This thread is for all the my car just died / doesn't start problems.
An engine needs 3 basics things to run - Fuel, spark and compression.
Timing is also a factor, but incorrect timing can still result in a running engine (although more than likely it will run rough) if far enough out it will not run at all.
To check for fuel:
Fit a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure.
Pressure should be:
35-41psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator disconnected
29-35psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator connected
If you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge, crack off the 10mm bolt on the fuel feed line, if fuel is coming out then you have fuel at the injectors inlet.
NOTE - This does not necessarily mean the injectors are firing.
To check if the injectors are working, you can listen to the solenoids inside them by holding a screwdriver on them and listening for the clicking sound.
To check for spark:
Remove the plug leads, and put an old (but working) sparkplug into the lead, then ground the tip of the sparkplug on a suitable ground.
Have a friend crank the engine while you watch the sparkplug.
If you see a spark jumping the gap, you have spark.
If not, either the sparkplug isn't grounded correctly, or there is a problem in the ignition circuit.
To check for compression:
Get a compression gauge, and fit it into each sparkplug hole one by one.
Wind the engine over for 6-8 compressions and take the reading.
Compression for F20/F22 should be:
Nominal -178psi
Minimum - 135psi
Maximum variation between cylinders - 28psi
To check Static timing:
Remove rocker cover and top timing belt cover.
Set the crank at TDC (white pointer on the flywheel)
If the static timing is correct, the cam pulley should have the arrow pointing up, and the two marks 90 degrees to the left and right of the "Arrow/UP" should line up with the head.
My car doesnt crank:
- Check the Battery
- With ignition at crank position, you should be getting source voltage at the one wire circuit on the starter,
- Check for source voltage at the positive post on the starter
If you have voltages at both and still doesnt do anything, listen for a click. no click? gently tap the solenoid (small cylinder)
Nothing? Replace the starter.
If the starter sounds like it wants to go but doesn't
- Check connections
- Recheck battery
- Check for a locked up motor
If the starter spins but makes a grinding noise
- Check flywheel/flexplate ring gear for wear
- Check starter drive gear for wear.
No fuel
-check if there's actually fuel in it
-check for pinched line or clogged filter
-check for fuel pump buzz at key up
-operation of main relay
-incorrectly hooked up fuel gauge. i use the OTC fuel gauge setup with adapter 68.
No spark
-check at coil, if good at coil replace cap and rotor.
-test light on positive and with cap off for internal coil, place on negative end of coil. Have someone turn the engine over, the test light should blink rapidly. if no blink or intermittent...check ignitor, positive end of coil for battery source and signal from ecu.
-if no power at coil + which is the blk/yellow wire, check ignition switch for power and main relay
An engine needs 3 basics things to run - Fuel, spark and compression.
Timing is also a factor, but incorrect timing can still result in a running engine (although more than likely it will run rough) if far enough out it will not run at all.
To check for fuel:
Fit a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure.
Pressure should be:
35-41psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator disconnected
29-35psi with the engine idling, and the vacuum hose of the fuel regulator connected
If you don't have access to a fuel pressure gauge, crack off the 10mm bolt on the fuel feed line, if fuel is coming out then you have fuel at the injectors inlet.
NOTE - This does not necessarily mean the injectors are firing.
To check if the injectors are working, you can listen to the solenoids inside them by holding a screwdriver on them and listening for the clicking sound.
To check for spark:
Remove the plug leads, and put an old (but working) sparkplug into the lead, then ground the tip of the sparkplug on a suitable ground.
Have a friend crank the engine while you watch the sparkplug.
If you see a spark jumping the gap, you have spark.
If not, either the sparkplug isn't grounded correctly, or there is a problem in the ignition circuit.
To check for compression:
Get a compression gauge, and fit it into each sparkplug hole one by one.
Wind the engine over for 6-8 compressions and take the reading.
Compression for F20/F22 should be:
Nominal -178psi
Minimum - 135psi
Maximum variation between cylinders - 28psi
To check Static timing:
Remove rocker cover and top timing belt cover.
Set the crank at TDC (white pointer on the flywheel)
If the static timing is correct, the cam pulley should have the arrow pointing up, and the two marks 90 degrees to the left and right of the "Arrow/UP" should line up with the head.
My car doesnt crank:
- Check the Battery
- With ignition at crank position, you should be getting source voltage at the one wire circuit on the starter,
- Check for source voltage at the positive post on the starter
If you have voltages at both and still doesnt do anything, listen for a click. no click? gently tap the solenoid (small cylinder)
Nothing? Replace the starter.
If the starter sounds like it wants to go but doesn't
- Check connections
- Recheck battery
- Check for a locked up motor
If the starter spins but makes a grinding noise
- Check flywheel/flexplate ring gear for wear
- Check starter drive gear for wear.
No fuel
-check if there's actually fuel in it
-check for pinched line or clogged filter
-check for fuel pump buzz at key up
-operation of main relay
-incorrectly hooked up fuel gauge. i use the OTC fuel gauge setup with adapter 68.
No spark
-check at coil, if good at coil replace cap and rotor.
-test light on positive and with cap off for internal coil, place on negative end of coil. Have someone turn the engine over, the test light should blink rapidly. if no blink or intermittent...check ignitor, positive end of coil for battery source and signal from ecu.
-if no power at coil + which is the blk/yellow wire, check ignition switch for power and main relay
