $15 and $50 almost anywhere you can get auto supplies, including Auto Zone, Pep Boys, and even Wal-Mart. You don't need a particularly good or expensive one just to make sure you're in specification.

    Matco tools, model # CT166K


    In case any of the plugs are fouled. The NGK are the most frequently recommended plugs on the Honda motors, if you're not replacing your plugs, and even if you are, you might as well make sure they're properly gapped.

    Instructions:

    1. Before you begin, make sure the battery is fully charged and engine is up to normal operating temperature.

    2. Unplug Electrical Fuel Injector connections individually



    3. Unplug the coil connector, it’s on the left side of the engine, Connected to the Distributor



    4. Remove all 4 plugs and examine them carefully for signs of a problem. If your valve seals are bad in any cylinder, the plug will be fouled to some degree. Signs of oil on the plugs could indicate a ring problem



    5. Screw the compression gauge into the spark plug hole



    6. Open the throttle plate, and keep it at WOT (wide open throttle) for as long as you’re cranking.

    7. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and hold it there for a count of five revolutions (do not turn the key on-and-off four times). On each rotation, the gauge needle will jump slightly less than the previous

    Note: If your battery is weak, the engine will turn over slower and give you lower readings. Recharge the battery and redo the test

    8. The last number the gauge jumps to is the compression for that cylinder.



    Note: For photography and freezing cold reasons I only Cranked the engine 2 times, reason for the 99.8 PSI reading

    9. Repeat for each cylinder.


    Standard PSI:
    nominal 178 psi
    minimal 135 psi
    max variation 28 psi

    Diagnose:

    When doing the tests make note of the readings for each cylinder, all the readings should be in a range of %10 +- any reading below indicates a possible leak, if so next steps would be a wet compression test and leak down test
    Last edited by Legacy Accord; 01-05-2009, 04:50 PM.

    #2
    Nice write-up. You held the gas pedal at WOT or held the switch under the hood? Also, I believe you can pull the fuse for the fuel instead of disconnecting the plugs on each injector.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by SteveB
      Great write up...until you got here!

      My Shop key is not not working peoperly, If some one can Message me the correct # I will be happy to correct it

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by i97supratti
        Nice write-up. You held the gas pedal at WOT or held the switch under the hood? Also, I believe you can pull the fuse for the fuel instead of disconnecting the plugs on each injector.
        Does not matter and yes you can pull the fuse

        Comment


          #5
          nice work.

          My Old Ride Thread

          Comment


            #6
            This DIY will become very useful, thanks man.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by sublime
              This DIY will become very useful, thanks man.

              I hope it does

              Comment


                #8
                mind if i ask what it means to keep it at WOT? what am i doing to accomplish this? sorry ima noob,but nice write up.

                Comment


                  #9
                  WOT = Wide open throttle.
                  '93 Bordeaux Red Pearl LX 5MT

                  Prev CBs:
                  -'93 BRP LX 4AT
                  -'92 AGP LX 5MT
                  -'93 AGP EX 4AT
                  10yrs after my first cb, I'm still driving one!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Btw, to answer a previous question, IMO it's easier to pull the ECU fuse...but that's just me personally.
                    2DAO (2 Door Accord Owner)
                    JDM H22 DOHC 200/161 2.2L
                    My members ride: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=20385

                    Comment


                      #11
                      whats it mean.."keep WOT as long as ur cranking"?how u do that?


                      MY 1n2 CB7

                      Comment


                        #12
                        press foot to floor...turn key.

                        Or just do it with 2 people since that will be easiest.
                        No longer working on the cb. To much time and money has been put into it. Check my for sale thread where the whole car will be parted out.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Legacy Accord
                          7. Turn the ignition to the ON position, and hold it there for a count of five revolutions (do not turn the key on-and-off four times). On each rotation, the gauge needle will jump slightly less than the previous

                          Note: If your battery is weak, the engine will turn over slower and give you lower readings. Recharge the battery and redo the test

                          8. The last number the gauge jumps to is the compression for that cylinder.



                          Note: For photography and freezing cold reasons I only Cranked the engine 2 times, reason for the 99.8 PSI reading

                          9. Repeat for each cylinder.


                          Standard PSI:
                          nominal 178 psi
                          minimal 135 psi
                          max variation 28 psi

                          Diagnose:

                          When doing the tests make note of the readings for each cylinder, all the readings should be in a range of 10 +- any reading below indicates a possible leak, if so next steps would be a wet compression test and leak down test
                          A very nice write-up. Just a few questions. Is another person needed to watch the compression gauge when I crank it? Or can I just crank it for 5 or 6 revolutions, get out of the car, and whatever the gauge shows assume that is my compression for that cylinder? (Just confused about step # 8)

                          Someone posted that it was okay if the compression was within 10% of each cylinder. Is that wrong and instead it should be within 10 PSI of each other?

                          Thanks.
                          1992 Accord Coupe 5-Speed

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