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91 EX 5spd CB9 in Frost White

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    daovangphotos precisely what we did. Sorry for not explaining thoroughly. We are using all the OBD2 stuff from the USDM BB6. As it stands right now the F20B has the USDM H22: complete intake mani, diz (same but new), alternator (same but new), harness, ecu, coil (new), thermo housing, water pipe, oil cooler, spark plugs & wires.. sorry if I'm missing something here but I'm pretty sure all the USDM stuff is good to go.... is the H22 exhaust mani any better? Will it make a difference in performance when we get it running? They look the same. Casting #s are diff tho.. I also read somewhere that "all the pullies need to be swapped over as well in order for the cps to read the magnets" .. if this is the case then this probably why it wont create sprark. Cps is a culprit too until the new one goes on.. process of elimination tactics lol

    Thank you for the sea foam tip!!! That's going to help tremendously !



      Typically with any swaps, it is always best to check the grounds.
      They play a huge role in the ECU and sending spark/fuel.

      Main grounds, since you did an engine over haul:
      Transmission ground (Large ground from battery straight to transmission)
      Valve cover ground (Driver side motor mount/ or power steering bracket)
      Thermostat ground (all major grounds for sensors at thermostat, also sends ground to ECU)

      Also, under the dizzy, ensure the 2 wire connector is plugged in (ECTS: Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) Ensure it is not broken either.

      You might want to swap that sensor out from the old motor to test.

      The seafoam information was given to me by an actual smog technician friend of mine during the time I was still residing in California, when I BAR legalized my H22 swap.



        Those are all great tips and really appreciated.. Turns out the CPK/TDC sensor was bad, new one installed and it reads all the h22a4 pulley we swapped over when swapping to new cpk sensor​Bb6 is up and running again. Def needs a tune now.

        Thanks everyone for replying and shooting info bcuz it's just me and my brother doing this. Super helpful.

        AS FOR THE CB9 I went ahead and did the plenum stack and doing so eliminated this air-bobbing noise I was having. It sounded like it was coming from the plenum when I did the upgrade the 1st time around, most likely because I re-used the bottom plenum gasket ​. Thought I could get away with it but noooooo.

        Anyways, it sounds GREAT now and it pulls a little bit harder in each gear. I was going to use a panel filter from simota but ended up using the injen velocity filter instead because I guess there's a velocity stack built in​.

        I need to fab up an air box to keep this thing nice and cool though. I removed the resonator behind the fender to let some cooler air in too. Replaced the intake temp sensor as well. Added some double insulation between the intake tube/battery and the lower rad hose. Replaced the iacv too bcuz the new one was faulty, leaking coolant. Flushed and burped the coolant system too. Now looking into getting a ground kit soon...


          CB7Tunerrrr It's been a good minute since I posted anything and so I thought I'd update a little bit of what I'm going thru with this car.

          So far the plenum stack is AMAZING. Oh my goodness the sound, the response, the tad bit of extra torque you get down low totally makes it worth it. I love driving this thing around and I get compliments all the time. The only thing I'm needing now is a nice custom exhaust.

          The "air bobbing" issue I was having turned out to be the idle screw. The iacv was having hard time keeping up im guessing based on what I've been reading. So I adjusted base idle according to the write up and played with the screw position to get a solid idle and smooth, non-pulsing harmonic sound from intake.

          So a few days ago the car started to overheat very slowly in a drive-thru. Needle went up slowly but went back down as soon as I got it moving.

          At this point all coolant sensors have been replaced along with OE thermostat. A replacement ECT arrives tomorrow just in case the (new)one that's installed turns out to be faulty. THIS TIME I'll triple check to make sure all connections are cleaned/tested with multimeter AND take the time to burp the system.

          I'll report back once all that is done. I'm hoping it's not my water pump


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              .... so the overheating ended up being due to faulty fan switch. I received the replacement in the mail and it looked nothing like the one I was replacing so I didn't even bother using it. Took a quick trip to the local junkyard and pulled a couple of TEC switches, tested all of them, and confirmed that the new sensor was in fact faulty, not allowing cooling fans to come on. Tested the thermostat also and that checked out fine (OE).

              Just my luck, the same day i fixed this, I had a fuel line bust on me near the fuel filter. Fixed that, then a few days later, a tire blows out on the freeway. Good times.

              Next thing to address will be my input shaft bearing. I've been reading up on this and seen some YT videos of cars (hondas) making this same sound. Essentially the chirping/squeaking sound goes away completely when the clutch pedal is pushed in. I'll most likely upgrade the clutch as well.

              ....until next post....

              ........ oh and by the way, has anyone installed the S1 AWD conversion kit yet?????


                Sweet wagon! You can clean up that intake manifold with a plastic brush and some water and baking soda, make a paste solution and brush it on there, it should clean up real nice. That's what I would try.

                I skimmed your posts and didn't see it but what front lip is that from?