Decided to write this up because I was bored and my valves were a lil bit too loud.
I know there already is a thread for SOHC engines here:
http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.p...lve+adjustment
Although this diy is for a DOHC, the procedure is pretty much the same.
first off, the tools you will need:
jack
flathead screwdriver
12mm wrench
10mm socket
ratchet for the socket
feeler gauge
long ass extension(not in pic)
19mm socket for crank pulley(not in pic)
I did this valve lash adjustement on an F22B DOHC engine, you will need to find your own specs if you're doing it on a different one.
F22B DOHC and H23 specs:
Intake: 0.07mm-0.11mm(.003"-.004")
Exhaust: 0.15mm-0.19mm(.006"-.007")
1. Start by taking off your valve cover. there are 5 nuts holding it down, plus any other things like grounds and what not.
2.Lift the driver side of your car with the jack. then, turn the wheel all the way to the LEFT. Now you have room get your extension/19mm socket/ratchet in and turn the crank pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!!
turn it until your #1 cylinder(closest to timing belt) is at TDC. In other words, the arrow on your cam gear will be pointing up.
3. Now that #1 is at TDC, get your 12mm wrench and loosen the nut.
Get your screw driver and feeler gauge and feel for a slight drag. Not tight, not completely loose, but enough to where you can feel it touching bot sides. use the screwdriver to adjust the lash.
Once you have it at your desired setting, hold the screwdriver STILL and IN PLACE and tighten the nut. Re-check your lash because you screw could have moved.
do this to the both exhaust and intake. they have 2 valves each.
4. after you're done with #1, go back to your crank pulley and turn it enough to where the next "spoke" on the cam gear is pointing up. this will be TDC for #3.
repeat step 3 as needed. after you're done with this one, the next one is #4, then #2(firing order=1-3-4-2).
after you're done, go ahead and put your valve cover on. I tighten mine just enough to where i dont actually need to hold my breathe or need extra force to tighten it. (i.e. hand tight).
put your car back down, and you're set. it should be quieter now.
it is the same procedure for vtec engine, except they need a differnt tool to tighten/loosen the nut that holds the screw.
I think H22's have a 10mm nut instead of the 12mm like mine did.
either tool will do:
All you will need is a pair of Vise-grips, a 10mm deep well socket, and a flat head screwdriver that will fit through the hole of the socket.
Angle the vice grips at apx. 80 degrees when you clamp it to the 10mm socket. Stick the screw driver through the socket and there you go. You just scarred up a perfectly good socket but saved $40.
or
take a 10mm socket and hammer it into the 5/8" wrench (it will be a tight but not too tight fit) will work perfectly, then slide the screw driver in through the hole in the socket.
H22 valve lash specs:
.006-.007" on the intake
.007-.008" on the exhaust
I know there already is a thread for SOHC engines here:
http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.p...lve+adjustment
Although this diy is for a DOHC, the procedure is pretty much the same.
first off, the tools you will need:
jack
flathead screwdriver
12mm wrench
10mm socket
ratchet for the socket
feeler gauge
long ass extension(not in pic)
19mm socket for crank pulley(not in pic)
I did this valve lash adjustement on an F22B DOHC engine, you will need to find your own specs if you're doing it on a different one.
F22B DOHC and H23 specs:
Intake: 0.07mm-0.11mm(.003"-.004")
Exhaust: 0.15mm-0.19mm(.006"-.007")
1. Start by taking off your valve cover. there are 5 nuts holding it down, plus any other things like grounds and what not.
2.Lift the driver side of your car with the jack. then, turn the wheel all the way to the LEFT. Now you have room get your extension/19mm socket/ratchet in and turn the crank pulley COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!!
turn it until your #1 cylinder(closest to timing belt) is at TDC. In other words, the arrow on your cam gear will be pointing up.
3. Now that #1 is at TDC, get your 12mm wrench and loosen the nut.
Get your screw driver and feeler gauge and feel for a slight drag. Not tight, not completely loose, but enough to where you can feel it touching bot sides. use the screwdriver to adjust the lash.
Once you have it at your desired setting, hold the screwdriver STILL and IN PLACE and tighten the nut. Re-check your lash because you screw could have moved.
do this to the both exhaust and intake. they have 2 valves each.
4. after you're done with #1, go back to your crank pulley and turn it enough to where the next "spoke" on the cam gear is pointing up. this will be TDC for #3.
repeat step 3 as needed. after you're done with this one, the next one is #4, then #2(firing order=1-3-4-2).
after you're done, go ahead and put your valve cover on. I tighten mine just enough to where i dont actually need to hold my breathe or need extra force to tighten it. (i.e. hand tight).
put your car back down, and you're set. it should be quieter now.
it is the same procedure for vtec engine, except they need a differnt tool to tighten/loosen the nut that holds the screw.
I think H22's have a 10mm nut instead of the 12mm like mine did.
either tool will do:
All you will need is a pair of Vise-grips, a 10mm deep well socket, and a flat head screwdriver that will fit through the hole of the socket.
Angle the vice grips at apx. 80 degrees when you clamp it to the 10mm socket. Stick the screw driver through the socket and there you go. You just scarred up a perfectly good socket but saved $40.
or
take a 10mm socket and hammer it into the 5/8" wrench (it will be a tight but not too tight fit) will work perfectly, then slide the screw driver in through the hole in the socket.
H22 valve lash specs:
.006-.007" on the intake
.007-.008" on the exhaust
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