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Old 05-11-2006, 09:48 PM   #1
Spartan1987
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EXT: Inexpensive Detailing

My paint was badly neglected for probably 8 years.
I did some reading on here, and talked with a few people around town and came up with my own solution for an inexpensive way to get your cars color and shine back without repainting.
I am not responsible for inappropriate use and/or handling of listed chemicals, and advise all readers to do their own research before deciding on products to use. everyone has a different opinion and they are entitled to it.
That said, here's the list.

Items needed:
70-90% rubbing alcohol ($2 for a big bottle at Wal-mart, I love this stuff for cleaning.)

Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound

Mothers Clay bar kit

I like Nufinish car polish b/c it's $5.63 a bottle and gives a terrific seal and shine for the money, otherwise Carnauba is the best.

Microfiber cloths (2 for $1 at Wal-mart, get 10, believe me you will use them.)

*Optional*
10" buffer with applicator and polishing pads.
scratch remover of some type
music to listen to, b/c it takes time. Crank that system gangster

It is best to find a covered place such as a car wash to do this b/c your car will need to be cleaned VERY well beforehand. Also it is always best to detailing out from under the sun.

1.) After Washing your car thoroughly, prep the entire surface with the rubbing alcohol (you would be amazed at how much crap the wash didn't get.)

2.) After that, use the rubbing compound on a small area at a time with an applicator pad or a rag (i.e. the hood, the quarterpanel, the door etc.)
and use the buffer to work it into the paint, or work it in by hand.

3.) Again use the rubbing alcohol to aid in removal of the rubbing compound so that it comes off the surface, but remains in the paint and clear coat.

4.) After using the rubbing compound, get the clay bar kit out. Work again in small areas with the detailing spray and clay. you will begin to see and feel the smoothness come back after you do this; then use the Carnauba cleaner wax to help remove oxidation and impurities in the paint.

5.) Use the Nufinish in small areas again, letting it dry somewhat and then wiping it off with a separate rag.
the difference is amazing, I would reapply Nufinish after 30 days just to get twice the shine.

ALWAYS FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PACKAGES!!!
they will keep you from doing something stupid. (ask me how I know.)

thanks to all members and random dudes I asked around town for their input and inciting me to do this. I honestly believe I saved myself from a paint job at least until I get my H22...

Hope this helps everyone. Feel free to leave comments, but please, no flaming...
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:51 PM   #2
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I will get pics of me doing this when I clean my car again.
I actually did it today, but I didn't think to document it so I just tried to detail as much as possible.
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:24 PM   #3
Davids92Accord
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i would try that but i dont think that it would help me out cause my whole trunk is fading away and it looks purple same thing with my mirrors and also one side of my car shines more than the other side because of the accidend it was in but good job for letting everyone know what to do
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:35 PM   #4
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Wait a min, when you use the Acohol for the 2nd time won't it just take all the rubbing compound off? Am I missing something?
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Old 05-12-2006, 08:50 AM   #5
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No actually.
I found that it removed the rubbing compound on the surface, but what I wanted was to fill in the cracks in the clear coat.
it left the compound in the cracks and filled it in.
the second time I applied nufinish i didn't need to prep a whole lot with the alcohol, only when I found bird shit or something...
This is just to prep it to begin with.
Thanks for the feedback
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:23 PM   #6
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eh...
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Old 05-12-2006, 03:53 PM   #7
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let's see what typeG has to say about this
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maple50175
let's see what typeG has to say about this
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Old 05-12-2006, 04:30 PM   #9
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I read many of the posts that TypeG wrote, and learned a lot.
I got the idea for the rubbing compound and alcohol from a guy that did a lot of body work and detailing.
I tried it and it seemed to work fine.
I got the idea for the clay bar kit from TypeG.
He's the man, I just wanted to share what I do.
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Old 05-12-2006, 06:23 PM   #10
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from my point of view the rubbing alchohol would be useless considering you're already using the clay bar which is basically removing the contaminants. the only time i really use the rubbing alchohol is when there is no need to clay bar since the paint is already clean and i want to strip the old wax/sealants off and start fresh.

as far as your step i would do the following instead:
clay bar then compund but thats just my $.02
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Old 05-12-2006, 06:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan1987
1.) After Washing your car thoroughly, prep the entire surface with the rubbing alcohol (you would be amazed at how much crap the wash didn't get.)
although i can't say if rubbing alcohol will do anything bad to paint, i wouldn't put it on mine for sure. it may fade or dry it out, like if you wash your hands to much, how the soap washes away the oils leaving them dry, but comparing skin and paint are like comparing apples and oranges.

but if all it does is clean the paint, then it's a wasted step, as the clay bar does all of that.

and if you used rubbing compound, the clay and rubbing alcohol is a wasted step, as polishing removes the top layer of paint taking what ever dirt and grime that is embeded in it away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan1987
2.) After that, use the rubbing compound on a small area at a time with an applicator pad or a rag (i.e. the hood, the quarterpanel, the door etc.)
and use the buffer to work it into the paint, or work it in by hand.
while rubbing compound would likely improve the shine of the paint, it has a heavy cut of abrasives and should be followed by a polishing compound for best results.......without it the paint would be shiny, but have a slight mared, hazy look to it......................i personally don't see much use for rubbing compound unless you have wet sanded..... and then i would only apply it by hand. it's pretty agressive and can melt through a paint job like butter using a buffer.


but if it works for you, cool. i'll stick to the basic clay, polish, seal, and wax. later.
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:06 PM   #12
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I appreciate the feedback man.
I have no experience with the polishing compound, so maybe i'll try next time.
the alcohol didn't remove the rubbing compound that I had worked into the cracks in my clear for whatever reason, and the clay bar AFTER i used the rubbing compound made it a whole lot smoother.
I agree with your method (I did read a post by you for detailing.) because the result is terrific.
Being somewhat on a budget though I mixed up a few ideas I got on here and from others.
I like the result I got and that's really all that matters, if the person doing it likes it. By no means do I mean to say this is the only way to detail, just mine.
thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
although i can't say if rubbing alcohol will do anything bad to paint, i wouldn't put it on mine for sure. it may fade or dry it out, like if you wash your hands to much, how the soap washes away the oils leaving them dry, but comparing skin and paint are like comparing apples and oranges.

but if all it does is clean the paint, then it's a wasted step, as the clay bar does all of that.

and if you used rubbing compound, the clay and rubbing alcohol is a wasted step, as polishing removes the top layer of paint taking what ever dirt and grime that is embeded in it away.

while rubbing compound would likely improve the shine of the paint, it has a heavy cut of abrasives and should be followed by a polishing compound for best results.......without it the paint would be shiny, but have a slight mared, hazy look to it......................i personally don't see much use for rubbing compound unless you have wet sanded..... and then i would only apply it by hand. it's pretty agressive and can melt through a paint job like butter using a buffer.


but if it works for you, cool. i'll stick to the basic clay, polish, seal, and wax. later.
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Old 05-12-2006, 10:10 PM   #13
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Alcohol was just to get any dirt, grime, etc. that car wash might not be strong enough to remove. (there are really cheap car washes that people use b/c of money issues. I liked using it b/c that is the case with me.)
And I used the compound first b/c it filled in the cracks in my clear that were numerous. As previously mentioned, the clay bar didn't remove the rubbing compound for whatever reason.
I used it with a buffer b/c a professional detailer told me it would fill it in and make it smoother, which is probably why it didn't get removed.
If you do it that way though let see the results.
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by edlab03
from my point of view the rubbing alchohol would be useless considering you're already using the clay bar which is basically removing the contaminants. the only time i really use the rubbing alchohol is when there is no need to clay bar since the paint is already clean and i want to strip the old wax/sealants off and start fresh.

as far as your step i would do the following instead:
clay bar then compund but thats just my $.02
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Old 05-13-2006, 09:56 AM   #14
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no problem.

i was simply stating my opinion on the subject.

my personal detailing routine is as follows:

1. wash
2. clay bar (usually clay magic clay & lube)
3. polish (poorboys ssr2.5)
4. polish (poorboys ssr1 only if micromarring is still visible)
5. paint cleaning (Klasse All In One)
6. sealant (either poorboys ex-p or klasse sg, depending which car im puting it on. layered 3x-4x in a weeks time. )
7. wax (either poorboys natty's blue or meguiar's #26)

all applied by a pc 7424 (random orbital buffer)

again this is just my opinion/personal routine.
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Old 05-13-2006, 10:56 AM   #15
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Nice. I will be doing something like that soon to get the best results.
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