Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1/4 Mile Drag racing tips?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    1/4 Mile Drag racing tips?

    I plan on going to the track this summer and wanted to mentally go through the steps of a 1/4 mile drag race.

    Tips on:

    Warming up the tires.

    Launching at the light.

    Shifting.

    I've never raced on the street or at the track so give me the basics. Thanks!

    If further details are needed of my setup, like what motor, clutch, or tires I'm running are needed, I can provide. I really want this to be just a generic FWD drag racing thread, that way anyone regardless of what setup they are using can still benefit from the information provided.

    #2
    well, you'll want soft tires with correct tire pressures (generally lower than street use) and a clutch that can withstand high rpm clutch dumps. i may be wrong, but i'd probably go with just a stage 1 if still a daily driven car. stage 2 if the car sees track use or dragways more than often. like i said, this could all be dead wrong.
    GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

    Comment


      #3
      Avoid water box,
      Try to stay off the limiter even when warming tires aka burnout
      Have fun
      If you wait for green you waited too long
      My 91 ex coupe
      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb//showthread.php?t=189841

      Comment


        #4
        Terrible info do not spin street tires more than to get the dirt off so a quick clutch pop is all that's needed, do not dump the clutch off the line either. Spinning isn't winning and both dumping of the clutch and a massive burnout will lead to more spinning.

        02 Crv
        02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
        92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
        Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

        Comment


          #5
          good, wide, low pressure tires will prevent spinning. and a good clutch will take the abuse of dumping it.
          GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

          Comment


            #6
            I run 235/45's BFG-G Forces an awsome street summer radial. Even then no matter how low a pressure you wish to go dumping the clutch and a pre burnout will not gain you a thing. You never want to put excessive heat on a everyday street compound at a strip, a street tire does not mean a street legal drag radial which is fine to heat up. As said before no more than enough to get debris off the tire is needed.

            Riding or feathering the clutch out of the hole is what i have found best for leaving the line without damaging the drivetrain to much and spinning on any car with street tires.

            02 Crv
            02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
            92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
            Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ProSouth View Post
              good, wide, low pressure tires will prevent spinning. and a good clutch will take the abuse of dumping it.
              slicks/drag radials, yea. Street tires are not designed to run on low pressure. They are also not designed to go through a water box and then do a burnout. All that does is make a street tire greasy.

              honestly, you just have to go out and try things. if you arent getting the results you want, you cant approach every time down the strip the same. You have to try different launch rpms, different loads during launching, when to shift.....etc. I have personally found it pointless to be on a drag strip without drag radials or slicks. Being on street tires wont teach you much. especially when you have a setup that can spin them easily. Once you figure out how to get traction, driver skill is a HUGE factor.

              It just takes time. Eventually you figure your car out and understand what you need to upgrade or what you need to do as a driver.
              www.850fab.com
              IG - @850Fab
              FB - @850Fabrication

              Comment


                #8
                well if i were going to the track i'd have two seperate tires and wheels for the front, drag tires. just me. if i had a car at the track (when i was younger and broke) i never did burn outs at all. and yeah, i feathered the clutch to prevent drive train malfunctions.
                GATORS GONNA GATE - - im also here: www.x-h20.com

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by dockinrez View Post
                  Avoid water box,
                  Try to stay off the limiter even when warming tires aka burnout
                  Have fun
                  If you wait for green you waited too long
                  This is probably the best stuff to keep in mind.

                  I usually race at about 28psi (warm), and it has worked pretty well. Depends on the tires, but you don't want to go TOO low, or you'll be using your sidewalls more than your proper contact patch.

                  Hit the gas when the second yellow flashes.






                  Comment


                    #10
                    Matt, All these guys pretty much summed it up! Great advice!
                    Practice! Adjust! and keep trying till you get your car on lock!
                    We'll be out there together

                    MRT H22A - 302whp - N2O
                    MRT F22B - 643whp - 529tq @ 30psi
                    11.33 @ 131mph @ 27psi

                    Comment


                      #11
                      best advice i can give is to ride the clutch a little when launching. you want to get as much power down as possible without wheelspin and without shocking the crank. as far as shifting goes, dumping the clutch into the next gear and trying to make it bark tires is also a no no. dont get me wrong im not saying granny shift it but smooth is fast. know your powerband and your gears. shifting just before the revlimiter is not always the answer. depending on your exact setup i could go different with the rest of my advice. trust me though, knowing the ins and outs of your powerband and how the gearing you have effects it are the greatest weapon you can have. proof is in the pudding, i can pull a 14.7 on kuhmo 205/55/15 ecsta 4x's at 38psi with only 174ish whp behind a m2s4 in a 2860lbs cb7.

                      MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        Hit the gas when the second yellow flashes.
                        I'm a noob when it comes to official drag racing, so you're saying like start moving when the second yellow flashes or start letting off the clutch? I mean in theory you're already on the gas because you're launching at a certain rpm correct?
                        '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                        Originally posted by deevergote
                        If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Pretty cool video:

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Think this would help
                            http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ACSHiN5UeKU

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Don't forget to deploy the chutes after crossing the finish line.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X