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H311RA151N : 1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

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    Just getting back. Sorry guys. Life is nuts.

    Anyhow, the W4A33 trans bit the dust. Torque converter locks when the fluid gets warm. So I might have toasted the torque converter. However, I pulled the transmission pan and there are pieces of a steel (if you've ever seen a wet clutch before or a kolene steel) in the pan folded in half.

    I replaced the end clutch (4th gear) a week prior as it was slow to engage or would flair every once in a while.

    Also, the VSS doesn't work when you let off the accelerator. Speedo dips. Even with a new VVS. So, my assumption is the gear set or component that drives the VSS gear is moving toward the VSS gear during acceleration and away during decel.

    These transmissions live well into the 700hp range with nothing more than full line pressure. I did not have full line pressure. And the end clutches were shot (steels severely warped).

    My options are buying an IPT rebuild kit and IPT restalled converter ($650 kit and $520 converter) or having IPT rebuild the trans ($3000) and an IPT restalled converter ($520).

    So she sits. Driveable but like a manual trans without a clutch. So no stopping.

    I will get this fixed this year. Waiting on job stuff to happen. Which thankfully now I'm just waiting.

    I'm back in the state where I'm from those of you who know me. Hiding deep in the woods while the world seems to be falling apart. I am so thankful to be home. I'm happy, still fat as ever and have a roof over my head. So to those of you who I know, I'm alright!


      Keep forgetting this is a manual transmission. Kind of sucks, how's your auto transmission knowledge ? Can you fix it if you have the parts?


        I don't know a whole lot but given enough time I feel confident I could rebuild it. There are quite a few resources out there as for tips and the processes of rebuilding this particular transmission.

        Honestly, I think if I threw a new torque converter in it and checked the torque converter lock up solenoid it would be ok. But it has that issue with the VSS and the steel being found in the bottom of the pan. I'm sure that steel was in there a while. I remember when it first threw the VSS code. After several miles of 1xxmph driving I let off and the speedo started it's crap and the CEL showed up for VSS. So even though it would likely run with a new torque converter I know it still wouldn't be right. VSS code (effects idle switch) and missing part or all of a steel somewhere. Likely in the front clutch under the pump which runs 1st 2nd and 3rd.

        If job stuff goes right this coming week I will pull it out and send it to IPT. If not, then I'm going to look at getting a replacement. I found a 2GA trans, t-case and rear diff for $1400. But then I will lose the factory rear LSD and the current gear ratio (which is better). 2GA 95-96. Everything has to match 2GB 97-99. Same deal. Because 2GA's and 2GB's have different gear ratios.
        Last edited by H311RA151N; 01-22-2021, 08:50 PM.


          I got a transmission!

          I picked up a TCU, Torque Converter & Transmission today! Only 35k on it. And it was local for $700 for everything.


            Sweet, I suppose these trans are becoming rare too?


              Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
              Sweet, I suppose these trans are becoming rare too?
              Yep. Apparently. I need to start getting shells and cheap junkers just for parts if and when I can over the next few years. Good thing is the auto FWD's aren't desirable even as of yet. They will be eventually. So I plan on gathering those. Trans parts aren't compatible with AWD but everything else is.

              I already had someone ask me for my old transmission on another forum in fact. DSM's attract some losers though. And DSM forums display that fact in magnification.

              My opinion,

     (90-93 Accord chassis but honestly we don't give a f#ck what you have/do as long as you cool).


                So I'm going with the following on the trans :

                -Kiggly 5 friction front clutch.
                -IPT end clutch.
                -Forced Four SMART 150 TCU.

                Basically I met a local guy with a 9.xx second 1GA DSM with nitrous, hx40 turbo, 8 point cage, a parachute and four slicks. He's got an automatic transmission in his as most 9 second and lower DSM's do. I bought the replacement transmission, converter and TCU from him which is how I met him. He's running a B&M Mega-shifter ratchet shifter and no TCU. He told me I should consider doing the same thing. Basically TCU's go bad on these without showing signs of failure on the board. So a lot of people run ratchet shifters and no TCU.

                But then he showed me 5 (five) 6 bolt cast iron 4G63 blocks on a shelf and a block out of the car semi complete on the garage floor. He told me one of the blocks he trashed when he accidentally downshifted instead of upshifted and blew the guts out of everything. AKA money-shift. I'm not doing that.

                Instead I'm going to a stand alone TCU that's fully programmable. The Forced Four SMART 150 TCU. It has a handheld shift box (option which I'm getting) with a red or blue display of the gear you are in. Being fully programmable you can lock it out of gears at certain speeds and RPM's. The thing also acts as a TCU with programmable shift points based on RPM, TPS, speed and of course gear. So you can switch between changing gears with the handheld as you fully control the trans (within the user set safety parameters we mentioned) and letting the unit shift for you. It comes with a basemap which is probably closely adjusted to stock.

                Last thing, the guy I met also mentioned that even at my power levels having full line pressure is crucial. He thinks that's likely what killed my trans. I told him I thought the W4A33 was good for 500 to even 700whp in stock configuration. He said I was correct but not without full line pressure. That's the one thing you must do. I missed that. Obviously. He thinks I broke a clutch basket or a drum. Oddly enough that's what I broke in my 700R4 C4 Vett that I had fixed and later sold. I tear auto's up. I've trashed a few now.

                The SMART 150 TCU also adds full line pressure.