I've seen many threads these days about "I've got oil all over my #blah spark plug, and the tube is full of oil.". Here's how to take care of it. It should take an hour or two, even with minimal engine experience. This is mostly stolen out of a Hanyne's 90-93 Accord (F22) manual.
You'll need:
- in-lb torque wrench
- ft-lb torque wrench
- rubber hammer
- sockets/ratchet
- screwdriver
- blue high-temp RTV sealant or HondaBond
- plug tube seals, lower plug tube seals, valve cover gasket (AutoZone sells a set by FelPro for $16 that includes all the gaskets/seals you'll need)
- 4 new spark plugs (replace distributor cap/rotor and spark plug wires at your discretion)
Note: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. To prevent the opposite end (transaxle end) of the camshaft from popping up (due to timing belt tension) after the assembly is removed, have another able body hold the opposite end of the camshaft down, then reinstall the bearing cap on that end to hold it in place until reassembly (if timing belt remains installed, but is easiest while changing timing belt when there no tension on the cam gear).
Step 1: Remove the valve cover
1- Remove spark plugs.
2- Remove the distributor cap and wires. Be sure to mark which wire goes where for correct intallation.
3- Mark and detach any hoses or wires from the throttle body or valve cover that will interfere with the removal of the valve cover.
4- Wipe off the valve cover the prevent dirt and debris from falling onto the exposed cylinder head or camshaft/valve train assembly.
5- Remove the valve cover (acorn) nuts.
6- Carefully lift off the valve cover and gasket. If the gasket is stuck to the cylinder head, tap it with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Do not pry between the cover and cylinder head or you'll damage the gasket mating surfaces.
Step 2: Position number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC)
1- Remove the timing mark inspection plug.
2- Place the number one piston (closest to the drivebelt end of the engine) at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
To do so, rotate the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise until the timing pointer on the block lines up with the TDC mark on the flywheel. The distributor rotor should be pointing toward the number one spark plug wire terminal on the distributor cap. If it isn't, rotate the engine one complete turn and realign the marks.
Step 3: Rocker arm removal and seal replacement
1- Have an assistant hold down the transaxle end of the camshaft, then loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at at a time. Starting with the #3 cylinder loosen the two exhaust side camshaft bearing cap bolts. Loosen the bolt on the intake side of the assembly behind the spark plug tube. Repeat for #2 cylinder, #4, #1, and then loosen the cam bearing caps at the end #1 cylinder end of the head behind the cam gear. Finally loosen the 2 bolts at the #4 end that are closest to the distributor. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS COMPLETELY FROM ROCKER ASSEMBLY.
2- Lift entire assembly off in one piece. If timing belt is in place, see note above.
3. Lower tube seals will be attached/stuck to the bottom of the rocker assembly. Remove pieces of lower plug tube seals (will probably be in severa pieces). Be sure to remove all remnants of old tube seals from rocker assembly.
4- Replace tube seals.
STEP 4: Rocker arm assembly reassembly
1- Replace rocker assembly.
2- In the reverse order of loosening, tighten rocker assembly bolts. The smaller 6.0 x 1.0 mm bolts need to be torqued to 108 in-lbs, and the larger 8.0 x 1.25mm bolts to 16 ft-lbs.
STEP 5: Adjust valves
1- With the engine still at TDC, the #1 cylinder valve adjustment can bve checked and adjusted. Start with the intake valve clearance. Insert a 0.010-in feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm. Withdraw it, and you should feel a slight drag. If there's no drag or a heavy drag, loosen the adjuster nut and back off the adjuster screw. Carefully tighten the adjuster screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it.
2- Hold the adjuster screw with a screwdriver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed. Repeat the procedure in this tep and the previous step on theother intake valve, then the two exhaust valves. For the exhaust valves, use a 0.012-in feeler gauge.
3- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise (the cam pulley will turn 90-degrees) until the #3 cylinder is at TDC. With the #3 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed at the exhaust side (nine O'clock position) and the distributor rotor should point at the #3 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #3 cylinder valves.
4- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise until the #4 cylinder is at TDC. With the #4 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed straight down, and the distributor rotor should point at the #4 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #4 cylinder valves.
5- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise to bring the #2 cylinder to TDC. With the #2 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed to the intake side (three O'clock position), and the distributor rotor should point at the #2 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #2 cylinder valves.
STEP 6: Put it all back together
1- Replace upper plug seals.
2- Replace valve cover gasket, and use HondaBond or high-temp blue RTV sealant to make sure there's no leaks. Let the RTV site for about 5 minutes to harden up before putting valve cover back on head. Torque the acorn nuts to 84 in-lbs. DO NOT overtighten these acorn nuts, as they are easy to split. If they break, you have a trip to the parts store in your immediate future in another vehicle.
3- Reconnect any hoses or wires from the throttle body or valve cover that previously disconnected.
4- Replace spark plugs with new NGK spark plugs (I've been using Autolite with no problems, however).
5- Reinstall distributor cap and plug wires.
I'm sure I've left some details out, but the bulk of the matter is here. I'm sure someone will chime in with something that I missed or overlooked, and I welcome all suggestions and/or corrections.
You'll need:
- in-lb torque wrench
- ft-lb torque wrench
- rubber hammer
- sockets/ratchet
- screwdriver
- blue high-temp RTV sealant or HondaBond
- plug tube seals, lower plug tube seals, valve cover gasket (AutoZone sells a set by FelPro for $16 that includes all the gaskets/seals you'll need)
- 4 new spark plugs (replace distributor cap/rotor and spark plug wires at your discretion)
Note: The camshaft bearing caps are removed together with the rocker arm assembly. To prevent the opposite end (transaxle end) of the camshaft from popping up (due to timing belt tension) after the assembly is removed, have another able body hold the opposite end of the camshaft down, then reinstall the bearing cap on that end to hold it in place until reassembly (if timing belt remains installed, but is easiest while changing timing belt when there no tension on the cam gear).
Step 1: Remove the valve cover
1- Remove spark plugs.
2- Remove the distributor cap and wires. Be sure to mark which wire goes where for correct intallation.
3- Mark and detach any hoses or wires from the throttle body or valve cover that will interfere with the removal of the valve cover.
4- Wipe off the valve cover the prevent dirt and debris from falling onto the exposed cylinder head or camshaft/valve train assembly.
5- Remove the valve cover (acorn) nuts.
6- Carefully lift off the valve cover and gasket. If the gasket is stuck to the cylinder head, tap it with a rubber mallet to break the seal. Do not pry between the cover and cylinder head or you'll damage the gasket mating surfaces.
Step 2: Position number one piston at Top Dead Center (TDC)
1- Remove the timing mark inspection plug.
2- Place the number one piston (closest to the drivebelt end of the engine) at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
To do so, rotate the crankshaft pulley counterclockwise until the timing pointer on the block lines up with the TDC mark on the flywheel. The distributor rotor should be pointing toward the number one spark plug wire terminal on the distributor cap. If it isn't, rotate the engine one complete turn and realign the marks.
Step 3: Rocker arm removal and seal replacement
1- Have an assistant hold down the transaxle end of the camshaft, then loosen the camshaft bearing cap bolts 1/4 turn at at a time. Starting with the #3 cylinder loosen the two exhaust side camshaft bearing cap bolts. Loosen the bolt on the intake side of the assembly behind the spark plug tube. Repeat for #2 cylinder, #4, #1, and then loosen the cam bearing caps at the end #1 cylinder end of the head behind the cam gear. Finally loosen the 2 bolts at the #4 end that are closest to the distributor. DO NOT REMOVE THE BOLTS COMPLETELY FROM ROCKER ASSEMBLY.
2- Lift entire assembly off in one piece. If timing belt is in place, see note above.
3. Lower tube seals will be attached/stuck to the bottom of the rocker assembly. Remove pieces of lower plug tube seals (will probably be in severa pieces). Be sure to remove all remnants of old tube seals from rocker assembly.
4- Replace tube seals.
STEP 4: Rocker arm assembly reassembly
1- Replace rocker assembly.
2- In the reverse order of loosening, tighten rocker assembly bolts. The smaller 6.0 x 1.0 mm bolts need to be torqued to 108 in-lbs, and the larger 8.0 x 1.25mm bolts to 16 ft-lbs.
STEP 5: Adjust valves
1- With the engine still at TDC, the #1 cylinder valve adjustment can bve checked and adjusted. Start with the intake valve clearance. Insert a 0.010-in feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm. Withdraw it, and you should feel a slight drag. If there's no drag or a heavy drag, loosen the adjuster nut and back off the adjuster screw. Carefully tighten the adjuster screw until you can feel a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it.
2- Hold the adjuster screw with a screwdriver (to keep it from turning) and tighten the locknut. Recheck the clearance to make sure it hasn't changed. Repeat the procedure in this tep and the previous step on theother intake valve, then the two exhaust valves. For the exhaust valves, use a 0.012-in feeler gauge.
3- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise (the cam pulley will turn 90-degrees) until the #3 cylinder is at TDC. With the #3 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed at the exhaust side (nine O'clock position) and the distributor rotor should point at the #3 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #3 cylinder valves.
4- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise until the #4 cylinder is at TDC. With the #4 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed straight down, and the distributor rotor should point at the #4 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #4 cylinder valves.
5- Rotate the crankshaft pulley 180-degrees counterclockwise to bring the #2 cylinder to TDC. With the #2 cylinder at TDC, the UP mark on the camshaft sprocket should be pointed to the intake side (three O'clock position), and the distributor rotor should point at the #2 spark plug wire terminal. Check and adjust the #2 cylinder valves.
STEP 6: Put it all back together
1- Replace upper plug seals.
2- Replace valve cover gasket, and use HondaBond or high-temp blue RTV sealant to make sure there's no leaks. Let the RTV site for about 5 minutes to harden up before putting valve cover back on head. Torque the acorn nuts to 84 in-lbs. DO NOT overtighten these acorn nuts, as they are easy to split. If they break, you have a trip to the parts store in your immediate future in another vehicle.
3- Reconnect any hoses or wires from the throttle body or valve cover that previously disconnected.
4- Replace spark plugs with new NGK spark plugs (I've been using Autolite with no problems, however).
5- Reinstall distributor cap and plug wires.
I'm sure I've left some details out, but the bulk of the matter is here. I'm sure someone will chime in with something that I missed or overlooked, and I welcome all suggestions and/or corrections.
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