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Idle at 5k rpm

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    #1

    Idle at 5k rpm

    Okay I've just installed my H23 IM . I fire up the car and it starts right away, but it goes all the way to redline immediately! I turn it off right away and back off the throttle body cable a bit. Well now it idles at 5k rpm. It sure sounds meaner than before at this speed

    What are the likely culprits of this? Is this probably the TPS in need of adjustment (I transplanted it from my old throttle body into the H23 one)?
    Thanks for answering my rapid fire questions about this project.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Originally posted by phantomcow2 View Post
    Okay I've just installed my H23 IM . I fire up the car and it starts right away, but it goes all the way to redline immediately! I turn it off right away and back off the throttle body cable a bit. Well now it idles at 5k rpm. It sure sounds meaner than before at this speed

    What are the likely culprits of this? Is this probably the TPS in need of adjustment (I transplanted it from my old throttle body into the H23 one)?
    Thanks for answering my rapid fire questions about this project.
    It could be the TPS. You should make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.


    PARTING OUT MY 1990 EX COUPE!! EVERYTHING FOR SALE! CLICK HERE
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      #3
      I never have run into this problem, but it does sound like it's the tps since you swapped it over, were you able to adj. it or did you guess @ the setting? Any coolant leaks or other problems?

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        #4
        I ran into this problem yesterday, Check to see if your Intake Manifold Gasket is present. Mine wasnt so I bought a new one that is about an inch thick and made of plastic for 40 bucks

        I breathe down shit so hard, you could see sound.

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          #5
          Originally posted by NJ_STAMPEDE_LX View Post
          I bought a new one that is about an inch thick and made of plastic for 40 bucks
          Are you talking about a manifold gasket that goes between the runners and the head? Or a spacer that goes between the plenum and the runners? Because with a spacer, you still need to use the gaskets.

          I have never seen a intake manifold gasket for in between the runners and the head that is 1 inch thick.


          PARTING OUT MY 1990 EX COUPE!! EVERYTHING FOR SALE! CLICK HERE
          Listen or download the first 4 songs I completed for my new upcoming album here!!
          My member's ride

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            #6
            I would go with the tps or the throttle cable is still to tight. Do you have the right bracket for the throttle cable. Assuming you used the one on the H23 and did not transfer the one from the F manifold. They could be the same but as with B and D series they are different. Just a thought.

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              #7
              Okay thanks for the replies. I haven't had time to really crack down and look at the car today, but I did try and completely disconnect the accelerator cable, leaving the throttle body in it's closed position. I used the cable bracket from the F22 plenum, which seems to fit just fine.
              After disconnecting the throttle body the car revs to 4500rpm or so. Regardless the presumably improper setting of the TPS, this sounds to me like a serious vacuum leak; the engine has to be getting air from somewhere!

              Is my theory correct? Can the throttle body sensor still be the cause of this? Mind you the car is still on the jack stands and has not been put into gear.

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                #8
                when you start it, put you hand over the throttle body, it should kill the engine. If it keeps running you have a leak.
                wat?

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                  #9
                  It turned out that the cover I made for the FITV holes on the throttle body was not up to par and leaking badly. I reinforced this and the idle is now about 2500. There's still a leak, but it's not coming from here; even with the throttle body completely closed and covered up, it idles at about 800rpm.

                  It's nice to see the butterfly valves working though .

                  I checked the TPS resistance against what my Haynes manual says, less than 1k ohms when completely closed, and I adjusted it to be okay.

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                    #10
                    Good to hear that you got it working.

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                      #11
                      Update on the situation

                      When everything is connected but FITV is bypassed (holes covered up), the engine will idle at just under 3000rpm. This is really high. But if I disconnect the IACV connection, the idle drops to about 1500rpm. The problem is that it fluctuates to about 2000rpm. This makes the car very difficult to drive because I of the torque the car produces at this speed; if I engine brake at all it will begin to jerk severely once the idle kicks in and I am in gear.

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