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SUSP: Rear Lower Strut Mount Bushing removal

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    #16
    you need to get something that lines up with the exact size of the old bushing so if you use one of those pullers it catches the lip the whole way around to push it out... using just one of those pictured the black center push would go straight through the bushing.

    also, if you get something to fit, the problem is that the old bushing is dry and probably seized into the knuckle and itll be hard to push out. squishing the outer ring with the chisel to make room around it makes it SOOO easy to pull out.


    - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
    - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
    - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
    - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
    - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
    Current cars:
    - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
    - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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      #17
      ok thanks,i will pick up one of the pullers just in case since i need one anyway, if it doesnt work than i will try your method. Thanks

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        #18
        A parts update

        NAPA no longer shows the bushing. I also tried Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts.

        I ended up ordering one from the local dealer for (ouch!) $23.04 + tax.

        The Honda part # is: 52622-SM4-003.

        For those already getting something from Majestic, this is their product number: 97854, BUSH, RR. (LOWER), $13.02

        But before you think that's a better deal don't forget Majestic charges a "handling fee" which, on top of shipping ...

        Incidentally, I did some sample searches for different years and models and this is the same bushing for all 90-93 coupes and sedans I believe. Wagons appear to need Majestic product 102565; don't know the Honda part #.

        At any rate, when asking for the bushing make sure you ask for "knuckle" and not lower control arm bushing, or at least describe where it goes (lower strut bushing, even though it doesn't go inside the strut itself).
        >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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          #19
          ok i jus first wanted to say thanx me and mrx did this to my car last weekend and this helped out alot made a 187 dollar job drop down to a 30 dollar job thats including the part =) ok now time for the bitchin =) u said u tapped that Bushing in. MRX and I had to bang the chit out of it get it in. We lubed it to hell and back and that bish would just not slid in. We finally got it in about 10-20mins of hammering, massagin and a bunch of other things..ok im done bishin but very nice write up thanx cpmike =)
          Last edited by Grumpys93; 07-24-2015, 11:48 PM.
          ~Nick~
          FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
          MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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            #20
            im really happy this is coming in handy for some of you


            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
            Current cars:
            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

            Comment


              #21
              Yes, [mike], this thread was a very helpful factor in giving me the "I can do it" I needed. That, and having to cut off the old strut with an angle grinder pretty much ensured I had to do the rest at home!

              Yeah, I got mine in too. But by then I had the whole knuckle in a bench vise and still had to hammer it in --- I even had the bushing in the freezer overnight. The key is to get it started straight (obviously) first. I just can't fathom how you guys did it on the car with like a foot off the floor.

              BTW removing the knuckle was by far the easiest part of doing the whole rear-end. I even pulled the hub off, thanks to Mr. Big Ass Pipe for leverage. Total cake. I had tried drilling the bushing to weaken it but it just mocked me. I figured I was wasting my time and (for me) I was right about that because even on the vise it still took another afternoon to whack it out with the chisel and more drilling --- I just don't know that I would have had the leverage down under the car to do all that shit without spending a week.

              I'll also mention I bought an arbor press but was unable to make use of it for this job; the knuckle was just too awkward to hold near it but with two more people it might have been different.
              >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

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                #22
                having just re-read it, i never mentioned it in this guide, but if i remember correctly, one side of the hole in the rear knuckle is lipped, so the bushing only slides in easily from one direction. or maybe its because i used a file to smooth down the edges of the one side made it go in easily, but either way i had no problem putting it back in whatsoever... literally slid right in...

                btw the rear discs from the car i made this DIY with are now installed on Coco's car and hes been driving on them and hasnt had any issues. almost 2 years later and still holding up fine, id say this DIY is pretty safe to do.


                - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                Current cars:
                - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

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                  #23
                  same thing happened to me on both side. Had to grind of both ends of the bolt . drill out the bushing. and replace it.. Getting it back in was the hardest

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                    #24
                    That same thing happened 2 me 2 the bastard, I was feelin cheap so I got a lil piece of rubber hose and stuck it in the bolt and bam! theres my bushing.. Besides im bout 2 do a rear disc conversion soon n e wayz...


                    "Cocaine's a hellava drug"

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                      #25
                      Someone suggested that I put this info on this here thread, and it looks like the right place to me. I hope this is cool by you, Mike....I use a propane bottle-top torch to burn out most rubber bushings (even though I have a press). After this removes the rubber, put the part in a vise and use a fine toothed hacksaw blade to cut a slit across the outer metal ring and relieve it's pressure fit. Watch your angle (stay flat) with the blade and don't cut into the arm any more than you can help. Energy Suspension suggests this technique when awkward shapes prevent the use of a press. I bought an entire bushing kit from Prothane when I saw that I needed this lower shock bushing for my '92. I usually get ES, but their kit seemed incomplete, so I got the $200 Prothane kit "complete" with rear control arm bushings. Okay, so I go through the set and they only make the lower shock bushings for the front!! Nobody I could find even makes a Poly replacement for this. Feeling like I just ate a face full of crap, I sat down and looked at what I had, then decided to make this work regardless. What I ended up doing was using a pair of rear control/trailing arm bushings to make a bushing setup for the lower shock. Here are the before and after pics of the bushing, and a picture of the parts used.

                      The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                      After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                      Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                      PM me and get it done right!

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                        #26
                        Using the outer sleeve for the control arm leaves a tiny ~1mm gap. I scratched up the inside of the hole and the outside of the sleeve, cleaned them with acetone and then got out the old (I know this sounds shady) JB Weld, applying liberally to avoid air pockets and allowing me to build up more support than the stock assembly. If the gap were bigger, I wouldn't use this technique, but I didn't see tolerance problems here. The replacement sleeve is exactly the right size to fit the strut properly and doesn't need any modification. And the JB also mentioned press-fit bushings as an application on the package.

                        The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                        After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                        Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                        PM me and get it done right!

                        Comment


                          #27
                          The old and new inner sleeve have different size holes, so in order to use the stock bolt, I had to reuse the old one. Okay, but the stock one has a huge ball in it and won't fit, so I had to grind it to a cylinder shape on a bench grinder. With that work done and about a day of curing time just to be safe, everything works wonderfully. I did this months ago and I drive hard everywhere. The cold weld still looks just as strong as the metal and I haven't noticed any negative effects on handling by removing the ball-sleeve. By the way, I have an EX with rear disc, and am not sure if this applies to the drum setup or not.

                          The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
                          After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
                          Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
                          PM me and get it done right!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            updated my first post with some part numbers


                            - 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
                            - 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
                            - 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
                            - 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
                            - 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
                            Current cars:
                            - 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
                            - 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Have to do the same thing today, so this will deff come in handy

                              My Cb bad, Cb bright and the cops can kiss my Cb lights - I’m gone!
                              Frost White Member 13
                              My Ride
                              "Girls are like a new car... lease w/ option to buy"

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                                #30
                                does anybody know what size bolt is used for the rear shocks?

                                I dont wanna try to get it off at a junkyard bc the chances of the bolt being stuck or broken seems to be really high.

                                ----------------My 92 Honda Accord LX---------------------- My 97 Nissan 240sx LE----

                                NE GUYS, Buy the last of my accord parts

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