H311RA151N : 1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

[H311RA151N]

Just getting back. Sorry guys. Life is nuts.

Anyhow, the W4A33 trans bit the dust. Torque converter locks when the fluid gets warm. So I might have toasted the torque converter. However, I pulled the transmission pan and there are pieces of a steel (if you've ever seen a wet clutch before or a kolene steel) in the pan folded in half.

I replaced the end clutch (4th gear) a week prior as it was slow to engage or would flair every once in a while.

Also, the VSS doesn't work when you let off the accelerator. Speedo dips. Even with a new VVS. So, my assumption is the gear set or component that drives the VSS gear is moving toward the VSS gear during acceleration and away during decel.

These transmissions live well into the 700hp range with nothing more than full line pressure. I did not have full line pressure. And the end clutches were shot (steels severely warped).

My options are buying an IPT rebuild kit and IPT restalled converter ($650 kit and $520 converter) or having IPT rebuild the trans ($3000) and an IPT restalled converter ($520).

So she sits. Driveable but like a manual trans without a clutch. So no stopping.

I will get this fixed this year. Waiting on job stuff to happen. Which thankfully now I'm just waiting.

I'm back in the state where I'm from those of you who know me. Hiding deep in the woods while the world seems to be falling apart. I am so thankful to be home. I'm happy, still fat as ever and have a roof over my head. So to those of you who I know, I'm alright!

[Raf99]

Keep forgetting this is a manual transmission. Kind of sucks, how's your auto transmission knowledge ? Can you fix it if you have the parts?

[H311RA151N]

I don't know a whole lot but given enough time I feel confident I could rebuild it. There are quite a few resources out there as for tips and the processes of rebuilding this particular transmission.

Honestly, I think if I threw a new torque converter in it and checked the torque converter lock up solenoid it would be ok. But it has that issue with the VSS and the steel being found in the bottom of the pan. I'm sure that steel was in there a while. I remember when it first threw the VSS code. After several miles of 1xxmph driving I let off and the speedo started it's crap and the CEL showed up for VSS. So even though it would likely run with a new torque converter I know it still wouldn't be right. VSS code (effects idle switch) and missing part or all of a steel somewhere. Likely in the front clutch under the pump which runs 1st 2nd and 3rd.

If job stuff goes right this coming week I will pull it out and send it to IPT. If not, then I'm going to look at getting a replacement. I found a 2GA trans, t-case and rear diff for $1400. But then I will lose the factory rear LSD and the current gear ratio (which is better). 2GA 95-96. Everything has to match 2GB 97-99. Same deal. Because 2GA's and 2GB's have different gear ratios.

[H311RA151N]

I got a transmission!

I picked up a TCU, Torque Converter & Transmission today! Only 35k on it. And it was local for $700 for everything.

[Raf99]

Sweet, I suppose these trans are becoming rare too?

[H311RA151N]

Sweet, I suppose these trans are becoming rare too?

Yep. Apparently. I need to start getting shells and cheap junkers just for parts if and when I can over the next few years. Good thing is the auto FWD's aren't desirable even as of yet. They will be eventually. So I plan on gathering those. Trans parts aren't compatible with AWD but everything else is.

I already had someone ask me for my old transmission on another forum in fact. DSM's attract some losers though. And DSM forums display that fact in magnification.

My opinion,

CB7tuner.com (90-93 Accord chassis but honestly we don't give a f#ck what you have/do as long as you cool).

[H311RA151N]

So I'm going with the following on the trans :

-Kiggly 5 friction front clutch.
-IPT end clutch.
-Forced Four SMART 150 TCU.

Basically I met a local guy with a 9.xx second 1GA DSM with nitrous, hx40 turbo, 8 point cage, a parachute and four slicks. He's got an automatic transmission in his as most 9 second and lower DSM's do. I bought the replacement transmission, converter and TCU from him which is how I met him. He's running a B&M Mega-shifter ratchet shifter and no TCU. He told me I should consider doing the same thing. Basically TCU's go bad on these without showing signs of failure on the board. So a lot of people run ratchet shifters and no TCU.

But then he showed me 5 (five) 6 bolt cast iron 4G63 blocks on a shelf and a block out of the car semi complete on the garage floor. He told me one of the blocks he trashed when he accidentally downshifted instead of upshifted and blew the guts out of everything. AKA money-shift. I'm not doing that.

Instead I'm going to a stand alone TCU that's fully programmable. The Forced Four SMART 150 TCU. It has a handheld shift box (option which I'm getting) with a red or blue display of the gear you are in. Being fully programmable you can lock it out of gears at certain speeds and RPM's. The thing also acts as a TCU with programmable shift points based on RPM, TPS, speed and of course gear. So you can switch between changing gears with the handheld as you fully control the trans (within the user set safety parameters we mentioned) and letting the unit shift for you. It comes with a basemap which is probably closely adjusted to stock.

Last thing, the guy I met also mentioned that even at my power levels having full line pressure is crucial. He thinks that's likely what killed my trans. I told him I thought the W4A33 was good for 500 to even 700whp in stock configuration. He said I was correct but not without full line pressure. That's the one thing you must do. I missed that. Obviously. He thinks I broke a clutch basket or a drum. Oddly enough that's what I broke in my 700R4 C4 Vett that I had fixed and later sold. I tear auto's up. I've trashed a few now.

The SMART 150 TCU also adds full line pressure.

[H311RA151N]

I'm prepping the transmission and have all the parts ordered.

I ordered:

IPT End Clutch Kit
OEM Transmission Pan Gasket & Filter
OEM Output Seals
OEM Input Seal For Transfer Case
OEM Rear Main Seal
Mopar ATF+4, 3 Gallons

And I went with the Forced Four DSM Plus2 shift box.

I think that's everything. I hope to have it in the car in a week or so.

[Raf99]

So with this work done, she'll be back on the road for this summer?

[H311RA151N]

So with this work done, she'll be back on the road for this summer?

I'm hoping. I'm 12 hours in and just now ready to pull the transmission.

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I pulled both knuckles, and the lower control arm/strut bolts need replaced. I broke the nut off on the driver side and the passenger side was trashed. These bolts along with the two sub frame to lower control arm bolts are $80. When the nut broke off I found the bolt to be completely seized into the lower control arm and the strut fork. I had to get creative to get this apart.

The sway bar end link nuts were totally seized on both sides. I had to cut the nuts off of them. These are $25 each and luckily Moog makes them.

The driver side CV shaft was seized into the intermediate shaft. I had to beat it off with a hammer after cutting the boot off. So I need a new driver side CV shaft.

I couldn't get one of the 5 bolts out holding the transfer case in as the 3" downpipe was in the way so I had to remove that. And I've had serious issues getting it to fit the Power XS or stock O2 housing. So taking this off really pissed me off as it's next to impossible to get back on. So, I'm done with the BS O2 housings and I'm going straight to a JM Fab which is the only good option available. It's $350 and 4-6 weeks out. The current one the pipes are in the way of the nuts when mounting. And you can't get a wrench in there so your left fighting it to get everything tight. Then the spacing in the bolt holes on the O2 housing outlet are so narrow that it's just a pain. JM Fab makes a true 2.5" outlet O2 housing. The downpipe necks down at the O2 housing to 2.5" to fit O2 housings. Only factory style turbos have O2 housings.

Right now I need to get one bolt out (the last bolt) of the rear transmission bracket and and it's time to remove the mounting bolts (trans to block) and pull the transmission out. To get this bolt out I'm pretty sure that I need to remove the intake/TB elbow. So that's another OEM gasket to replace/scrape. $5-$10.

If you know what you are doing and your car isn't a royal (capital C) C*nt bag b!tch then it wouldn't be that bad. This car clearly needs an exorcist.

Right now I'm thinking it might be a couple weeks until I get back on it. I smashed one of my fingers and tore the hide off of the pad of it and it's seriously not fun. That's when I called it quits today. The other reason is I finally landed a job (good job) after Covid. Even with my occasional outbursts of humorous rage and frequent profanity of the same I've somehow been blessed with the best job of my life thus far and I'm back home with my family. Monday I start a new job overseeing a team of 20-22 engineering and grounds staff at a resort where I live. I had been going big for the past 6 months and finally landed my dream job and an executive status. Neither of which I expected. The title is more than I bargained for and everything else is excellent too. Best I've ever had by a large margin. Maybe in the next year or so I will be able to get something newer that's not such a POS. As this car clearly hates me.

[Straight Success]

First, congrats on the new job - blessings, on blessings, on blessings. Second, get that finger healed up so we can see more progress. I'm enjoying the longevity of this.

[H311RA151N]

First, congrats on the new job - blessings, on blessings, on blessings. Second, get that finger healed up so we can see more progress. I'm enjoying the longevity of this.

I really appreciate it!

I super glued the finger and it's doing better. I've learned if the wound is clean of grease and such you can run some alcohol over it quickly, let it evaporate and get the wound closed/skin back on ASAP and your 10x better off as it will grow back together most of the time. Super glue works wonders. I used some Permatex super glue and dollar store bandaids.

As for the car, how about some pics? I've thought about pulling the engine as it's so close to coming out. Too bad I didn't have the 6 bolt built yet. With the engine out I could do the timing easily and some other small things and drop the engine and trans in as one. Also much easier.


Prior to getting started.



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The replacement W4A33.



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This thing is super dirty. Grease on the fender etc. But the trans is almost ready to drop.



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I'm thinking I'm going to paint/coat... do something with all this.



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And here's how fun these bolts were being.

[SSMAccord]

Congrats on the new job! It seems like some of these bolts and parts need a decent coat of anti-seize upon reassembly to prevent this from being so difficult in the future. Good update on this project.

[Raf99]

Congrats on that job! Great thing to happen in this time of crisis. And those bolts. ugggg eeeek. I follow this ride because long long ago when I bought my cb7 I had narrowed my choice down to a cb7 or this car (eagle talon).
I read this car was a major PITA to work on and it just fails. BUT if you know cars it can also be a great AWD monster. Your car looks good too.

[H311RA151N]

Congrats on the new job! It seems like some of these bolts and parts need a decent coat of anti-seize upon reassembly to prevent this from being so difficult in the future. Good update on this project.

Thank you! Definitely, I don't know if it was the Northern weather/salt or if it was disassembled and reassembled without anti-seize but it was a pain to get apart. However, it is apart now. So that's good! It won't be that difficult if there is a next time for sure. It's getting plenty of anti-seize.