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deevergote : 1990 Mazda Miata

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    #61
    I should bring mine up to NJ one day now that mine's up and running again.

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      #62
      Looks nice.

      I have been noticing that there are a lot of these starting to pop up for sale around me for reasonable prices. Still not sure one would be a fit for me. I really like the new ones....might have to save up a few more pennies!
      MR Thread
      GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

      by Chappy, on Flickr

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        #63
        The new ones are actually shorter than the original!
        They’re fun cars. The 1st gen is increasing in value. A 1.8 or newer 1.6 model with no rust is quite valuable. Especially if it hasn’t been molested! M Editions are the ones to get.






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          #64





          Turns out it had a REALLY crappy respray that was starting to peel... so I picked off the loose paint, sanded and primered, and then plastidipped the whole thing blurple to protect it until I can get it properly painted.
          I put about half of the recommended amount on... 27 cans... so it MIGHT be a bitch to remove. We shall see.

          Going with cans was... unwise. You can see the texture, especially on the hood. I don't mind for a temporary protective coating, but I'd be really annoyed if I actually expected it to turn out looking good!
          I think I may invest in the DYC sprayer at some point, though. It was kinda fun, and I'd like the process if the result was better than cans could achieve!






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            #65
            Update: Added a picture of the screwed up paint above. And yes, all the flakes you see on the driveway are bits of paint.

            I'm trying to talk myself into buying the proper materials to do a real dip job on the car. If I get the DYC pro level dip and apply it correctly, the coating could last two years or more (especially since the car is garaged most of the time.)






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              #66
              Originally posted by deevergote View Post
              Update: Added a picture of the screwed up paint above. And yes, all the flakes you see on the driveway are bits of paint.

              I'm trying to talk myself into buying the proper materials to do a real dip job on the car. If I get the DYC pro level dip and apply it correctly, the coating could last two years or more (especially since the car is garaged most of the time.)
              Rattle canning anything sucks on the fingers eventually.

              I have found that the secret to getting good Plastidip is just like they tell you on the DYC youtube channel. Put that first coat on lightly and once that one is no longer tacky, you can actually put the stuff on really thick, and if you do that (I always spray until it looks completely wet, which about when other paints are starting run), then it will more or less self-level as the Plastidip flows a little.

              Of course, larger surface areas are like painting walls, in order to avoid the streaks and texture, you have to do several coats and do them from different angles (same with a rattle can job).

              The biggest thing I don't like about it is that it comes off relatively easy most of the time, but there are always small chunks that stay in the crevices, which are a PITA to get out, unless you start taking stuff apart.

              But like you said, it will at least keep it from rusting.


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                #67
                Originally posted by owequitit View Post
                Rattle canning anything sucks on the fingers eventually.

                I have found that the secret to getting good Plastidip is just like they tell you on the DYC youtube channel. Put that first coat on lightly and once that one is no longer tacky, you can actually put the stuff on really thick, and if you do that (I always spray until it looks completely wet, which about when other paints are starting run), then it will more or less self-level as the Plastidip flows a little.

                Of course, larger surface areas are like painting walls, in order to avoid the streaks and texture, you have to do several coats and do them from different angles (same with a rattle can job).

                The biggest thing I don't like about it is that it comes off relatively easy most of the time, but there are always small chunks that stay in the crevices, which are a PITA to get out, unless you start taking stuff apart.

                But like you said, it will at least keep it from rusting.
                I used a trigger adapter to save my fingers... and it still hurt like a motherfucker after 27 cans! Roughly half of the recommended amount, unfortunately. I seem to have gotten good coverage (4-6 solid wet coats, and I didn't spray the front bumper) so it might be enough. We'll find out when peeling time comes!

                I was able to get fairly decent coverage when I could hold the cans upright. I should have taken the hood and trunklid off, as they're pretty bad. A couple cans did spit, though. I left the cans sitting in the sun before using them, so they wouldn't do that. Still, about 3 of them did. Once you get splatter, there's no going back.

                I'm looking forward to getting the DYC sprayer. Once I do that, it won't take that much to change the color on the tiny car. I can play with it for a while before I get it painted for real.


                I masked pretty well, but there are definitely some spots that are going to be a pain to get off. I'm thinking a pencil eraser might help.






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                  #68
                  Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                  I used a trigger adapter to save my fingers... and it still hurt like a motherfucker after 27 cans! Roughly half of the recommended amount, unfortunately. I seem to have gotten good coverage (4-6 solid wet coats, and I didn't spray the front bumper) so it might be enough. We'll find out when peeling time comes!

                  I was able to get fairly decent coverage when I could hold the cans upright. I should have taken the hood and trunklid off, as they're pretty bad. A couple cans did spit, though. I left the cans sitting in the sun before using them, so they wouldn't do that. Still, about 3 of them did. Once you get splatter, there's no going back.

                  I'm looking forward to getting the DYC sprayer. Once I do that, it won't take that much to change the color on the tiny car. I can play with it for a while before I get it painted for real.


                  I masked pretty well, but there are definitely some spots that are going to be a pain to get off. I'm thinking a pencil eraser might help.
                  I've had the cans spit a few times too. I literally just wiped if off and redipped it. Actually worked surprisingly well! Can't do that with spray paint.


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                    #69
                    Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                    I used a trigger adapter to save my fingers... and it still hurt like a motherfucker after 27 cans! Roughly half of the recommended amount, unfortunately. I seem to have gotten good coverage (4-6 solid wet coats, and I didn't spray the front bumper) so it might be enough. We'll find out when peeling time comes!

                    I was able to get fairly decent coverage when I could hold the cans upright. I should have taken the hood and trunklid off, as they're pretty bad. A couple cans did spit, though. I left the cans sitting in the sun before using them, so they wouldn't do that. Still, about 3 of them did. Once you get splatter, there's no going back.

                    I'm looking forward to getting the DYC sprayer. Once I do that, it won't take that much to change the color on the tiny car. I can play with it for a while before I get it painted for real.


                    I masked pretty well, but there are definitely some spots that are going to be a pain to get off. I'm thinking a pencil eraser might help.
                    If the edge stuff gives you trouble, the microfiber towels really do work wonders. It comes right off. Q-Tips work pretty well on the crevices.


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