If you have a brake problem please do the following things in this order to check.
If you have no pedal feel:
1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder.
-If it is low move on to number 1b.
-If it is fine/full move on to number 2.
1b. Have someone pump the brakes and you check all around for any fluid coming out for leaks.
-If you have a leak, replace the part of the hardline, or softline that it is leaking from.
-If there are no visable leaks, but low fluid, add more fluid and check the brakes then.
2. At this point there is probably only one thing wrong; the master cylinder has an internal leak in the seals. Fix: Replace master cylinder. Master cylinders usually only have a life expectancy of 10 years or so. You made it longer so consider yourself lucky.
If the pedal is very hard to press:
1. Check the vacuum lines leading to the brake booster (big black thing behind the master cylinder) for leaks/connection.
-If they are all connected and not leaking (car must be on to figure this out) move on to 1b.
-If they are not connected/have a hole, replace and repeat if problem persists.
1b. Take the check valve off and check that it is working properly. The check valve is that grey plastic thing that is on the line leading from the plenum to the brake booster.
-If it does not let air in one way, and not the other replace and repeat diagnosis if problem persists.
-If it is working properly (air is able to go through it towards the intake manifold, and not back toward the booster) then move on to step 2.
2. At this point your brake booster is probably dying on you, replace it.
This pretty much covers about all that could possibly go wrong with your brakes, provided you do not have ABS, which I do not.
That is all I could think of in this brake diagnosis. If anything is just plain wrong, just post "Hey don't listen to that dumbass"
If you have no pedal feel:
1. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder.
-If it is low move on to number 1b.
-If it is fine/full move on to number 2.
1b. Have someone pump the brakes and you check all around for any fluid coming out for leaks.
-If you have a leak, replace the part of the hardline, or softline that it is leaking from.
-If there are no visable leaks, but low fluid, add more fluid and check the brakes then.
2. At this point there is probably only one thing wrong; the master cylinder has an internal leak in the seals. Fix: Replace master cylinder. Master cylinders usually only have a life expectancy of 10 years or so. You made it longer so consider yourself lucky.
If the pedal is very hard to press:
1. Check the vacuum lines leading to the brake booster (big black thing behind the master cylinder) for leaks/connection.
-If they are all connected and not leaking (car must be on to figure this out) move on to 1b.
-If they are not connected/have a hole, replace and repeat if problem persists.
1b. Take the check valve off and check that it is working properly. The check valve is that grey plastic thing that is on the line leading from the plenum to the brake booster.
-If it does not let air in one way, and not the other replace and repeat diagnosis if problem persists.
-If it is working properly (air is able to go through it towards the intake manifold, and not back toward the booster) then move on to step 2.
2. At this point your brake booster is probably dying on you, replace it.
This pretty much covers about all that could possibly go wrong with your brakes, provided you do not have ABS, which I do not.
That is all I could think of in this brake diagnosis. If anything is just plain wrong, just post "Hey don't listen to that dumbass"
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