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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Trunk struts
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There's this guy with in Accord that has been screwing around with some gas lift supports that he bought for his hood that were the wrong one. he found the fulcrum point on the hinge arm and has mounted them to their and the floor. He said that starting to lift or starting to close is pretty strong but there is a center point where it gets easy here's a link to his Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/p/B5isRjEH..._web_copy_link
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Yeah, I spent about 2 hours farting about with it using a tape measure and stuff. I got frustrated and left it for another day.
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Originally posted by crazymikey View PostNot necessarily that, but mounting locations inside the trunk. When I test fitted the CD5 strut (measures 7.5" closed, 13.5" fully extended), I attached one end to the hinge, but I couldn't find a place inside the trunk to mount the strut that would allow it to pivot enough with the hinge when closed, which obviously means the strut I'm trying to use is too short for what I want it to do.
And yes, the hinge design is really stupid, not to mention the hinges do take up a lot of space when closed, since they hang right down into the usable space.
Use a piece of string to start , that will give you an approximate length needed to mount 2 points.
Fold the back seat down and close the boot, then figure out the closed length.
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Not necessarily that, but mounting locations inside the trunk. When I test fitted the CD5 strut (measures 7.5" closed, 13.5" fully extended), I attached one end to the hinge, but I couldn't find a place inside the trunk to mount the strut that would allow it to pivot enough with the hinge when closed, which obviously means the strut I'm trying to use is too short for what I want it to do.
And yes, the hinge design is really stupid, not to mention the hinges do take up a lot of space when closed, since they hang right down into the usable space.
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Originally posted by crazymikey View PostIt seems like I would need to completely remove the existing hinges and adapt new scissor style ones like the CD5. However, they would require modification to mount.
I think my issue using the CD5 strut was that it was too short. It was strong enough to open and close the trunk, but was too short to pivot all the way with the hinge and would bind and not close the trunk all the way, leaving it half open. However, it would open the trunk and support it's weight no problem.
Perhaps I could test fit one of the Legend struts and see if I can use a longer strut that will give enough travel and pivot to close the trunk.
I would love to adapt CD5 scissor style hinges to the trunk as an ideal outcome. In the end I could work something out, but it's definetly time consuming, and not really a project I'd care to devote a lot of time to for something that doesn't get used that often.
That is - Is doesn't really have a "Spring" point of balance, it always seemed to need help to do anything.
Either way, you could adapt struts to the circular "D" shaped hinges fairly easily.
It's not really that complicated, you just need to figure out the strut stroke vs pressure ratio required.
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It seems like I would need to completely remove the existing hinges and adapt new scissor style ones like the CD5. However, they would require modification to mount.
I think my issue using the CD5 strut was that it was too short. It was strong enough to open and close the trunk, but was too short to pivot all the way with the hinge and would bind and not close the trunk all the way, leaving it half open. However, it would open the trunk and support it's weight no problem.
Perhaps I could test fit one of the Legend struts and see if I can use a longer strut that will give enough travel and pivot to close the trunk.
I would love to adapt CD5 scissor style hinges to the trunk as an ideal outcome. In the end I could work something out, but it's definetly time consuming, and not really a project I'd care to devote a lot of time to for something that doesn't get used that often.Last edited by crazymikey; 04-15-2012, 12:23 AM.
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Originally posted by crazymikey View PostOur cars have the hinges with springs, which really isn't a great set up, and it's easy for the trunk to blow shut or accidentally be knocked shut.Originally posted by mtnbikaah View PostHe's got a Jetta Flushmount on his trunk.. Apparently it's really heavy. (relatively that is..)
Good thing the OP stated that he needed stronger springs due to his heavy Non-OEM spoiler
Originally posted by crazymikey View PostThe VW flushmount I have is the foam style, and the thing probably weighs damn near 10lbs. It must weigh twice what a CB OEM spoiler does. It's like a giant weight on my trunk lid. It even takes some extra effort to open my trunk.
Originally posted by crazymikey View PostI don't want to add OEM trunk springs. My intent is to add struts just for something different, because I haven't see anyone do it.
You don't actually not want springs because "Originally posted by crazymikey View PostOur cars have the hinges with springs, which really isn't a great set up, and it's easy for the trunk to blow shut or accidentally be knocked shut.
I'm not taking the piss, I'm just showing you the basis of this thread.
If you want trunk struts, you will need to source some from another vehicle.
It really isn't that hard to setup either, just make sure you use low pressure struts - Most likely candidate is some 20 year old ones that have lost their pressure, Like some out of a legend that can no longer hold the hood up, in conjunction with the original CB springs.
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I put struts on my trunk. I spent a lot of time doing it too. Unfortunately, the way our trunks are hinged, they aren't easily compatible with struts. The problem I had was when the trunk was shut, the struts were still applying pressure to the hinges and the front corners stuck up and it was all out of whack. Long story short, the ball mounts are still welded in there, but I pulled the struts out and put the torsion rods back in. I used struts and mounts that I salvaged from a Mazda 3 decklid. They use the scissor style hinges which mount in the decklid gutter outside the weatherstrip, and are too tall to mount to the accord.
Not saying it can't be done, just saying that I tried it, didn't like my results, and didn't feel like spending anymore time trying to figure it out.
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The VW flushmount I have is the foam style, and the thing probably weighs damn near 10lbs. It must weigh twice what a CB OEM spoiler does. It's like a giant weight on my trunk lid. It even takes some extra effort to open my trunk.
I used to have a VW flushmount that was the plastic version on my SE, and I had no issues with my trunk staying open with that because it was lighter, or as light as an OEM spoiler. My SE did not have an OEM spoiler, so it only had the regular springs which I have now. I hate the foam style one too, because it's all warped and shitty, as you can see in the pic.
I don't want to add OEM trunk springs. My intent is to add struts just for something different, because I haven't see anyone do it.
It would be possible to modify the CD5 hinges to work, but that will take some bodywork & modification to make it work, which at this point I am not willing to tackle yet.
Plastic style:
Last edited by crazymikey; 04-14-2012, 08:46 PM.
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If your CB doesn't have a spoiler, fit the Spoiler option springs to it.
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